I'm a newbie

[brotherbrush]

Hey

Just joined today. I have an '06 1.9D. Having problems with the brakes. Replaced discs, pads and calipers (needed doing anyway) to try to solve brakes binding intermittently. Sadly brakes still bind (still intermittently) and the front wheels are getting very warm, not quite too hot to touch. Found a thread on here that suggested it's the master cylinder that's the most likely problem although my local mechanic suggested changing the pipes first which is what I'm going to do next, before doing the master cylinder. He suggested that changing the master cylinder may introduce servo issues which I really don't want to have to deal with on a ten year van!

Looking forward to your feedback.

Brotherbrush
(yes I use the van for my painting and decorating business! )

[Jed Clampit]

Hello brotherbrush welcome to the forum  hope you get it sorted make sure the load sensor on the rear brakes  is fully open when bleeding the brakes and the rear axle up in the air or you will get air trapped in the rear brake pipe .

[ron]

Hi & welcome.Your problem may be the front flex hoses breaking up internally.They are not expensive or difficult to replace.

[brotherbrush]

Hello brotherbrush welcome to the forum  hope you get it sorted make sure the load sensor on the rear brakes  is fully open when bleeding the brakes and the rear axle up in the air or you will get air trapped in the rear brake pipe .

Many thanks for your welcome and advice Jed. I've just learned about the load sensor this week - didn't know I had one or what it was! Will be checking what you suggest this weekend, along with a far more mechanically minded friend. Many thanks. I've also changed the front hoses to no avail. Brakes still binding.

[brotherbrush]

Hi & welcome.Your problem may be the front flex hoses breaking up internally.They are not expensive or difficult to replace.

Hi Ron
Many thanks for your suggestion. I have changed the hoses as it was a suggestion from someone else too. Sadly no change.   Also been informed about the load balancing sensor, by Jed on the forum. Hopefully I'll find that in the Haynes manual? I'm wondering if it's the bolts in the brake pad mounting assembly? Although these were throughly cleaned and greased and had new rubber sleeves.

Might it be better to change the master cylinder?

[ron]

Hi & welcome.Your problem may be the front flex hoses breaking up internally.They are not expensive or difficult to replace.

Hi Ron
Many thanks for your suggestion. I have changed the hoses as it was a suggestion from someone else too. Sadly no change.   Also been informed about the load balancing sensor, by Jed on the forum. Hopefully I'll find that in the Haynes manual? I'm wondering if it's the bolts in the brake pad mounting assembly? Although these were throughly cleaned and greased and had new rubber sleeves.

Might it be better to change the master cylinder?

If the calliper slide on the pins easily by hand pressure (pads out),then they're OK.

[brotherbrush]

Hi & welcome.Your problem may be the front flex hoses breaking up internally.They are not expensive or difficult to replace.

Hi Ron
Many thanks for your suggestion. I have changed the hoses as it was a suggestion from someone else too. Sadly no change.   Also been informed about the load balancing sensor, by Jed on the forum. Hopefully I'll find that in the Haynes manual? I'm wondering if it's the bolts in the brake pad mounting assembly? Although these were throughly cleaned and greased and had new rubber sleeves.

Might it be better to change the master cylinder?

If the calliper slide on the pins easily by hand pressure (pads out),then they're OK.

Many thanks for your reply Ron, yeah, they slide nice and easy. Can't be the pins then. I've found out about the load balancing sensor (pressure regulating valve in the Haynes manual I guess) from other pages on the forum and I've found a description of it in the Haynes manual but the Haynes manual also says that they're not fitted to later models with ABS. Does that mean ALL models with ABS or just later models with ABS, if so how late? Any ideas how I'd find out? Mine's a 2006.

[geoff]

Having or not having ABS is straight forward to check out.

1/ You've seen the load valve in Haynes - take a look under the rear axle and see if you have one fitted. It should be easy to spot even without jacking up the rear.
2/ Look at a front drive shaft especially the CV joint closest to the wheel - if you have ABS there will be a castellated ring fitted around it, the sensor picks up each " tooth " as it passes by.
3/ Slightly harder - look behind a wheel for a wire leading to the stub axle, at the end of the wire should be a sensor clamped to the stub axle. Not to be confused with a wire leading to the brake pads wear sensor if fitted.

Can I point out that with ABS models you should pressure bleed the system after working on / breaking into the integrity of the hydraulic circuit. The older method of pressing the pedal and opening closing the bleed nipple is not applicable !

Changing more parts ? Before going further try giving the system a good and generous flush through with new fluid. May sound daft but fresh fluid may help. I had a niggling ABS " light on " issue some while back that couldn't be diagnosed ( even by Citroen ) and this worked for me - had a noticeable improvement so repeated the procedure and had a full cure.
Perhaps fingers crossed but easier and cheaper than major work and spending, easier if you can do it yourself.

[brotherbrush]

Geoff, many thanks for taking the time for such a detailed response, much appreciated. Especially on the bleeding point. Yes, we have only done the pedal pushing way as the pressure kit we have wouldn't keep a tight seal on the reservoir (might wrapping PTFE tape around the thread help? Just a random thought). Also, I'll look for the ABS tell-tales as soon as possible. Good point on completely new fluid, another friend suggested that too. Will post back with news after next weekend!

[geoff]

I assume you didn't have too high a pressure feeding the reservoir ?

PTFE is a good idea,have you seen the " gas " ptfe tape ? Used by gas fitters and thicker than the normal stuff - buy it in B&Q etc - and might suit you better. When you wind it on the reservoir wind it on " clockwise " and leave some to hang over the top to help the seal there too.

I find some pressure bleeders make the kit reservoir fluid fill with bubbles when you disconnect so make sure you don't use the bubbled fluid !!!!!!!!! Use new fluid each time you connect up !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!