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berlingo 1.6hdi cutting out.
#11
Thanks to everybody for their suggestions.Will try a fuel cleaner as suggested.Happened twice in succession yesterday.
Busy as everybody else at this time so replies may be a bit long in coming but will inform if I solve it.
Happy Christmas to all.
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#12
I would change the fuel filter again and fill with some neat millers start with revs.

1) this should eliminate a air leak introduced by the last filter change.

2) it will give the injectors a big clean that is no bad thing at your mileage.
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#13
(17-12-2019, 10:34 AM)polar Wrote:  I would change the fuel filter again and fill with some neat millers start with revs.

1) this should eliminate a air leak introduced by the last filter change.

2) it will give the injectors a big clean that is no bad thing at your mileage.

Thanks polar for your suggestion.
However,the filter was changed by a very reputable fitter who has done several of these for me without any problems.If this was the problem why is it only intermittent.I can go for days without any sign of it.I will take on board your suggestion of additive to clean the injectors although I don't think it will clear the fault.
Thanks again.
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#14
Thanks everyone.
I spoke to a main dealer with the intention of booking it in.He was, apparently, an expert on Berlingos but said he had never come across this fault.However,he suggested that it could possibly be the accelerator pedal which has a sensor in it.My son transferred a pedal off a Peugeot partner which is working ok at the moment.Unnortunately,the original one would work fine for some time and then play up again,so time will tell.In the meantime I have purchased a second hand pedal showing exactly the same identification nos.which will replace the Peugeot one and I will have to go from there.Why do I always get faults that have not been heard of.Same with my bikes.Hope to solve one day and post it to help anyone who suffers the same problem.
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#15
Hi Artie, I think you've nailed it with the pedal.

That would have been my first suggestion based on it intermittently continuing to run but refusing to rev when the throttle pedal was pressed.....sorry I hadn't seen your thread (question) before now. Fingers crossed you have solved it.
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#16
(31-03-2020, 03:56 AM)Zion Wrote:  Hi Artie, I think you've nailed it with the pedal.

That would have been my first suggestion based on it intermittently continuing to run but refusing to rev when the throttle pedal was pressed.....sorry I hadn't seen your thread (question) before now. Fingers crossed you have solved it.

Hello Zion,
glad you picked up my problem because I have trouble going back in to my thread so have been unable to add anything.I'm not good with IT.
The pedal was replaced with a spare off a Peugeot and it worked well.Unfortunately,I had to return the pedal,bought a second hand one.This worked ok for a time and then as usual gave the same problem.
I want the problem solved because I will not sell the vehicle on to someone else with it still on the car.Sale is not imminent but I need to solve it for fear of it breaking down and causing more misery.
As a last resort I may have to give in and take it to the main dealer who originally suggested the pedal as a cure. The car is now showing a very slight missing on driving off on a cold engine (almost imperceptible) but soon disappears.
I very much appreciate your interest.
Thank you very much.
Best wishes,stay safe,
artie.
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#17
Hi Artie, thanks for the kind words. I've seen this issue before on a drive by wire car, the pedal has 2 potentiometers so the ECU can tell the signal it's getting is genuine, if they don't match then things can go wrong. There is a bit of tolerance between them but not much.

Next, the engine (being a diesel) has no real throttle, revving of the engine is achieved by the ECU increasing the injector volume and duration. So no throttle motor to worry about.

Finally, and this is where I think your issue may be, if a replacement pedal has gone back to the same behaviour (and remember a used pedal could be suffering the same issues as the original) is to check the brake switch is correctly adjusted, and needs a reasonable amount of pedal travel before the brake lights come on ( can be checked with an assistant) as if it lights up the brake lights by just breathing on it, that could be the issue right there.

If the ECU detects both brake pedal activation AND throttle pedal input, it kills the throttle pedal and ignores it. This is so that if you panic brake in a situation, and get both pedals with your foot, the brake function takes priority and the throttle is ignored ( try while driving with a bit of throttle on, touch the brake pedal even slightly with your left foot and the engine will immediately drop to idle, even if you have the throttle to the floor)

So...check how sensitive the brake pedal switch is, and whether it is lighting up the brake lights when this issue happens. Maybe get someone to follow you till it goes wrong. If for example it fails after braking at a junction when you try to pull away and get no throttle input, the brake switch is likely sticking or the brake pedal sticking enough to trigger the switch....that will stop the throttle pedal having any effect and the engine will not rev, until the ECU sees the brake switch go off for a second.
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#18
(31-03-2020, 01:50 PM)Zion Wrote:  Hi Artie, thanks for the kind words. I've seen this issue before on a drive by wire car, the pedal has 2 potentiometers so the ECU can tell the signal it's getting is genuine, if they don't match then things can go wrong. There is a bit of tolerance between them but not much.

Next, the engine (being a diesel) has no real throttle, revving of the engine is achieved by the ECU increasing the injector volume and duration. So no throttle motor to worry about.

Finally, and this is where I think your issue may be, if a replacement pedal has gone back to the same behaviour (and remember a used pedal could be suffering the same issues as the original) is to check the brake switch is correctly adjusted, and needs a reasonable amount of pedal travel before the brake lights come on ( can be checked with an assistant) as if it lights up the brake lights by just breathing on it, that could be the issue right there.

If the ECU detects both brake pedal activation AND throttle pedal input, it kills the throttle pedal and ignores it. This is so that if you panic brake in a situation, and get both pedals with your foot, the brake function takes priority and the throttle is ignored ( try while driving with a bit of throttle on, touch the brake pedal even slightly with your left foot and the engine will immediately drop to idle, even if you have the throttle to the floor)

So...check how sensitive the brake pedal switch is, and whether it is lighting up the brake lights when this issue happens. Maybe get someone to follow you till it goes wrong. If for example it fails after braking at a junction when you try to pull away and get no throttle input, the brake switch is likely sticking or the brake pedal sticking enough to trigger the switch....that will stop the throttle pedal having any effect and the engine will not rev, until the ECU sees the brake switch go off for a second.
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#19
Artie, if you just use the little empty box at the bottom to reply, it saves you having to navigate the inserted text from the previous message.
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[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Sol for this post:
  • artie
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#20
(31-03-2020, 05:59 PM)Many thanks Zion.Most informative.You prompted my memory when you discussed hitting both pedals at the same time.I remember now   that when it happened immediately after picking up the car, my son ,who was following close behind came up to me and asked if I had pressed the brake and accelerator pedals at the same time-hotly denied by me!We did not pursue the matter any further but your prognosis makes more sense the more I think about it.Yes, I also considered that my replacement pedal could also be faulty.A local mechanic tried to explain to me about 2 switches(sensors)in the pedal operating together so that also bears out with what you are saying.My next move was going to be a visit to the main dealer to see if the ecu could be checked but thanks to you,I feel that I could follow on with the information you have given me.Unfortunately,like most people,I am \ confined to barracks Wrote:  
(31-03-2020, 01:50 PM)Zion Wrote:  Hi Artie, thanks for the kind words. I've seen this issue before on a drive by wire car, the pedal has 2 potentiometers so the ECU can tell the signal it's getting is genuine, if they don't match then things can go wrong. There is a bit of tolerance between them but not much.

Next, the engine (being a diesel) has no real throttle, revving of the engine is achieved by the ECU increasing the injector volume and duration. So no throttle motor to worry about.

Finally, and this is where I think your issue may be, if a replacement pedal has gone back to the same behaviour (and remember a used pedal could be suffering the same issues as the original) is to check the brake switch is correctly adjusted, and needs a reasonable amount of pedal travel before the brake lights come on ( can be checked with an assistant) as if it lights up the brake lights by just breathing on it, that could be the issue right there.

If the ECU detects both brake pedal activation AND throttle pedal input, it kills the throttle pedal and ignores it. This is so that if you panic brake in a situation, and get both pedals with your foot, the brake function takes priority and the throttle is ignored ( try while driving with a bit of throttle on, touch the brake pedal even slightly with your left foot and the engine will immediately drop to idle, even if you have the throttle to the floor)

So...check how sensitive the brake pedal switch is, and whether it is lighting up the brake lights when this issue happens. Maybe get someone to follow you till it goes wrong. If for example it fails after braking at a junction when you try to pull away and get no throttle input, the brake switch is likely sticking or the brake pedal sticking enough to trigger the switch....that will stop the throttle pedal having any effect and the engine will not rev, until the ECU sees the brake switch go off for a second.
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