Hi All
New Berlingo user, as of a week ago lol. Picked up an '04 1.9D ( ex refridgeration van , with cooler unit removed ) Looking at converting to work / camper van. Handy already having the rear insulated ! False floor alreay put in , with drawer slides at front and with hinged rear access, almost a variation on the Boot Jumper conversations. Loads still to do , but looking forward to learning more by reading on here .
Pete
[
attachment=4740]
[
attachment=4741]
Nice find.
Do you know why the previous owner got rid of it?
I would be worried about rust inside the walls or under the floor.
(condensation... )
Sold as guy had gotten car and no longer need van. 10 mths MOT on it, floor is minted , panels look to have been filled with expanding foam , then covered with fibre glass. All seems solid enough !
Insulation was done by a pro refridgeration company.
Just back from a oil / filter change. Only issue I see is from rear N/S wheel being really close to the plastic wheel arch cover, almost like a slight splay on the wheel , not sure if its a bushing issue at wheel or axle issue, need to investigate .
Close to plastic liner?
As if the car has been lowered?
If so, you probably have a broken Torsion rod in the suspension. That requires a swap of the axle assembly. (can be done on a day if you have all the tools and new parts lined up. You will need new hubs also, if hat is the case. And its a good idea to swap the shocks, and the rear rubber mounts at the same time)
Close yes , but not as if lowered, no real space ( in comparision to other wheel on same axle ) between tyre and side of liner. Almost as if the wheel has a tilt at top side
If it is axle issue ( think your correct ) then is it axle assembly AND get another axle ?
If the wheel is permanently 'tilted' you may have a damaged arm on the axle assembly.
that is a 'replace the ting immediately' issue.
if it can be wiggled, then you have either a hub failure, or a failed needle bearing in the axle assembly. The hub is a bit of a mess to replace(part of one of the bearing races will stay on the spindle when you pull the hub off, and have to be removed. )
The needle bearing requires specialist tools and knowhow to replace since the torsion bars are pre-tensioned.
Which is why we replace the entire assembly when either the bars or bearings fail.
There's actually a mod to add grease nipples to the axle in order to keep the needle bearings from failing.
Jack it up, and put it on axle stands, but DO NOT use any part of the axle assembly as a support point. Then see if there's any play in the components.
Note that if the rear mounts(rubber blocks) have persihed, the entire assembly will swing down as you jack it up. This is unfortunately not all that unusual. But they're cheap.
At the same time, check the brake pressure adjuster. It's a metal block near the righthand rear wheel. Just follow the brake lines to it.
It should be possible to move the arm on it, and that arm should have a spring hooked to it that connects to the arm the hub is mounted to.
If it's seized a couple of 'gentle taps' with a mallet should free it up...
And the spring may have rusted apart. It's not a very expensive part, though.
Some MOT stations have personnell that actually know about that part and will fail you if it's broken.
Wow, cheers for the detailed explanation Gadgetman.
Gives a start of where to look and check, appreciated mate.
Hi Pete and welcome !
Does the Canon part of your name suggest you wear a dog collar ?
Geoff, lol, no , it`s from my camera gear .
(28-07-2019, 10:25 AM)Canon Pete Wrote: [ -> ]Geoff, lol, no , it`s from my camera gear .
Just think of the fun you could have making up Forum names ....
