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Drivers seat repair M49
I had the problem of the seat squab foam being cut throurgh by the seat frame which eventually made a hole in the cover.
I contacted the main stealer and was quoted approx £50 for the foam base and & £160 for the cover!! (that was 2 to 3 years ago).
The good bit of info from the dealer was only one part number was listed so they must be the same for L/H and R/H and the same for the seat squab cover.
This is where I had some luck, i was buying some parts for my sons car of a breaker on evil bay and I noticed he had a silver lingo being broken and the interior matched, long story short I had a usable matching passenger seat for £20.
Tools required
various sizes of torx bits.
two pairs of flat nose pliers.
A small flat file.
I had first remove the foam from my s/hand seat and I was in luck it was ok (I think most passenger seat get less than 50% of the use of drivers seats).
Disconnect the battery
Disconnect the plug under the seat for the seatbelt cartridge
Remove the drivers seat, 4 torx head bolts 1 at the end of each seat rail (you can slide the seat either way to make them easier to get at) then remove the seat, this can be done by one person but two would easier.
I then retired to the living room complete with seat (dodgy grounnd with she who must be obeyed)
Remove the headrest (push in the adjuster clip & pull out)
Remove the seat back adjuster (prise off the cover & a torx screw)
Remove the plastic side plates ( a couple of torx screws) and turn the seat over ( I had left it mid reclined).
Now you will see that the front of the cover is secured with 4or5 trianglular wire clips (I have ben told sometimes these are round like split rings still doable but more fiddley)
using two pairs of pliers gently pull these apart and set aside for later the front of the cover is now free, there are two elastic loops attached to the back rest cover simply unhook these from the seat spings? (wavy bit of wire) and pull the bottom of the back rest cover out of the way.
remove the securing clips at the back the same way as the front.
Either side of the seat frame there is a bar welded to it, the seat cover is attached to this by means of a plastic strips which fold up inside the cover and under the bar which then slots into a semi keyhole type cutout on the rear of the plastic strip (the foam keeps this tensioned) if yours is aleady split the strip on that side is usually off anyway.
Thre may a cople of the wire clips to remove from the middle of the foam (this was two years ago and I cant recall?)
Now the cover can be removed, and be prepared to hoover up all the crumbly foam that falls out all over the place before she sees it!
On checking the seat base the L/H metal pressing is so jagged it is almost dangerous (some quality control) so I filed this down and then smoothed it further with fine wet and dry and did the same on the R/H side though it was nowhere near as bad.
at this stage you could reassemble with the new foam, but I thought this will still happen again even with the sharp edges removed. Somthing is needed to cover the edges of the seat frame where the foam sits perhaps some thin high density foam or a felt like material, I found what I was looking for in a charity shop a thin leather bomber jacket £7 bargain ! even a false leather jacket (wasnt that a film?) will do.
I cut strips from the back and glued these to the seat frame along either side and folded the edges under to leave no metal edge uncovered.
I looked at my secondhand foam and I noticed that it was starting to show signs of wear & tear in the same areas so I glued two strips from the jacket along the channels in the foam where it touch's the seat frame. I used a UHU contact adhesive from the local shop (Warning try it on the old seat foam first some contact glues will melt foam) and as they say in the haynes manual to refit every thing simply reverse this proceedure.
To refit the wire clips just place them round the spings where they were fitted and place one end throught the original hole in the cover and gently squeeze them back together with a pair of pliers. It is not really a hard job, I just wish that I had'nt put it off untill I got a hole in the cover:brickwall: If you are looking at a secondhand lingo if you push down on the L,side of the seat when you are sitting on it just by your left buttock and you can feel the seat frame the foam has gone, A good bargaining point!
Hope This helpful
PS. sorry it was so wordy but with no pictures I wanted to make sure I got everything accross. this was 2/3 years 50,000 mile ago & still holding up fine.
[-] The following 4 users say Thank You to Husqyman for this post:
  • andy-womble, Coco, Ol'Jeffers, Trevor
Great write up.
great discripion on the job. there are 3 more plastic clips that go across the front seam as well as the 3 on either side seams.
i couldnt find a replacment foam so i added a layer of 1.5 inch foam over my old one which i stuck with spray carpet glue,and trimed it back on the sides. i did have hell of a job getting the seam clips over the bars, but got there in the is now lots better,very glad about that as it was killing my butt.

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