[Engine] 03 berlingo 1.9 starts and runs but stutters/cuts out when revved over 2k

[Elefantman]

Evening all.
Thanks to those who helped on my previous thread... Seems I'm too used to landys and it was indeed the immobiliser built into the pump. I've swapped the pump over from my old egune andit now starts up and ticks over at about 900rpm with no unusual noises... But try to rev it and it stutters baddly (misfires) at around 2k and belches out white smoke.. And will stall.  It has hardy any power and will stall very easily when put under load.
My first thought is pump timing.. Or the advance solenoid.
I'm pretty confident the belt went on correctly as I guess if its a tooth out it would make more noise and would not tick over so smoothly.
So.. How do inadjust the pump timing slightly and how to test the advance solenoid (it does click alot when you first turn the key on)...
And is there anything else I need to check bearing in mind the engine swap and the fact that almost everything has been disturbed in the engine bay.
All thoughts welcomed...
Cheers Jim

[ron]

Fuel filter blocked? Air leak in fuel line? Valve clearances tight?

[Col]

Ron has some good pointers, but if engine was a known good runner, I would check timing first BTW advance is mechanical. The solonoid is a stop solenoid.

[brodfather11]

it appears that you should have two solenoids on your pump if its still a WJY engine.  One as Col says is a stop solenoid, and another is the  timing solenoid, On mine its a Delphi pump/WJY,  it is down the side away from  the engine and the one on top under the security shield is the stop one.

The advance one pushes a ring inside the pump which advances or retards the timing as decided by the ECU.  On the older pumps the solenoid could be taken out and a finger or safer a screwdriver could be put in to check the ring was free and movable. May have to bleed it after,  on my old one I didn't.  I haven't had to try my present one.

You could  take it out and check it is working, but if as Col says if it was working before then should be allright now.

[daywalker072]

air in fuel  my thought  and  did you take the pump off the support  if yes  timing ?

try gravity feeding the pump : just coke bottle cut underside off   hole in the cap litter smaller than the hose  than hose directly on the pump and for eas  on the other side a wire  so can hang it on your bonnet.

saying that if its air it can be out of  it by now elefantman ?

[Elefantman]

Afternoon all.
Been backnout in the garage.. Checked valve clearances, static timing done and belt rechecked. Flywheel, cam and pump all set/pinned and checked again after turning engine over 8 times.. Was a tiny tiny bit out. Pump bled through. Changed the advance solenoid for another one is got as it was ticking like a mad thing when the ignition turned on.
And.... Nothing... Won't even start now.... Killed the battery so that's on charge...
I'm starting to get grumpy so I've come in for a beer and relax.. Ive done loads of belts on other cars (landys mainly) and never had so much fuss getting it set up... Maybe I've just not got the knack or the fault is something that still eludes me....
Thanks for all the suggestions... Have a great start to 2016!

[polar]

Why did you bleed the pump? Asking just incase some air trapped in there?

[Elefantman]

Just to double check there was no air in the system following removing the fuel lines when lifting/dropping the engine to do the belt and also due to the removal of the advance solenoid...

[polar]

Okay i understand now.

If you have a hand pump type primer the one that is like a round knob on to you push with the palm of your hand - they can split for no reason and leak air into the system by just using them! So check that.

Other than that refit the old advance solenoid because at least it run with that one on.