New to berlingos and diesle

[Col]

No. I'm self employed. What do you manufacture?

[steve johnson]

Hello again fellas....Hope you are all keeping well......I deciced to have a little rest from the van while the weather was a little damper than normal for this time of year...was an interesting read catching up on this thread..although I must admit it all went over my old head,
Well old smokie is back...and running a little rough on start up along with quite a bit of smoke...so I decided to start taking the rocker covers off...no problem getting down to them once I had located the fastenings...one was chewed up so I tapped in a larger Torx bit...I know they are Hex..but this bolt was chewed up...and out it came....the inside of the air ducts/manifold is covered in oily gunge...right down to the intake manifold...the egr valve is coated the same.....the black rocker cover wasnt even fastened down properly as the screws came out without any kind of effort at all and the gasket looks very compressed....I took out the bolts on the lower cover and expected to have to gently persuade it off...it just lifted off....the sealant was virtually non existant...I could clean it off with my finger....that is obviously where the leak is from..this I suspected from the off...I went inside had a brew and thought "Blow it"...lets get the valves sorted..stop this smoking...ha ha...then I read the manual to get familiar with the way to go....I nearly fell off the stool when I read "use an engine hoist to take the weight of the engine whilst undoing the engine mountings"...please tell me I dont have to do all this to get at the valves etc...it sounds insane...ha ha...I know there are short cuts to all sorts of jobs on a car/van...please tell me you guys know of the ones for this job...even trying to get the timing belt covers off yesterdat stumped me..untill I read the manual...again..engine hoist...I may as well take the engine out.....oh the joys of not having a clue about these little beauties...any tips please chaps..also what would you suggest I clean the oily gunge with from the air intakes....I think I shall throw away the Haynes as it nearly gives me a heart attack every time I open it....I shall not be beaten ...I hope,
Regards,
Steve

[geoff]

Hi Steve, no need for an engine hoist just use a trolley jack under the sump and raise the engine up and down as required to gain the relevant access, you may need to have a wooden support under the sump ( I have a large 4x4 type jack with a big cup so no need in my case ). Obviously you support the engine before undoing the timing side engine mount.

Have a piece of paper and as you remove the belt cover bolts make a drawing of relative location and size, draw also the route of the auxiliary belt even if you have a good memory ! Draw the cam belt route also.

Steady as she goes take your time and rethink if needed, this job is straightforward but is protracted so if it is difficult you may be doing it wrong or simply be getting tired / stressed, a cuppa and an episode of Judge Judy helps.

Locking pins can be drill bits shortened to the length needed, use the clean shank as the tool and not the fluted area !

Without digging out my stuff it is 8 mm for crank and 6 mm for fuel pump, put a radius on the top of the drill as this will act as a lead into the receiving hole and will save you a LOT of time.

The camshaft pulley needs an 8 mm bolt of sufficient length and for greater accuracy with a plain portion by the head, the threaded part enters the head so go in deep enough ! and the shank locates the camshaft pulley.

Use a flywheel locking tool and don't rely on the locking pins when undoing the crank pulley bolt, see my earlier link. Don't rely on the cam pulley locker as you WILL damage the head ( I'm saying the obvious of course but people do silly things ).

Cannot remember what is needed for your engine in terms of cam pulley locking tool, it is easily made but come back if help needed.

I'd say that for the first time you should do the job in small bites and when you finally get the camshaft out stop and have a break to get a fresh brain.

By the way the cam bearing caps are handed and their position and orientation should be maintained !!!!!! Mark them carefully ie with a scriber. Ensure that each bucket goes back into the same position !!!

So when you remove the cam make a note ( on paper ) which way the lobe next to the pulley is pointing so that the cam goes back in the same orientation, much simpler that way !

Anyway that'll do for now but don't forget to take the valve clearances for each cylinder BEFORE removing the cambelt and stripping down any further. I do this by using a socket on the crank pulley nut and rotating ( clockwise in engine direction ! ) until each lobe is at 90 * to the cam bucket, note that the bucket leans backwards so the lobe will point backwards. Measure each clearance twice and on separate rotations in case of error.

I find it easier to remove the glow plugs to ease the compression for smoother rotation, you could take the opportunity to directly connect each one to a battery to see if they glow but don't blame me if you get burnt - red hot !

Catch you later,

Geoff.

[geoff]

Clean all the inlet ductings,petrol or diesel will suffice similarly with the EGR. You have an older model so on reassembly put the EGR back in place but remove and blank off / plug the two vacuum lines. This will cause you no issues, don't strip down the stainless pipe back to the manifold and try and put a blanking plate in as there is no need for this and it is likely to cause you problems with sheared bolts / stripped threads.

You can reuse the clamp for the EGR pipe.

[steve johnson]

Thank you very much Geoff...I remember your locking tool and have a mate making one for me..he is a steel fabricator and will make anything that I need (favours returned and all that)...I remembered what you said about the EGR clip so took it off as you recomended..came off a treat...Im going to renew the glow plugs as a matter of course regardless..they are cheap enough...I wont be doing the job at a rush...one day at a time for as long as it may take as I want to do it right the first time...fingers crossed...My big jack is a garage style with a large rubber covered cup but will still make a supporting frame for stability and to protect the sump as its on an angle...its a 3 ton one..my other 2 are both 2 ton but with small cups...I am so glad that no hoist is needed...I am certain that I can handle this job if I take my time as you suggest fairly confidently...I will give updates as things proceed..and ask the much appreciated advice if Im not certain of anything,....once again thank you very much for your help and advice Geoff,
regards,
ps...just to clarify...the head needs to come off to renew the valve stem oil seals...plus I forgot to put antifreeze in when I sorted the coolant leak...there is non in at all...now that I have a partial strip down in progress can I just add it by removing the thermostat and pour it into the block..refit thermostat then refill the radiator/expansion tank...or just drain it and leave it...water pump will be renewed as suggested earlier in the thread...but Im not bothered about losing the coolant...what a silly mistake...Im claiming old age for this one...ha ha
cheers,
Steve
Steve..

[steve johnson]

Not done much to "Old Smokie"...been helping a chap put a new clutch in his Renault van and change the driveshafts...got very wet and cold...anyhow I went no further than my last post as I wanted to get antifreeze in the engine...so I put it all back together and found that the loose bolts were actually stripped in the rocker cover...so new cover is being bought....I didnt find any vac hoses connected to the egr..only what looked like a breather hose...there is a small pipe under the egr that had nothing connected to it at all...I red a thread on here about the blanking off etc and a "Butterfly" was mentioned...I couldnt see that either...just a thin bar inside the egr..it fired up fine..no issues regarding that...I flushed the engine and radiator with a hose untill clear water came ou...fastened everything up poured in the antifreeze got it circulating...bled the system...then noticed the antifreeze has gone to a rusty colour...so need to drop it and re-flush...Im going to put up with the smoke issue untill the weather changes...too cold for my old bones just now to be bending over an engine....still plenty to do on the old girl yet though to get her running nice ( suspension/ball joints etc)...just to keep my ocupied...will keep you chaps up to date on what Ive managed to do....;Regards,
Steve..