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Heater Matrix replacement Berlingo Partner How To
Just changed the heater Matrix on my mothers Peugeot Partner multispace 2004 with A/C so thought I would share my findings here before I forget.

Firstly this is quite an involved job not for the feint hearted and wouldn’t recommend for a novice. No warranty implied or given for the following took me about 5 hours and I am quite speedy. I don’t believe any of these steps can be missed out in order to save time.

With the doors all closed ignition off and key removed disconnect the battery.

Remove the centre console and lift off over the handbrake and gear lever.

Remove the felt covers under the dash both sides, remove the glove box.

Remove large Torx screws at either ends of the dash in the door reveal

Remove the dash trim to the right of the steering wheel and with a 13mm socket on an extension remove the retaining bolt through the round cut out in the dash.

Remove the instrument cluster surround (just pulls off) and the instrument cluster held in with 1 screw at the top but a right fiddle to get out (and even worse to get back in) remove 2 x 10mm bolts under cluster

Remove completely the bolt that connects the steering column to the steering rack, scratch the column and rack with a mark to aid reconnection. Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the steering column on. Pull the steering wheel and rack up and out a few inches and then disconnect the various electrical connection to ignition, lights, indicators etc. Then remove column and steering wheel as a unit.

Remove A pillar trim pieces both sides, remove radio, poke some thin screw drivers or allen keys into the holes to free it off. There is a retaining screw in there sideways on that I missed that needs to be removed connects dash to heater box.

Remove various screws along bottom edge of dash. Remove 13mm bolt holding metal support bar to floor near gear lever, there are also some screws and bolts here low down and easy to miss right down at carpet level.
Remove windscreen wipers, remove plastic scuttle panel under two parts, remove rainwater collectors to either side. Remove wiper metal linkage various 10 mm bolts mark orientation of wiper arm linkage on top of motor support panel in park position prior to disconnection (its 3 O’Clock). Disconnect wiper motor from its support panel 3 x 10mm bolts and remove wiper support panel.

Remove 3 x 10mm bolts with a long reach socket from within wiper arm mechanism reveal these go through the firewall and hold top of dash, 1 is right behind the wiper motor and inaccessible without removing it above. Remove the two 13 mm bolts on the drivers side.

Push metal retaining clip to right between heater matrix feed pipes as they go through the firewall then wiggle pipes vigorously to disconnect, a small amount of coolant will come out. Mine was well stuck on. Remove the 2 x torx screws in the metal adaptor plate and lift off over matrix feed pipes, then remove rubber gasket in the same way.

Push seats right back and engage 2nd gear. You should now be able to pull the dash out towards you work one side and then the other feel for any screws you have missed. Once the dash come forward look behind and you will find the two dash speaker cables straining, the radio aerial and also a heater control cable. I made the mistake of disconnecting this at the heater box end and it took me 30 minutes to reconnect on reassembly complete pig, I would try the other end at the heater control know it must be easier. Free off straining cables and let dash rest up against gear lever.
This gives just enough room to get matrix out, or you could take dash out completely but there are lots of cables.

Remove the two 10 mm bolts going through firewall lower down than the others, if you have A/C then they are at the same height as those pipes. Now if you don’t have A/C you should now be able to pull the heater box forward and then fish out your heater matrix. If you have A/C then the pipes going through the firewall on the passenger side prevent this, however if you disconnect the matrix coolant pipes at the top of the matrix 2 x 10 or 8 mm bolts and pull the pipes off, then pulling forward on the heater box as much as you can you can just get the matrix out.

Clean out the bottom of the heater box as best you can were the old coolant has leaked out. If you have A/C then you will need to put new one in without its extension pipes fitted be careful not to damage the fins as you slide it back in, then fit extension pipes once in situ make sure rubber O rings fitted correctly *** don’t screw this up as you don’t want to do this job twice ***

Reassembly is the reverse of removal.

My new matrix extension pipes were slightly incompatible with the fitting on the hoses on the car and I had to modify the metal retaining clip in order for it to reach over the tab and lock in. Make sure you lubricate the rubber O rings with Vaseline or some kind of rubber grease so they fit back together snuggly. Make sure the metal retaining clip clips in correctly as you don’t want this union flying off on the motorway late at night ( I spent 30 minutes trying to get this clip fitting properly)

Pushing the dash back into position is a bit of a game secure the heater box first, then there is a loose bit of metal which holds the steering column that goes on next (the two 13mm bolts in the wiper linkage recess) however there is a large plastic vent pipe that feeds the driver’s side vent that goes through and around this so you have to fit this metal frame and dash together.

Make sure the radio aerial cable and dash speaker cables are all clipped in, and then you have the worst part of the job reconnecting that heater control cable, this took me 30 minutes upside down in the foot well. It must be easier doing it from the other end. *** You cannot reconnect this cable with the dash in place so don’t leave this till later ***

Once you are confident everything you disconnected is reconnected then push dash home and bolt back in, watch out for that driver’s side air vent pipe. Refit instrument cluster a bit of a fiddle and radio.

Refit steering column and electrical connectors **** Don’t forget to tighten up steering column to rack bolt *****

Top up coolant you don’t lose much.

With doors all closed and ignition key removed reconnect battery.

Check engine starts OK and everything works correctly electric windows, fan, lights, indicators, instrument cluster, radio, heater controls …. Basically everything apart from wipers.

Once your happy all OK continue fitting back all the bits and bobs take the car for a spin check the heater working correctly and top up coolant as required. Check for leaks, if the union between the matrix and the extension pipes is leaking please call Samaritans and stay away from long drops fast moving buses and sharp instruments L

Bit of a marathon took me 5 hours if I was to do it again probably 3 but to be honest won’t be putting my hand up for that again any time soon.
[-] The following 5 users say Thank You to MissSpentYouth for this post:
  • BJanata, dingleberryblue, knownowt, ron, Tomcat3
Wow !!!!!!!!! Thanks for that it will be a massive help for folks needing to do the same job..............
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to geoff for this post:
  • Eyre
(07-12-2015, 07:59 PM)geoff Wrote:  Wow !!!!!!!!!   Thanks for that it will be a massive help for folks needing to do the same job..............

Probably scare them off ....

Actually it is not essential to remove the glove box however does make it easier to get hold of dash to pull it out and push back in. The hinge mech on the glove box was designed by a numpty which makes it very difficult to remove and refit you will need to get your head right into the foot well looking up to see two white plastic hinge pins which can be slid to one side with a flat bladed screw driver. Refit is the reversal of removal only takes twice as long. Allow 10 minutes to remove and 20 to refit yes seriously :-(. Alternatively a good lamp in the foot well and a mirror might work too which might save on your chiropractor bill. This needs fitting before the felt under tray.
Hi Missspentyouth welcome to the forum, that is a cracking write up thanks for taking the time it is bound to help someone in the future.
Are we there yet????? Huh
Ex 1.6hdi van now 3 seater 1.4 multispace
No problem I spent an hour looking for one with no success so thought I best write one.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to MissSpentYouth for this post:
  • ron
Good work top mark's Cool  can a mod put this in a how to Angel
                                     Smile  It's too orangey for crow's It's just for me and my dog  Smile

                                                        Heart Heart Love a lot trust a few  Dodgy

Thanks for this. I'm debating whether to do this for my Berlingo, as the matrix is leaking slightly. Maybe go for the K-seal first!
Don't put any sealers in, they just block everything up & K seal is the worst .
I fitted a matrix yesterday & took a few photos to go with this thread .
Will post them up when I get a chance .
Another " stay away from sealants " from me too ...

My last Berlingo ( 1.9 van ) had a very minor H/Ex leak when I bought it and 4 1/2 yrs later when I sold it all was still the same no worse and no better. An older vehicle can cope with a slightly damp / stained carpet especially a van though I suppose a newer and more expensive car version may elicit a different emotion.

There is some virtue in leaving well lone and keeping a watchful eye ...................
Ok, as promised, here are a few pics from the matrix replacement I just completed. It's not a comprehensive guide, you can forget to take shots once you get stuck in. This will prob put people off more than encourage . The car was a 58 plate 1.6 hdi, in superb condition, the supplying garage had added K seal to fob the owner off, he was not happy .
At the start
[Image: D78874D5-79A3-4516-BB1F-E57F656EC133_zpsunucgy9m.jpg]

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