2.0 HDi Timing belt change - various questions

[cha1n]

Hi

I will be attempting this over the weekend, I've never done one before, this will probably be the most serious mechanical work I've ever done on a car but I'm skint, I follow instructions well, so I'm hoping it's worth the risk.

I have various resources that I'm using to create a replacement procedure from and I will more than likely be asking lots of questions on this thread but I'll start with this one:

Around 50-60% of the instructions I have DO NOT mention the use of a flywheel locking tool like so:

[Image: franklin-flywheel-locking-tool-peugeot-c...3664-p.jpg]

but they all pin the flywheel by the starter with an 8mm bolt/pin. The official flywheel locking tool seems to be mentioned whenever the crankshaft pulley bolt is tightened/slackened.

I find it curious that the flywheel needs to be locked in place with a flywheel locking tool AND pinned near the starter. Can anyone shed some light on this please?

I've just thought of a second question, there's mentioning of a locking pin for the woodruff key on the crankshaft pinion. Why is it necessary? I have the DW10TD engine. EDIT, I think I know why now as the sprocket has a bit of wiggle room on the shaft you have to insert a bit of 2mm dia rod on the left side of the key to ensure the sprocket is rotated anti-clockwise as far as it can go on the key whilst the belt is being refitted. Would still like this confirmed though.

Thanks for any help.

[cha1n]

Another question, what would you use to degrease the area if a seal is leaking? I know certain degreasers have a negative effect on rubbers so I don't want to damage any seals.

Also, which type of loctite would you use for refitting the tensioner (I've read about reusing them due to poor quality replacement bolts in kits) and crankshaft pulley? The guide I have just says 'LOCTITE FRENETANCH'.

[polar]

the only tool you really need is the 8mm one for the flywheel - saves taking off the starter motor but is in its self is no big deal.

you do not need to lock the crank just turn it before fitting the new belt and check after tensioning, ive never had one move yet.

normal stud lock will do for the tensioner - no need to re locktite the crank shaft pulley. By the way it helps to get some heat on the pulley bolt to melt the locktite when removing.

[cha1n]

Thanks for the reply.

I read that a proper flywheel locking tool has to be used because the crankshaft pulley bolt is very tight and you shouldn't rely on the 8mm bolt alone to lock it off. I don't understand why they both have to be used, I can only assume that it's to form some sort of dual redundancy?

I've settled on Loctite 243 (blue).

Still interested in the degreaser question.

[polar]

put in gear and get someone to put there foot on the brake. even better use an impact gun.

i would use brake wash for the engine seal.

[cha1n]

I've read that the foot on the brake method isn't really recommended but can't remember why. I think I'd rather jam a pry-bar in the flywheel than do that. I can get a locking tool for £10, it's just a shame that I haven't got a vice as I'd make on up out of some scrap metal otherwise!

[geoff]

Personally I think the use of the flywheel locking pin to hold the engine whilst undoing the crankshaft nut is a bad idea and certainly bad practice but if people choose it that way and bend the pin then don't come crying ......

Home made locking device is easy enough - below is my quickly cobbled together one for my 1.9D
The angled metal piece is a " Unistrut " bracket.

Degreaser - diesel or petrol will be fine if it is at hand easily, aerosol brake cleaner is good also.
It will take a long exposure to solvents to make a seal degrade.

[cha1n]

Thanks for that Geoff.

For the HDI engine the Haynes Manual specifically states that you have to have the timing pins in place AND have a flywheel locking tool in place. I know on the the 1.9D you can have the flywheel locking tool only when you undo the crank pulley bolt but that's because the crank sprocket is fixed whereas on the HDi the crank sprocket is 'floating' on a woodruff keyway.

Well, that's the only logical explanation for having the timing pins in and the flywheel locking tool fitted. Unfortunately I can only come across a thin bit of steel, around 1.5mm. I'm guessing that's too thin to help much?

[cha1n]

Also, interestingly enough, one of my guides mentions putting the car in gear and rotating one of the road wheels to find TDC the first time around, before removing the crank pulley. Any particular reason why do do this over a wrench on the pulley?

Think I have all of the tools required now so will crack on with it tomorrow if the weather plays ball, next day otherwise.

[thurrockdave]

It may only be that it's a bit easier and less likely to deprive you of a knuckle or two.