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How To Change Cambelt 1.6 HDI 92
#1
Photo 
Going to tackle it Tomorrow if its not raining, I thought I would try and document it so here goes
Part 1
Some new tools Rolleyes I don't need much of an excuse

Sealey Diesel Engine Setting/Locking Tool Set £12.67 (ebay)
[Image: DSCF0102.jpg]

Draper Expert 21932 40-Piece Tx-Star, Hex and XZN Bit Set £20.99 (Amazon)
[Image: DSCF0103.jpg]

DAYCO TIMING BELT KIT CITROEN BERLINGO 1.6 HDI 16V CAM £70.99 + P&P (Ebay)

[Image: DSCF0101.jpg]

[Image: DSCF0104.jpg]

http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff37...CF0108.jpg
Will report as soon as its done. Jamie.
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#2
Nice pics, Are the tools in the first photo a set of precision drifts for smashing off the gears for the drive belt????SmileSmileSmileBig GrinBig Grin
Berlingo Multispace 2.0HDI '54 reg Mediterranean Blue
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#3
This is greatly appreciated jimbo, and we look forward to the results...
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#4
Yes, joking apart, appreciated mate.

Used to be like you, any excuse for buying a new tool or gadget.
Don't make the mistake of lending them out, you never get them back!!!

When you've finished, can I borrow your locking/alignment kit for cam-belt replacementSmileTongueSmileTongueSmileSmileTongue
Berlingo Multispace 2.0HDI '54 reg Mediterranean Blue
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#5
The locking kit was a bit of an extravagance and of course any members that want too can borrow it
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#6
Thanks jimbo, only joking with you !!!!

Hope you got the job done ok today???
Berlingo Multispace 2.0HDI '54 reg Mediterranean Blue
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#7
I guessed you where, all done no great problems took a lot longer then it should have because of the lack of clearance between the engine and the wing I could not use the ratchet so had to do it the slow way 1/4 turn at a time and had fun getting the engine mount re attached to the block as I had to hold all four bolts in from below while turning it into position it caused some swearing and all I can do is apologise to any French men that where within ear shot.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to jimbo for this post:
  • ron
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#8
(22-01-2011, 06:49 PM)jimbo Wrote:  it caused some swearing and all I can do is apologise to any French men that where within ear shot.

I am sure they would rather hear that than be deaf !!!Big GrinBig GrinBig GrinBig Grin

A good blast of basic Anglo-Saxon never did anyone any harm....

Berlingo Multispace 2.0HDI '54 reg Mediterranean Blue
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#9
Part 2
1-Loosen engine mounting top bolts T50 (Torx / Star) x3
[Image: enginemount.jpg]
http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff37...emount.jpg
2-Jack up right hand front side of car and place on axel stand
3-Remove front right road wheel
4-Remove engine cover from inside wheel arch
[Image: Removecover.jpg]
5-Remove tension from auxiliary belt and slip off of crank pulley
6- Undo Crank Bolt 18mm (I used my 12v impact wrench you may have to lock the flywheel or have the car in gear and someone to apply the foot brake)
[Image: pulleyandbolt.jpg]
7- Remove the crank pulley and refit the crank bolt
8- support the engine on a hydrolic jack
[Image: DSCF3519.jpg]
9-Remove the engine mount top bolts T50 completely
10- Remove the engine mount side bolts x4
[Image: DSCF3540.jpg]
11- Remove engine mount from block
12- Remove 7mm bolts/screws from top cam cover detach wires and pipes from cover and remove cover
13- Remove 7mm bolts/screws from bottom cover detach sensor wire from bottom cover and remove cover, remove the position sensor and the cam belt protector and have a cup of tea
[Image: pulleyremoved.jpg]
14-Ensure the ignition is off use 18mm socket to rotate crank CLOCKWISE until the timing hole is lined up at 12.00 position and peg with pin from locking kit ,check cam alignment hole and peg it with pin from locking kit check diesel pump alignment hole and peg it with pin from the kit .If the holes do not align as per photos you will have to rotate crank through 360” and try again remember always turn the crank in a clockwise direction.
[Image: DSCF3537.jpg]
[Image: CrankLocked.jpg]
[Image: CamLocked.jpg]
[Image: PumplockedBelow.jpg]

Part 3
[Image: camProtector.jpg]
[Image: Tensioner.jpg]
15- Only when you are happy that the crank cam and pump are locked properly you can undo the cam belt tensioner 13mm bolt and remove the tensioner undo the 16mm nut on the idler pulley and remove ,Remove the old cam belt
[Image: oldandnew.jpg]
[Image: oldandnew2.jpg]
[Image: DSCF3535.jpg]
16- Refit the idler pulley I used loctite on 16mm nut threads but it is up to you
17- Fit the new belt keeping it tight between the crank pulley and the cam pulley and then tight between the cam pulley and the diesel pump if it is slack between either of these you have gone wrong there must be no slack.
18-Refit the tensioner do not worry about it fitting over the peg untill you have a few turns un its 13mm bolt double check the belt tension between the crank cam and pump (should not be slack) put fork of tensioner over the peg and tighten the 13mm bolt but not too tight remove the tensioner locking bar and adjust the tension with a 6mm hexagonal drive anticlockwise until the pointer moves into position (you may need a torch) when in position tighten the tensioners 13mm bolt .
[Image: DSCF3538.jpg]
[Image: fitted.jpg]
19- Rotate the engine six times CLOCKWISE and then check all three alignment holes with the pegs if OK check the tensioner tension pointer is still pointing in the middle of the marks if not re adjust tension and try again
20-Refit the position sensor and cam belt protector .At this point I decided to check the engine would start if you do the same make sure it is supported well and that there are no wires or pipes near the cam belt
21-Refit the lower cam belt cover
22- Refit the engine mount with its side bolts
23-Refit the upper cam belt cover
24- Insert and tighten the four T50 torx top engine mount bolts ( you may have to raise or lower the engine)
25-Remove the crank pulley bolt refit the pulley and refit the bolt I used loctite and I had to get Zena to apply the foot brake while in gear so I could tighten it.
26 use a spanner on the auxiliary belt tensioner to remove tension and refit the auxiliary belt
27- Refit the engine cover inside the wheel arch
28-Refit the Road wheel
29-remove axel stand lower car and tighten the road wheel bolts
Note it is really tight between the engine and the wing so be prepared for a struggle a 7mm socket and short extension is essential for removing the cover and allow plenty of time.
I hope someone will find this useful if anyone finds any errors please let me know and I will ammend.
this information is offered as a guide only I except no responsibility for any errors
regards Jamie
[-] The following 9 users say Thank You to jimbo for this post:
  • Argos69, brianthegas, CandR, NjG, Ol'Jeffers, ron, Row, terryb, TonyW
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#10
Top post jimbo, thanks a lot for the effort. Good read too.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Andre for this post:
  • Ol'Jeffers
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