How I remove the side trim panels inside the boot

[patch]

I made a quick video on removing the side trim panels in the boot so hopefully it is now less of a mystery EDIT: switch on subtitles

[video=youtube]https://youtu.be/TyXPgijQoyk[/video]
Click on the box on the bottom right of video for full screen

EDIT - some notes while I am here:
Having done that, I now remember it wasn't as easy the remove first time round - I will add subtitles to the video. Basically, there is a thick white trim clip that pinged off (I think I ripped it off) and never saw again. This white trim clip is slid into a guide on the back of the panel (see 38 seconds into the video for this guide area on the back of the panel right side of the picture about half way down). The white trim clip is fed into a small hole in the metal bodywork to the left (see 35 seconds in). So I guess at first you can try to slide that panel towards the direction of the tailgate to release the white trim clip from the panel. But I yanked it, and without this clip I suppose its much easier to remove this panel and reattach it.

The trim panel on the right hand side of the boot, you have to be aware of the big round black plastic screw trim clip in the cubby area. It needs to be unscrewed because it attaches to a thin metal bolt protruding from the metal bodywork. Once I removed it (I yanked that too in the end because I couldn't unscrew it without chewing the screwdriver head on it) I placed a round black sticker over it. Without this plastic trim screw the removal of the panel very quick when needed and its still totally secure without it.

[Satellitemark]

Hi patch,
Thanks for the video, its very useful to me, I'm thinking of putting a 12v socket in that side (mirror of the one in the driver's side) and without a Haynes available to show how was worried about damaging the panel.

Mark

[patch]

Hi patch,
Thanks for the video, its very useful to me, I'm thinking of putting a 12v socket in that side (mirror of the one in the driver's side)  and without a Haynes available to show how was worried about damaging the panel.

Mark

Thanks Mark. I went in to the left side boot panel primarily to use the thick white spare permanent live for an underseat active subwoofer. My work so far is 'rough' if you like when it comes to the wiring, just to prove my plan and the hardware worked. Awaiting posi-type connectors and posi-fuse connectors for a clean looking 'proper' job.

Out of interest, why are you adding an accessory in that side. The recessed/cubby hole panel on the right side of the boot conceals the accessory power socket and cabling ready to tap into

[Jed Clampit]

Thank you Patch make it so much better when you see it on video give that man a meddle .

[Satellitemark]

Hi Patch,
My rear seats split 2/1 the single seat (drivers side) will be folded down to make way for a chest cool box to carry medications and food and my Grandson will sit on the double . the coolbox will take the standard rear 12v socket but the boy will want to charge various pads / phone / media players etc, On our summer trip to the black sea in Bulgaria via the black forest and the gros glockner.
I'm trying to get everything ready for the journey, next on the list is roof bars and roof box.

Mark

Sent from my BUSH 5 Android using Tapatalk

[knackerdan]

Great Video! Thanks

[cancunia]

Thanks for the 'how to' & video, I've taken both left & right panels off for a bit of investigation on my 2013 B9 P-Partner. The left side is as described. On the right side, the white plastic stud slides vertically, so lifting the panel up once the other clips are pulled should allow the panel to come off. Unfortunately, there's no 12v accessory wiring on the right that I can see.

[Gadgetman]

Hi Patch,
My rear seats split 2/1 the single seat (drivers side) will be folded down to make way for a chest cool box to carry medications and food and my Grandson will sit on the double . the coolbox will take the standard rear 12v socket but the boy will want to charge various pads / phone / media players etc, On our summer trip to the black sea in Bulgaria via the black forest and the gros glockner.
I'm trying to get everything ready for the journey, next on the list is roof bars and roof box.

If it's just this trip it's needed on, why not jut get a cheap 12V splitter and an extension lead?
(Both are available in most car accessory stores)
Plug the splitter into the 12V socket, and the cooler into oneport of the splitter.
Then plug the extension lead into the other port and tape it down on the floor with duct tape all the way to where the Grandpodling is sitting.

Or, you could remove the centre console, and mount an outlet at the back end of that, and connect it to the wires feeding the regular 12V socket at the dash.
(The back end of the centre console is easily accessible fron the back seat)

If you decide to pull cabling all the way back there, why not also fit an inverter behind the panel?
(I have a 220V AC and 12V connectors in the trunk of my M49. I only have 150W AC, but it's enough to charge a laptop... )
Or at least pull cabling that's thick enough to support an inverter later.

[cancunia]

Hi Patch,
My rear seats split 2/1 the single seat (drivers side) will be folded down to make way for a chest cool box to carry medications and food and my Grandson will sit on the double . the coolbox will take the standard rear 12v socket but the boy will want to charge various pads / phone / media players etc, On our summer trip to the black sea in Bulgaria via the black forest and the gros glockner.
I'm trying to get everything ready for the journey, next on the list is roof bars and roof box.

If it's just this trip it's needed on, why not jut get a cheap 12V splitter and an extension lead?
(Both are available in most car accessory stores)
Plug the splitter into the 12V socket, and the cooler into oneport of the splitter.
Then plug the extension lead into the other port and tape it down on the floor with duct tape all the way to where the Grandpodling is sitting.

Or, you could remove the centre console, and mount an outlet at the back end of that, and connect it to the wires feeding the regular 12V socket at the dash.
(The back end of the centre console is easily accessible fron the back seat)

If you decide to pull cabling all the way back there, why not also fit an inverter behind the panel?
(I have a 220V AC and 12V connectors in the trunk of my M49. I only have 150W AC, but it's enough to charge a laptop... )
Or at least pull cabling that's thick enough to support an inverter later.

I think he's probably back by now .

I like the idea about an inverter though, there's plenty of room behind the RH panel.