Posts: 11
Threads: 4
Thanks Received: 0 in 0 posts
Thanks Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2014
Location: Ireland
Reputation:
0
There's a squeal coming from auxiliary belt I changed the power steering pump recently and it's still there I also put in an alternator from a scrap yard not too long ago so I think the bearings are gone in the alternator or the idler pulleys thing is I don't know if changing Idler pulleys is a big job any advice or help? 1.9D Berlingo 2000 model no AC
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
•
Posts: 1,783
Threads: 43
Thanks Received: 411 in 368 posts
Thanks Given: 137
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Galloway
Reputation:
32
Tried to change my aux belt recently, awkward as hell more so when the belt was approx. 100 mm too small, and only bloody awkward when the right belt was used. Noticed the automatic adjuster /idler was slightly noisy but will keep an eye on it. Not noisy enough to justify the cost (£70.00 ?). The other idlers seemed easy to get at to change when engine was lowered.
•
Posts: 78
Threads: 15
Thanks Received: 14 in 12 posts
Thanks Given: 0
Joined: Jun 2011
Location:
Reputation:
1
How did you change it? Looking at the manual I'm supposed to use a special cranked bar to do it. Just wondered if anyone had a cunning technique that didn't involve buying an expensive tool.
•
Posts: 113
Threads: 6
Thanks Received: 16 in 13 posts
Thanks Given: 11
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Reputation:
1
05-02-2015, 11:50 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-02-2015, 11:50 AM by jamesg.)
On my 306 with the same DW8 engine, I had the automatic tensioner done by a garage (short on time) after it threw the belt off, so I probably wouldn't leave it.
Short while later I did the manual tensioner when I replaced the alternator. Just make sure you lock off the sprung tensioner with a bolt before taking the belt off. Both tensioners were original 14 years old, 100k miles.
•
Posts: 11
Threads: 4
Thanks Received: 0 in 0 posts
Thanks Given: 0
Joined: Mar 2014
Location: Ireland
Reputation:
0
Was it a hard job?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
•
Posts: 113
Threads: 6
Thanks Received: 16 in 13 posts
Thanks Given: 11
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Reputation:
1
The sprung tensioner looked a bit of a pain, but the manual tensioner was straight forward.
Alternator was easy, just getting is out past AC pipes was tricky.
There was plenty of access once the wheel arch trim was off. This was on a 306 though, Berlingo might even have more space.
I only had a Haynes manual for reference.
•
Posts: 30
Threads: 5
Thanks Received: 3 in 2 posts
Thanks Given: 0
Joined: Nov 2011
Location:
Reputation:
1
Ive just had the same problem,Ive changed all the wheels and to no avail as the noise is coming from the alternator you can prove this by taking the belt off and running the engine,if the noise stops its the alternator[or the pump] but you say you changed yours. to take the belt off you need a long 15mm spanner and a home made tool, i used a flat piece of aluminium carpet strip 70 cm long, drill a hole at the end and put in a thin nut and bolt, the bolt protruding 2cm out from the nut.
Now push the tensioner back with the spanner and stick the bolt in the hole on the tensioner body, you have to wiggle it a bit to get it lined up, when its locked you can remove the belt.
Dont forget to draw a diagram of belt run and have fun.