26-07-2016, 08:35 PM
25-10-2016, 01:07 PM
(07-12-2015, 07:30 PM)Hi,I think you could be a life saver... Basically there\s liquid all in the foot well of the passenger side, when l put the blower on heat with the fans on no heat really comes out, just what looks like steam with a nasty smell... it doesnt demist the windows, infact it makes it a lot worse. Also when l turn the engine off an leave the vehicle, on my return usually my windows have then steamed up just above the heating air vents... the coolant also appears to be lowering in level in the engine bay, which is what could be leaking on to the foot well... Does this sound like it could be the heater matrix?Steve MissSpentYouth Wrote: [ -> ]Just changed the heater Matrix on my mothers Peugeot Partner multispace 2004 with A/C so thought I would share my findings here before I forget.
Firstly this is quite an involved job not for the feint hearted and wouldn’t recommend for a novice. No warranty implied or given for the following took me about 5 hours and I am quite speedy. I don’t believe any of these steps can be missed out in order to save time.
With the doors all closed ignition off and key removed disconnect the battery.
Remove the centre console and lift off over the handbrake and gear lever.
Remove the felt covers under the dash both sides, remove the glove box.
Remove large Torx screws at either ends of the dash in the door reveal
Remove the dash trim to the right of the steering wheel and with a 13mm socket on an extension remove the retaining bolt through the round cut out in the dash.
Remove the instrument cluster surround (just pulls off) and the instrument cluster held in with 1 screw at the top but a right fiddle to get out (and even worse to get back in) remove 2 x 10mm bolts under cluster
Remove completely the bolt that connects the steering column to the steering rack, scratch the column and rack with a mark to aid reconnection. Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the steering column on. Pull the steering wheel and rack up and out a few inches and then disconnect the various electrical connection to ignition, lights, indicators etc. Then remove column and steering wheel as a unit.
Remove A pillar trim pieces both sides, remove radio, poke some thin screw drivers or allen keys into the holes to free it off. There is a retaining screw in there sideways on that I missed that needs to be removed connects dash to heater box.
Remove various screws along bottom edge of dash. Remove 13mm bolt holding metal support bar to floor near gear lever, there are also some screws and bolts here low down and easy to miss right down at carpet level.
Remove windscreen wipers, remove plastic scuttle panel under two parts, remove rainwater collectors to either side. Remove wiper metal linkage various 10 mm bolts mark orientation of wiper arm linkage on top of motor support panel in park position prior to disconnection (its 3 O’Clock). Disconnect wiper motor from its support panel 3 x 10mm bolts and remove wiper support panel.
Remove 3 x 10mm bolts with a long reach socket from within wiper arm mechanism reveal these go through the firewall and hold top of dash, 1 is right behind the wiper motor and inaccessible without removing it above. Remove the two 13 mm bolts on the drivers side.
Push metal retaining clip to right between heater matrix feed pipes as they go through the firewall then wiggle pipes vigorously to disconnect, a small amount of coolant will come out. Mine was well stuck on. Remove the 2 x torx screws in the metal adaptor plate and lift off over matrix feed pipes, then remove rubber gasket in the same way.
Push seats right back and engage 2nd gear. You should now be able to pull the dash out towards you work one side and then the other feel for any screws you have missed. Once the dash come forward look behind and you will find the two dash speaker cables straining, the radio aerial and also a heater control cable. I made the mistake of disconnecting this at the heater box end and it took me 30 minutes to reconnect on reassembly complete pig, I would try the other end at the heater control know it must be easier. Free off straining cables and let dash rest up against gear lever.
This gives just enough room to get matrix out, or you could take dash out completely but there are lots of cables.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts going through firewall lower down than the others, if you have A/C then they are at the same height as those pipes. Now if you don’t have A/C you should now be able to pull the heater box forward and then fish out your heater matrix. If you have A/C then the pipes going through the firewall on the passenger side prevent this, however if you disconnect the matrix coolant pipes at the top of the matrix 2 x 10 or 8 mm bolts and pull the pipes off, then pulling forward on the heater box as much as you can you can just get the matrix out.
Clean out the bottom of the heater box as best you can were the old coolant has leaked out. If you have A/C then you will need to put new one in without its extension pipes fitted be careful not to damage the fins as you slide it back in, then fit extension pipes once in situ make sure rubber O rings fitted correctly *** don’t screw this up as you don’t want to do this job twice ***
Reassembly is the reverse of removal.
My new matrix extension pipes were slightly incompatible with the fitting on the hoses on the car and I had to modify the metal retaining clip in order for it to reach over the tab and lock in. Make sure you lubricate the rubber O rings with Vaseline or some kind of rubber grease so they fit back together snuggly. Make sure the metal retaining clip clips in correctly as you don’t want this union flying off on the motorway late at night ( I spent 30 minutes trying to get this clip fitting properly)
Pushing the dash back into position is a bit of a game secure the heater box first, then there is a loose bit of metal which holds the steering column that goes on next (the two 13mm bolts in the wiper linkage recess) however there is a large plastic vent pipe that feeds the driver’s side vent that goes through and around this so you have to fit this metal frame and dash together.
Make sure the radio aerial cable and dash speaker cables are all clipped in, and then you have the worst part of the job reconnecting that heater control cable, this took me 30 minutes upside down in the foot well. It must be easier doing it from the other end. *** You cannot reconnect this cable with the dash in place so don’t leave this till later ***
Once you are confident everything you disconnected is reconnected then push dash home and bolt back in, watch out for that driver’s side air vent pipe. Refit instrument cluster a bit of a fiddle and radio.
Refit steering column and electrical connectors **** Don’t forget to tighten up steering column to rack bolt *****
Top up coolant you don’t lose much.
With doors all closed and ignition key removed reconnect battery.
Check engine starts OK and everything works correctly electric windows, fan, lights, indicators, instrument cluster, radio, heater controls …. Basically everything apart from wipers.
Once your happy all OK continue fitting back all the bits and bobs take the car for a spin check the heater working correctly and top up coolant as required. Check for leaks, if the union between the matrix and the extension pipes is leaking please call Samaritans and stay away from long drops fast moving buses and sharp instruments L
Bit of a marathon took me 5 hours if I was to do it again probably 3 but to be honest won’t be putting my hand up for that again any time soon.
25-10-2016, 01:13 PM
PS mines a Peugeot Partner 06 plate, but ive read the Berlingo an Partner are very similar...
27-10-2016, 05:13 AM
Hi, thanks for your post. My Peugeot Partner had a matrix replacement using a genuine Valeo - though it done was by a mechanic in my absence -thanks to cheap labour this sides of the world. But a couple of things were not returned to their proper place well - Common problem too. One of them being the plate that surrounds the matrix joint at the bulkhead and the reverse lights do not light up any more.
I'd like to begin with the reverse light. Where do I begin?
I'd like to begin with the reverse light. Where do I begin?
27-10-2016, 07:48 AM
Lights could be the wiring not connected at the reverse switch, easy to get at to check - the switch is mounted in the top of the gearbox so look from the front of the car just to the left of and underneath the battery on the alloy casing.
31-10-2016, 06:07 AM
(27-10-2016, 07:48 AM)geoff Wrote: [ -> ]Lights could be the wiring not connected at the reverse switch, easy to get at to check - the switch is mounted in the top of the gearbox so look from the front of the car just to the left of and underneath the battery on the alloy casing.
Switch was tested and established to be faulty.
31-10-2016, 09:01 AM
Good you've found the fault and it is easy to rectify .... well done and thanks for updating with the outcome !
29-01-2017, 04:20 PM
Hi,
Ive got same problem, leaking heater matrix, going to get it done when the weather improves, my question, is the heater matrix same for aircon and no aircon berlingo/partner?
Thanks Jason
Ive got same problem, leaking heater matrix, going to get it done when the weather improves, my question, is the heater matrix same for aircon and no aircon berlingo/partner?
Thanks Jason
19-03-2017, 08:04 AM
I am really impressed about your absolutely clear useful and massively helpful description! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
I have 20 years repairing experience on cars planes and on boats but... when I tried to do this job on my £500 Berlingo I was lost.
I tried to find solution on internet that's the first step before I start to doing any repairs. I never ever have find this high qualified description on a 5 hours job! Congratulation!
Regards
B Janata
I have 20 years repairing experience on cars planes and on boats but... when I tried to do this job on my £500 Berlingo I was lost.
I tried to find solution on internet that's the first step before I start to doing any repairs. I never ever have find this high qualified description on a 5 hours job! Congratulation!
Regards
B Janata
11-09-2018, 04:20 PM
Just replaced the heater matrix on my 2008 M59 Partner with A/C using the descriptions from Missspentyouth and Mark Lightfoot. Without reading these, I doubt I would have done the job myself. Just a few observations.
Before you start make sure you follow the correct procedure to shut down the electronics before disconnecting the battery! Basically take key out ign, shut all doors, make sure everything is turned off and wait 3 mins before disconnection.
1, wrap a bit of rag around the gear stick to prevent damage to the dash, its heavy and awkward to handle and has a tendency to lean forward, resting the hazard switch hard against the gear lever.
2, remove the heater controls from the dash before you move it to avoid straining the control cables. You really dont want any kinks in these (kinky cables are bad news! oh err) otherwise proper operation of the heater controls will be affected and you will end up having to remove the cables completely and straighten them. To remove the controls, first take off the center display hood by careful levering at the sides with a screwdriver and pulling fowards and upwards. Next remove the strip around the window switches etc. again a thin screwdriver in the side to help it to pull forward and off the retaining clips. Remove the radio. There are 4 torx screws that hold the fascia on 2 at the top and 2 just above where the radio sits. Now pull the fascia forward from the top and it should unclip. Now you can access the 2 torx screws for the heater controls and the control plate then pushes inwards. Leave it hanging loose and then check as the dash is pulled forwards, keeping it as free as possible.
3, there are 2 10mm bolts fitted sideways holding the matrix box to the rest of the heater box. The lower one can be removed before the dash is taken out and the upper after, along with one 6mm bolt. Carefully separate the two sides making sure the box doesnt separate top from bottom. If this happens, make sure the large flap (main heat control) has not jumped out of its socket. If it has and the box is put back like that, then the main heat control knob will spring back from fully hot position and the control will not work properly.
4, to avoid problems with the extension pipes not fitting well, I removed the original Valeo ones and fitted them to the pattern Nissens matrix. The Nissens pipes were about 2mm closer together so would have stressed the joint all the time. It fitted perfectly at the matrix end. Also the plastic used is not the same grade as the Valeo unit. Time will tell if this is a good move or not but the factors I use did not stock the Valeo unit.
5, although its stated elsewhere, replacement o rings size used is 22mm Internal Diameter x 3mm cross section and can be had from these folks on the bay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-EPDM-7...1438.l2649
6, make absolutely sure all wires are reconnected properly. Had a weird one where the grey plug under the comms unit pulled out the mating socket and on refitting the pins did not reengage. This led to dead car and fault steering column height ecu failure. BSI resets did nothing and it was only after an auto sparky had looked and was on the verge of sending the BSI away did he ask me to recheck and make sure a wire was not disconnected. Luckily I found the problem and after a BSI reset, all was well.
If you have a wobbly clutch pedal, now is the time to replace those worn bushes, its dead easy with the dash out.
Hope this helps.
Before you start make sure you follow the correct procedure to shut down the electronics before disconnecting the battery! Basically take key out ign, shut all doors, make sure everything is turned off and wait 3 mins before disconnection.
1, wrap a bit of rag around the gear stick to prevent damage to the dash, its heavy and awkward to handle and has a tendency to lean forward, resting the hazard switch hard against the gear lever.
2, remove the heater controls from the dash before you move it to avoid straining the control cables. You really dont want any kinks in these (kinky cables are bad news! oh err) otherwise proper operation of the heater controls will be affected and you will end up having to remove the cables completely and straighten them. To remove the controls, first take off the center display hood by careful levering at the sides with a screwdriver and pulling fowards and upwards. Next remove the strip around the window switches etc. again a thin screwdriver in the side to help it to pull forward and off the retaining clips. Remove the radio. There are 4 torx screws that hold the fascia on 2 at the top and 2 just above where the radio sits. Now pull the fascia forward from the top and it should unclip. Now you can access the 2 torx screws for the heater controls and the control plate then pushes inwards. Leave it hanging loose and then check as the dash is pulled forwards, keeping it as free as possible.
3, there are 2 10mm bolts fitted sideways holding the matrix box to the rest of the heater box. The lower one can be removed before the dash is taken out and the upper after, along with one 6mm bolt. Carefully separate the two sides making sure the box doesnt separate top from bottom. If this happens, make sure the large flap (main heat control) has not jumped out of its socket. If it has and the box is put back like that, then the main heat control knob will spring back from fully hot position and the control will not work properly.
4, to avoid problems with the extension pipes not fitting well, I removed the original Valeo ones and fitted them to the pattern Nissens matrix. The Nissens pipes were about 2mm closer together so would have stressed the joint all the time. It fitted perfectly at the matrix end. Also the plastic used is not the same grade as the Valeo unit. Time will tell if this is a good move or not but the factors I use did not stock the Valeo unit.
5, although its stated elsewhere, replacement o rings size used is 22mm Internal Diameter x 3mm cross section and can be had from these folks on the bay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-EPDM-7...1438.l2649
6, make absolutely sure all wires are reconnected properly. Had a weird one where the grey plug under the comms unit pulled out the mating socket and on refitting the pins did not reengage. This led to dead car and fault steering column height ecu failure. BSI resets did nothing and it was only after an auto sparky had looked and was on the verge of sending the BSI away did he ask me to recheck and make sure a wire was not disconnected. Luckily I found the problem and after a BSI reset, all was well.
If you have a wobbly clutch pedal, now is the time to replace those worn bushes, its dead easy with the dash out.
Hope this helps.