Having changed the starter motor, the Berlingo (1.4i , 52 reg) now wants more money spending on it and it looks like I'm going to be tackling the water pump tomorrow.
I downloaded the Haynes Manual, which looks pretty helpful (thank you for posting a link to it on the forum).
It looks pretty straight forward, except the whole thing with the timing belt. The previous owner changed the timing belt (but for some reason not the water pump, which is now leaking), so I do not plan on changing the belt. As I can see on the 1.4i the cams need to be locked by putting a 10mm bolt through the hole in the cam sprocket at 2 o'clock and make a mark on the crank (in case it moves when the belt is off).
Sounds good so far, however my worry is the reassembly. The Haynes Manual talks about making sure that the cambelt is properly tensioned (not to tight and not to loose). Are there any hints/tips to make sure I achieve the right tension?
Thank you in advance. Hopefully it will all go smoothly.
Once you have timed the engine up and put the pin in the camshaft sprocket make a tippex mark on the belt and on the sprocket and do the same at the bottom on the crankshaft sprocket / belt.
Make sure the marks are good and clear so there can be no confusion, using marks will ensure you get the belt back on exactly as it was. (no chance of being a tooth out)
As for tensioning the belt...
before you remove the belt check the tension on the long run down the front of the engine, between the camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket, at the mid point try twisting the belt with your finger & thumb, try to remember this tension and set the refitted belt to the same.
As a general rule of thumb you should be able to twist the belt through about 90 degrees with reasonable force.
After you have refitted the belt and have tensioned it you will have to turn the engine over by hand one full revolution to even out the tensioning, after this recheck the belt tension with the twist method.
Note, any tippex marks you made on the belt / sprockets won't line up any longer once the engine has been turned over, this is normal.
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Unless the timing belt is only a few thousand miles old I would replace it as a matter of coarse its not worth the hassle. You could have an auto tensioner for the belt check this and replace if it looks old. Buy a good make of pump as there is a lot of rubbish out there.
Firstly wanted to say thank you Tomcat and JJ.
Waterpump changed and it was not as difficult as I thought.
Used TipEx to make numerous marks.
The tensioner for the cambelt was of the new variety with the "Min, normal, max" positions, so that was not too difficult.
The cambelt did look pretty fine and I would have renewed it, if I was going to keep the car (more below).
The waterpump was definitely leaking (there were coolant stains as well as "k-seal" or "radweld" copper looking stains running down the block, cleaned it all up.
Ok, now the big problem...
I am having what I suspect headgasket/cracked block problems. The car overheats and the heaters blow cold. The mechanic doing the clutch said that your water pump is leaking, so keep an eye on the coolant and change the pump asap. I changed the pump as well as the thermostat (in the process flushed out the cooling system), but the problem persists.
Here are the symptoms:
1) When the engine is stone cold, it seems to be misfiring, but when warmed up runs like a sewing machine.
2) There is some "white smoke" out of the exhaust when cold (could be the weather), but when warmed up all clears up.
3) Can't get any heat in the cabin (turn the heat up, down, 1,2,3,4 - still cold).
4) There is no trace of oil in the header tank.
5) The header tank pressurises (take off the cap, cut the bottom off a coke bottle, turn it upside down into the header tank and fill with water, bubbles come through as the car idles, but if you rev it to 2k, no bubbles).
6) When the temperature rises, the radiator fan kicks in the top hose is hot and hard, but the lower hose is cold (which I suppose it should be) but appears to be soft (like full of air).
7) The oil cap has traces of "mayo", so could be the end, or might be water vapour.
I am 99% certain that it is time to say goodbye (not really happy, as I started to quite like the car). However, if there are suggestions as to what else I can try, then I would love to hear them.
Thank you.
Good to hear that you got the water pump / timing belt sorted.
Yes, that sounds like the classic symptoms of a blown head gasket.
The 1.4 (TU3JP) engine is a wet liner engine so you haven't got a cracked block.
The cylinder head gaskets on these engines are prone to failure due to age, they often start to leak oil at the timing belt end but the water ways can also leak as in your case.
The plus point is that they are really easy to do and don't cost a lot of money, if you can remove and refit the timing belt you could change the head gasket.
Take a look on youtube for what's involved, in most cases you can even reuse the old head bolts if they are under a given measurement.
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As jj9 says its probably the head gasket rotting away they tend to go after 100,000 miles or if its original. Its a doddle to do but best to get your head skimmed just to be safe. It costs about 40 quid for a head gasket set with new head bolts just in case.
Just a thought but did you bleed air from the cooling system ? There is a bleed valve for this .I had a overheating problem after changing my water pump also. Took a couple of bleeding sessions to get the air fully out !
Ok, just to give a quick update.
First of all, thank you to everyone for the suggestions and encouragement. Given the current situation I have a lot of spare time on my hands so decided to change the head gasket.
Few things I noted:
- Old one was rotten (it looked completely nothing like the new one, it was literally "holed").
- I (and probably the previous owner) am guilty of putting radweld into the coolant, which was a bad mistake. I was scraping out copper from the water jacket (around the cylinder liners).
- The job is not that difficult if you take your time and watch the videos.
- I hated using the angular torque gauge (but kind of made it work with assistance in the end).
A couple of questions:
- The oil filter is inside a plastic filter housing (once you take off the housing, there is a plastic stick, which appears to be holding the filter in place). Is there a diagram of how it all fits together? I yanked out the old filter and replaced it with a new one (from ECP), but the old one looks far more substantial and I am worried I yanked out something I shouldn't have.
- I am having a problem with the alternator/power steering belt tensioner. I can move the nut clockwise (the pulley/tensioner moves towards the ground and there is more tension in the belt), but the Torx screw (T40, I think) appears to have rusted solid to the nut. So the pulley/tensioner eventually moves upwards and the belt squeaks and becomes slack. Is there a way to fix this, or should I just get a new tensioner?
Once again, thank you for the encouragement you all gave me to tackle this, never done a head gasket before. I have lots of pics, but not sure how to upload them (yet).
Good stuff with the head gasket, we knew you could do it
it sounds like your head gasket had rotted away as they tend to do on this engine.
I can't really help much with the oil filter or the tensioner as it's years since I worked on a TU engine.
As you will know the 1.4i engine was fitted to a lot of cars in the citroen / peugeot range so watching a few videos of a peugeot 206 service may show the oil filter for comparison, same goes for the aux belt tensioner.
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Just in case you haven't gotten it all sorted, yet.
The 1.4i has a slight design flaw. The Thermostat housing and bleed screw is NOT at the highest point of the engine. Water is circulating slightly higher than that inside the block. This means that air can be trapped inside even if you bleed it.
To fix this you jack up the front left quarter as much as you dare, THEN bleed it.
If the Radiator on the M59 is the same as the M49, then there should be a bleed screw on top of the inlet side. Do that at the same time.
The Heater is best done while the car is sitting level.