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Glow plugs (again) need more details
#1
Hello knowledgeable berlingo members,

I have, as many others, the P1351 permanent error. PP2000 (Lexia equivalent reports: pre/post heating relay circuit relay controlled and spark plugs not supplied; Pre-heat relay control - parameter unknown; Preheating relay status - Active.
Car starts and runs fine, but of course it is a bit on the warmer side these days. Have searched the forum, but could not find more detailed information. My car is not a berlingo, but peugeot partner 07reg 1.6hdi (MK2, 9HX engine), but not much of difference I suppose.

Was thinking of having a look tomorrow, e.g. test glow plugs, relay, cables, etc.
Most likely the glow plugs, but will test them.

My questions are:
What are the pitfalls when replacing glow plugs. Have read that they are easy to break or the tip is easy to break. If they break, how would I get them out of the pre-chamber? There was something that you push them in and start the engine and see them fly like bullets. I really would like to avoid that!

My most important question is what torque (i.e. Nm) should I use when screwing them back in. Managed to find some information from Bosch that it is 10Nm in and 8Nm out, but is this correct.

Can I gain access by only removing the air ducts/pipes/MAF and air filter?

When testing the ohms on the glow plugs with a multimeter, where on the engine block to get contact. Is it anywhere on the engine block or it has to be close or somewhere specific.

Any help would be more than appreciated and I mean it. Maybe I am a bit paranoid.
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#2
Changed lots of glow plugs and never broke or heard of them breaking unless you're referring to the really old type that had a large springcoil looking element at the end. The modern ones are encased in a metal sleeve which protects the element. Some of them heat up in a second while older type take a little longer. There is always a first time I suppose for someone to manage to break them, you are maybe getting confused with spark plugs.

The biggest danger is cross threading them when fitting especially when restricted space like the xud 1.9d.and dropping the little nuts and washers.

For what has to be removed I don't know as I do not have a 1.6hdi

I think Bosch would recommend that torque as they know what their doing.

Use the engine block as a earth for the multimeter , its good enough for the glow plugs to earth through. To be certain use the neg. terminal on the battery.

As it starts and runs fine why bother, unless its for your peace of mind.?
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to brodfather11 for this post:
  • saskak
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#3
(05-07-2013, 05:23 PM)brodfather11 Wrote:  Changed lots of glow plugs and never broke or heard of them breaking unless you're referring to the really old type that had a large springcoil looking element at the end. The modern ones are encased in a metal sleeve which protects the element. Some of them heat up in a second while older type take a little longer. There is always a first time I suppose for someone to manage to break them, you are maybe getting confused with spark plugs.

The biggest danger is cross threading them when fitting especially when restricted space like the xud 1.9d.and dropping the little nuts and washers.

For what has to be removed I don't know as I do not have a 1.6hdi

I think Bosch would recommend that torque as they know what their doing.

Use the engine block as a earth for the multimeter , its good enough for the glow plugs to earth through. To be certain use the neg. terminal on the battery.

As it starts and runs fine why bother, unless its for your peace of mind.?

Many thanks really for the reply brodfather11.

It is more for a peace of mind really. The error has appeared in the last ~600 miles, but the weather is rather warm for the glow plugs to be on. I suspect if it gets below 0C it might struggle to start.

As for breaking the tips, it is just from other forums, something about carbon build up and not managing to get out cleanly from a conical shaft in the pre chamber, hence breaking.

THanks again, will see tomorrow if they are to blame for the error.
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#4
Would use a basic test light (non Led) to check individual glow plugs to live and if any open circuit then replace all 4
if you want to go all the way I suppose you could remove all 4 and test them with feed at both ends and watch them glow
but to be fair open circuit test with a test light is usally enough
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to mindwipe for this post:
  • saskak
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#5
(05-07-2013, 09:18 PM)mindwipe Wrote:  Would use a basic test light (non Led) to check individual glow plugs to live and if any open circuit then replace all 4
if you want to go all the way I suppose you could remove all 4 and test them with feed at both ends and watch them glow
but to be fair open circuit test with a test light is usally enough

I have a multimeter, so would test the resistance (ohms) between the tip and engine block. Read that it should be ~1ohm to be good.
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#6
Resistance as has been said before
is often futile
its ok in electronics world
but in car world we are looking at current draw and voltage drop
best option is to use a bulb and a wire and connect to live (battery) and then to glow plug(centre electrode)
and if unsure remove and test them all with a pair of jump leads or a boost pack

hopefully we can put this fault to bed yes? :-)
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to mindwipe for this post:
  • Ol'Jeffers, saskak
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#7
(05-07-2013, 09:34 PM)mindwipe Wrote:  Resistance as has been said before
is often futile
its ok in electronics world
but in car world we are looking at current draw and voltage drop
best option is to use a bulb and a wire and connect to live (battery) and then to glow plug(centre electrode)
and if unsure remove and test them all with a pair of jump leads or a boost pack

hopefully we can put this fault to bed yes? :-)

Sounds good to me. I can also use the voltmeter on my multimeter, so all good. Have a battery boost pack, so could glow test them as well.

Many thanks again.
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