DW8 1.9 diesel.
I've noticed with the colder weather it is quite difficult to get OUT of gear when rolling until it warms up, when it is fine. Since it is OK when warmed up I think I can rule out clutch drag. Gearshift is easy when not rolling, so that tends to rule out linkages (which I've lubed anyway). I'm wondering if a previous owner has put the wrong gearbox oil in. Seems from other posts should be synthetic SAE75, not EP90.
Any advice on this?
I have only just now seen your post due to site problems.75/80 oil,synthetic recommended.Is the cable adjusted properly/auto adjuster working OK?
+1 on making sure you have the correct/fresh oil. My Land Rover is very particular.
Griff
Make shure you use the correct amount of oil 2 litres .
Thanks for advice. Turns out it was a combination of things which needed a bit of attention. The supposedly self-adjusting clutch cable wasn't for a start, so replaced that. The upper plastic bush on the actuator arm was worn and I think the play was confusing the self-adjuster because even with the new cable it wouldn't settle at any one engagement position. Found after taking the arm off that someone had tried to do a bodge repair on the bush with JB weld or suchlike and made a right mess. Cleaned it off with a soldering iron (best way to get epoxy off without damaging metal, just don't use a bit you intend to solder with afterwards!) and fitted new bush.
I also noted that the actuator boss was right down on the casing, probably because of wear on the base of the lower bush, which supports the rod vertically. Since the lower bush is much harder to change, I shimmed the actuator to about the right height with washers above the upper bush. (OK, also a bodge, but at least a decent one..)
That, and old tired G/B oil as was suggested.
Amazing difference to the way it drives, gearchanges are now smooth and precise.
Lower bush could really do with replacing too but that can wait for the summer as it involves taking the gearbox off. If I decide to do that I'll probably change the whole clutch anyway, no point in half measures.
(27-01-2015, 11:47 PM)IanR Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks for advice. Turns out it was a combination of things which needed a bit of attention. The supposedly self-adjusting clutch cable wasn't for a start, so replaced that. The upper plastic bush on the actuator arm was worn and I think the play was confusing the self-adjuster because even with the new cable it wouldn't settle at any one engagement position. Found after taking the arm off that someone had tried to do a bodge repair on the bush with JB weld or suchlike and made a right mess. Cleaned it off with a soldering iron (best way to get epoxy off without damaging metal, just don't use a bit you intend to solder with afterwards!) and fitted new bush.
I also noted that the actuator boss was right down on the casing, probably because of wear on the base of the lower bush, which supports the rod vertically. Since the lower bush is much harder to change, I shimmed the actuator to about the right height with washers above the upper bush. (OK, also a bodge, but at least a decent one..)
That, and old tired G/B oil as was suggested.
Amazing difference to the way it drives, gearchanges are now smooth and precise.
Lower bush could really do with replacing too but that can wait for the summer as it involves taking the gearbox off. If I decide to do that I'll probably change the whole clutch anyway, no point in half measures.
I agree with your changing the clutch.Do the job properly & you only do it once.
When you mention actuator boss, lower bush and rod are you referring to the gearchange linkage? Or, are you talking about the rod that goes through the clutch housing and has the clutch arm on the top end?
