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Gearbox/clutch noise
#1
Hi to all,
i have been thinking about this problem for a few days and still can't narrow it down so here are the symptoms and lets see what you know!
W reg 1.9 dw8 van 160k goes great since egr cleanout, clutch slipping very slightly in high gear was about to be changed, after 100mile round trip in serious rain with no dramas, next morning started off and immediately heard grinding like wheel bearing,noise getting slightly louder when cornering to right and slightly oscillating at 30mph +, noise does not change when clutch is dipped and clutch still functioning perfectly(still slipping in high gear if driven hard).
1st assumed Ns wheel bearing so changed, took hub off myself and got garage to push out and in new bearing all put back together. Noise the same, suspected as much as bearing felt ok by hand,
so could this be gearbox or final drive or maybe clutch.
Question: what order to tackle this, check gearbox oil first perhaps or change clutch and see what arises?
If i need gearbox it might have to go.
to be replaced with another blingo of course!
Any ideas gratefully received.
'If You're Not Living On The Edge, You're Taking Up Too Much Room.'
Founder Member: The Bad Parent Club!
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#2
Is it an MA series gearbox? They can be a little fraught if front bearing failure is overlooked.
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#3
Thanks for the interest addo, not sure what box or how i would find out, can i find out via vin number, if so i'm sure some one here will be able to help me out
'If You're Not Living On The Edge, You're Taking Up Too Much Room.'
Founder Member: The Bad Parent Club!
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#4
How many bolts on the nearside "tin hat" end cover? That's a good start to ID.
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#5
update,
pulled gearbox to replace clutch, clutch seems fine but thrust bearing and input shaft sleeve bone dry and looks like it is well worn, gonna replace clutch and sleeve and seals. have not figured out how to remove clutch fork arm yet, so cant remove sleeve yet, any one know how?
still in shock from cost of 2 seals from main dealer, over £30+vat got em on mebay for £10.45 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130824373589?s...1423.l2649
think i will change other wheel bearing as well rather than have this lot off again. i hope the gearbox is ok as no metal or such in oil, fingers crossed.
'If You're Not Living On The Edge, You're Taking Up Too Much Room.'
Founder Member: The Bad Parent Club!
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#6
Try knocking out the pin holding the cable arm to the fork pivot, then remove upper and lower pivot bushes.
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#7
Thanks for the reply,I looked at pin it is threaded right up to lever arm but there is no flats or allen/ torx recess to turn it with or does it knock out towards thread?
'If You're Not Living On The Edge, You're Taking Up Too Much Room.'
Founder Member: The Bad Parent Club!
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#8
I double checked before responding, there are only two variants of the cable hook pin - one for the MA series boxes which is the plain rollpin 32mm long, and the BE series boxes with a threaded end to a 51mm long pin.

I'd suggest using a brass drift to send the threaded end back through; it quite possibly has a fine taper on the pin.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to addo for this post:
  • terryd999
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#9
If it is threaded one end it is quite likely to be a taper pin. The threaded end is the smallest end of the taper and usually there is a nut fitted to keep the taper pin in place - uGWP .
Typically the nut is slacked back flush with the end of the thread and the nut is struck firmly to free the pin off.
Disclaimer ... too wet to go outside and look in the flesh.
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#10
Thanks to addo and geoff for the answer to this one, have now got pin out but destroyed threaded end in doing so and the arm is still unmoveable. nylon bearings for fork are shot so gonna bite bullet and replace fork, bearings and pin which means i can cut the fork shaft to get it out.

Start the New Year with problems and it can only get better!
'If You're Not Living On The Edge, You're Taking Up Too Much Room.'
Founder Member: The Bad Parent Club!
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