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Camshaft Oil Seal replacement - 2.0 HDi

I'm part way through a timing belt replacement and think the Camshaft oil seal may need to be replaced. I have two procedures, one in the Haynes Manual and one is a set of DW10TD procedures downloaded from a link on the forum, a bunch of .mht files.

The Haynes manual mentions removing the locking pins once the timing belt is off and turning the crank anti-clockwise 90deg to avoid any piston/valve interaction whilst trying to undo the camshaft sprocket bolt. My fear is that if the camshaft sprocket isn't keyed like the crankshaft sprocket that it'll be hit or miss getting it back on in exactly the correct position.

Also, do I just have to make sure the timing holes line up again after? I accept that if I were to back the crank off 90deg that it should be simple enough to get the timing bolt back in the correct place, so I'm more worried about the camshaft at this point. Do I definitely need to remove the camshaft locking pin whilst undoing the camshaft bolt?

I'm really aprehensive about removing both the locking pins as whilst reading the procedure for changing the timing belt it says over and over to never move the crank whilst the locking pins are out and never to rotate the engine backwards and then that all goes out of the window for removing the camshaft oil seal. Also, the .mht guide mentions about adjusting the camshaft position sensor but is this really necessary as haynes doesn't mention it and I don't have a set of feeler gauges.

Really stressing out here as it was only supposed to be a 'simple' timing belt + water pump change!!!

Really appreciate any help.


The other baffling thing is that the Haynes mentions about smearing oil on the new seal and the other set of instructions says in big, coloured, scary writing "CAUTION: Do not oil the surface of the new seal".

The cam shaft sprocket is keyed, I tend I remove the cam sprocket bolt with the eight mm pin in it, remove the sprocket, remove seal, replace seal and replace camshaft sprocket, nip the bolt in the gear up by finger which is plenty enough to allow you to then pin it and torque the sprocket up again, I've done this a hundred times, and have never damaged any engine ever...

And oil won't hurt the seal, it's made of oil resistant rubber... A smear of grease/oil will help it slide on easier, on both the inner and outer of the seal
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to dumdum for this post:
  • cha1n
Thank you so much.

Are you certain the cam sprocket is keyed? Remember that mine is the 2.0 HDI, I only have a single bolt on the sprocket, no three additional bolts like on the 1.9D. So basically, there's no way I can put it back on in the wrong orientation? I read somewhere that they weren't keyed and that's why torquing them to spec was so important as they were the only thing keeping the timing.

How about oiling the seal? I can't really see why not because it's an oil seal but perhaps there's a valid reason. Have you ever had to adjust the cam sensor after?

I'll be so happy if it is keyed as it means I can get this sorted easily tomorrow.

I've just had a check and I think I can see a key running down the camshaft where it enters the sprocket. Pretty excited, I ran back into the house singing "I've got the key, I've got the secret",

Thanks, do you usually back the crank off or do you leave it at TDC?
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to cha1n for this post:
  • geoff
Right. I've found a photo of a RHY (my engine code) cam sprocket on ebay and am pleased to see that it is keyed! Happy days, will be sorting this out tomorrow.

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
100% it's keyed Smile glad ya got it sorted! Smile
Replaced this seal today, I pretty much HAD to tighten the camshaft sprocket against the locking pin (an 8mm bolt). Initially I used a garden hoe as a camshaft sprocket holding tool to prevent the cam sprocket moving whilst tightening but when I put the new belt on and tightened the tensioner, the belt tension was moving the sprocket anti-clockwise about 0.5-1mm and jamming the locking pin hard against the side of the sprocket making the pin impossible to remove (probably would have still came out if it had been a smooth pin, instead of a bolt with a thread that bites a bit).

Therefore, I had to take the belt off again, unlock the flywheel (so I could back the crank off 90 degrees) and then I could loosen the camshaft sprocket and tighten it against the locking pin (clockwise). That meant that when everything was back together with the belt on, that the belt tension pulling the cog 0.5-1mm anti-clockwise left the locking hole nice and central and the pin cam out easily. Should have just followed your advice initially and tightened it against the locking pin but thought it must be frowned upon for a reason!

I'll add my last point to this post (and my timing belt post as it's urgent), can anyone confirm some things now I've replaced my belt.

- Will the corresponding tipex marks I made on the sprockets and timing belt ever align again?

I was cranking the engine over by the crank pulley bolt and I occasionally encountered resistance (almost a sponginess where the cogs would spin backwards a bit if I stopped cranking), followed by the crank spinning very easily for a second. I had horrible visions of pistons hitting valves and then springing back but is this actually the engine compression? I never felt it when I lined the timing holes up on the old timing belt.

With each complete revolution of the camshaft sprocket the timing holes line up perfectly but the tipex marks on the belt change position every time. This got my scared that maybe stuff was out of synch but I rotated the camshaft 4 times and the timing holes line up every time.
Yes that's compression bud, it's all good, as for tippexing the belt, that'll never work unless you rotate the engine 14,056 times to get the marks back to the same place (that's a guess by the way and in no way real lol) as long as the pins line up again your onto a winner, if the valves ever hit pistons you'll know with a solid clunk, you'd have to be really really ham fisted to bend a valve by hand, well done, job well done! Smile

Reading it, you marked the belt against the pulleys, you mark the pulleys against the block/head so there's no point marking the pulleys unless you want a quick reference when you have pins to insert, I often put a dot on the crank pulley to a known point/dot on the block so I know where to stop roughly for the crank pin but that's it
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to dumdum for this post:
  • cha1n
Thanks, that's a relief!

I've got the bottom, flywheel cover off with a tipex mark on one of the teeth and one on the casing so I know everything is lined up. I get the mrs to tell me when the locking hole in the cam sprocket is at 6pm, then flow down and wait for the flywheel marks to line up.

OK, well it's just the tension to get right now and hope I can get the crank pulley bolt on tight enough. Ha, this makes the engine mount replacement job I was stressing out about last week feel like a walk in the park.

Thanks for all the help with this mate.

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