Berlingo HDI wont start after replacing pulley

[Mighty]

I had the classic rattling lower pulley on my 2004 berlingo. I took it into my garage thinking i would do a quick oil service at the same time. 

I drove it inside, undid the oil plug, replaced the oil filter refitted the drain plug and filled it back up with oil. I then jacked the car up, loosened the belt tensioner and undid the pulley bolt with a pneumatic impact driver. I wiggled the old pulley off, put the new pulley on all the way and then put the bolt back in and tightened it back up to specifications. Lastly I put the belt back on and unlocked the tensioner.

I got in the car to start it and to my suprise it did not start! It turns over fine, but with no sign of coming alive and no abnormal sounds. I was scratching my head for 2 hours while checking everything I could possibly check. I even took the cam belt cover and starter off to check that the timing marks on the flywheel and camshaft lined up, which they did. Even though I don´t know how anything that I have done could screw up the timing.

Lexia throws 2 fault codes when cranking;

1. permanent fault, cylinder reference signal short circuit between 2 wires or open circuit. 

2. Permanent fault, Fuel pressure signal pressure coherence

I have erased the fault codes and put the old pulley back on, but with the same result. No start and the fault codes comes back while cranking.

This thread seems to be about the same thing, but it never came to a solution: http://www.berlingoforum.co.uk/thread-3582.html

I am completely baffled and have no idea where to go from here. Any ideas? I would be extremely grateful if someone could help me with this!  [Image: eusa_doh.gif] 

Thanks
Geir

[Col]

Sounds like you damaged the crank position sensor

[Mighty]

Thanks. Where is that located on the RHY (siemens) engine? From what I have read about 2.0 hdi engines it is located at the other side of the engine near the flywheel.

[Peter Guy]

Dont quote me on this but im sure i read on the picasso forum that the 2.0HDI engine has a floating keyway on the pulley and you should lock the engine in a certain position before taking it off, otherwise it may not line up properly when refitting causing timing mis match. Don't know if this applies to your engine though, but might be worth checking.

[Mighty]

It does have a keyway, but the key is still in place. As long as the timing hole in the flywheel and cam pulley line up the timing should be fine, correct?

[Col]

Depending on engine, some are in bell housing, and some are behind the pulley you changed



[Image: 14489d1394281819-2005-2-0hdi-crankshaft-...114202.jpg]

[Mighty]

If you look at my crankshaft sprocket how the key is now located.

   

The key is all the way to the left (anti clockwise) in the slot. While on other pictures and youtube videos I have dug up on the internet it is to the right of the slot. The sprocket seems to have some sort of free play or adjustment. I don´t really know why the slot is twice as big as the key.

Can this have anything to do with the problem? I can't imagine that half a tooth off would make the engine refuse to start when I know people have started (and demolished) engines that were several tooth off.

And would the fail code "cylinder reference signal short circuit between 2 wires or open circuit" come up just from a slight timing error? It seems to imply that the sensor is broken or no signal at all.

The crank sensor is not at the pulley on my berlingo.


Edit:
I have now got a hold of the haynes manual, and it does specify:

"The crankshaft timing belt sprocket used with the later type pulley incorporates a wider keyway for the locating woodruff key. When the pulley retaining bolt is slackened, the sprocket is free to turn on the crankshaft within the limits afforded by the wider keyway. This provides a certain degree of lateral movement of the sprocket for accurate adjustment of the belt tension.

It is therefore essential that the flywheel and camshaft are locked in the engine assembly/valve timing position when the pulley bolt is slackened, otherwise the sprockets will turn slightly and the valve timing will be lost"



How would I go about timing this back up? Or am I completely screwed?

[jj9]

It will tell you in the Haynes manual how to time it up, just a case of lining up the timing pin holes and placing the timing pins (drill bits) in place.

From the picture of the sprocket you posted it can only be 1/2 a tooth out at the worst, I doubt any valve damage with that amount of error.

[brajomobil]

Check your CPS sensor or wires. That is your problem.
Without that sensor ECU doesn't know when to open injectors
and engine will not start.
There is no phase tooth connection like on "old" engines.

Best regards,
brajomobil

[jj9]

How you getting on with this problem?