After 6 years of ownership and bragging about how rust free my mk1 is, there is the tell tale signs of three tiny rust bubbles on the rear passenger wheel arch.
Gutted is an understatement, I've been told that area is double skinned, so the only cure is to cut out the affected metal and weld in new. Not worth it on a ten year of van
I saw a r reg mk1 tother day and it was rusted to death in the same area.
Sorry to hear about your "gold plating"problem.My advice,for what it's worth,is to remove the inner trim panels,mix a 50/50 mix Waxoyl/white spirit & squirt into the wheel arch/outer skin seam starting at the top middle.Apply thinly otherwise it will run out of every orifice.Do this several times over several weeks preferably in warm surroundings to encourage creep.When the summer comes,Ha Ha,apply full strength.
You will probably see it seeping through your rust bubbles.
If you want to rub down & paint the bubbles,clean sparingly several times with white spirit so as not to dilute the wax behind the panel.
Get some paint on pdq to prevent wax contaminating from behind the panel.
This has worked for me in the past & at 10 years,looks are not so important.
(17-03-2013, 07:53 PM)steve valentine Wrote: [ -> ]the only cure is to cut out the affected metal and weld in new. Not worth it on a ten year of van
Why not worth it ? Get the mig out and get stuck in or ignore it and let it develop. It could be years before it becomes a serious problem.
I've done the waxoil bit before with success and also if things are a little worse used aluminium sticky tape to lay over a rusted area on wheel arches, either inside or out or both, depending.
I use this stuff or similar and have done so for years when running old wagons ......keeps the looks as best as possible or should I say the best of a bad job compared to panel welding / filling etc.
Once the tape is laid on you are best advised to burnish the surface to get the smoothest finish and also to get it to apply and stay applied.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-al...tAodOHYA7Q
(17-03-2013, 11:08 PM)ffrenchie Wrote: [ -> ] (17-03-2013, 07:53 PM)steve valentine Wrote: [ -> ]the only cure is to cut out the affected metal and weld in new. Not worth it on a ten year of van
Why not worth it ? Get the mig out and get stuck in or ignore it and let it develop. It could be years before it becomes a serious problem.
Not got a mig, and even if I did, I've never welded a body panel in before. It'd cost even more to sort out my mess.
alut:
I'd probably go down the aluminium tape both sides, but I can only get to one, and I reckon that'd look more of a t**t than the rust
illyme:
Not forgetting that you can trim carefully the tape to suit the profile of the wheelarch so it doesn't have to look all boxy and ugly.
Also you can put some paint on the tape so it blends in.
I think the main thing is to apply some rust killer first to try and slow any further rusting down - you will never stop it - and to not have any perforated body panel that will fail an MOT, taped over rust holes will pass the MOT all day long.
Body filler will need paint so whatever you do you are into a nuisance situation and rest assured the rust will come through the filler before too long, at least with tape and waxoil underneath there is less work to do and you can get at it again if needed.
The joys of older cars and rust based activities ...... I thought them good old days had gone......
You can stall rust; Ron's method appreciably starves the chemical process of oxygen - which it needs to progress. Even a smear of Vaseline over the outside lacerations after washing, will block oxygen from entering the mix.
(18-03-2013, 10:23 AM)addo Wrote: [ -> ]You can stall rust; Ron's method appreciably starves the chemical process of oxygen - which it needs to progress. Even a smear of Vaseline over the outside lacerations after washing, will block oxygen from entering the mix.
That's 2 uses for Vaseline:whistle::whistle:
Yep; fitting auto gearbox front pump O-rings, and rust control.
3 uses,versatile stuff ain't it.
alut: