Bought a 2nd hand multispace - Problems!

[Micoclarke]

Hello all, I've just become the proud owner of a Mk1 Berlingo Multispace Forte 1.9d (DW8).

It's not all sunshine and roses however - we have a few problems:

1. Starting struggles - 1st time I started on test drive, no problem. Since I have brought it home it has started to become more difficult to start. It requires quite a lot of cranking and a bit of throttle to get going first thing. After this first start it will start again easily for a few hours. Once started the engine runs fine. I've checked the battery - sitting around 12.5 ignition off, 11.4 ignition on.

2. Crashy suspension - I've just moved from a new car so I wonder if I'm being picky, however the FR and RR suspension is crashy & noisy over road imperfections. What would be the first thing to check?

3. Clutch shunt - Tricky to explain; unless I let the clutch out very smoothly, matching revs, I hear a 'bang' and it feels like the engaging clutch has caused something to shift under the car. I'm not particularly experienced with this sort of thing but I wonder if it's engine/gbox mountings?

4. Rear seats - The hooks that are meant to fix the rear seats to the tailgate floor.. don't. The hooks hover above the fixing point. The pull strings that are used to release the hook look like they are providing too much tension, causing the hooks to be permanently released. Anyone else had this problem?

Now your probably wondering why I bought this car, maybe I'll ask myself the same questions in a few weeks..

Can anyone shed any light on these concerns? I'm not that mechanically experienced but am willing to give any job a go with the right guidance!

Thanks in advance, and sorry for the long read.

[Micoclarke]

I should also add I've done a bit of research into the starting issue. It looks like it could be glowplugs (relay), fuel pump issue, compression issue, valve clearance, battery issue etc.

I'd like to at least diagnose the problem before handing it to a garage, if a lot of work is needed. What things can a newbie like me check?

My Haynes manual is on the way, which should help.

Anyone know a good garage for Blingo near South Shields or Sunderland?

Cheers,

[Tomcat3]

Get yourself a copy of Car Mechanics this month ( April ) as there is an article on a Peugeot 206 fitted with the DW8 engine. It covers starting problems, glow plugs and relays and electrical problems. It may help diagnose one of your problems.

[geoff]

1/ Starting issues most likely valve clearances - measure valves first !!! see item 4
2/ Suspension - front likely to be drop links maybe more wear on other components - see item 4
3/ Clutch issue, maybe mounts maybe driveshafts or worse so see item 4
4/ Before diving in with work and spending money get an MOT done to find the extent of the work / money needed and then you can decide if it is all viable. Paying for a snagging list is easier than crawling around on the floor in my opinion.

[Micoclarke]

1/ Starting issues most likely valve clearances - measure valves first !!!  see item 4
2/ Suspension - front likely to be drop links maybe more wear on other components - see item 4
3/ Clutch issue, maybe mounts maybe driveshafts or worse so see item 4
4/ Before diving in with work and spending money get an MOT done to find the extent of the work / money needed and then you can decide if it is all viable. Paying for a snagging list is easier than crawling around on the floor in my opinion.

I think you're right, it's apparently just had and MOT but it may have been a lenient one by a friend. Just need to find a suitable garage.

[tucker]

The battery should be 14.2 or thereabouts when the car is running. Could be a duff battery or failing alternator.

[ffrenchie]

12.5v is borderline for the battery it should preferably be higher so will not be turning the engine over as fast as it needs. A fully charged battery reads about 12.8 or 12.9v, 12.0v or under is dead flat so you are only just over 50%. If the alternator is turning with the engine running it should give a minimum 13.8v and up to 14.3v. Clunky clutch sounds like worn mounts or it could be the lever at the gearbox end sticking. Suspension noises either swap parts or live with it till something obvious shows up. I thought mine was a drop link but it was bottom arm bushes and the top mount bearing is clunking so it will get done when the weather picks up.

[Wyvern]

Hi,

Yep, battery voltage sounds on the low side, but if it is still capable of "lots of cranking" to try and get things going then it can't be too dead. Prime suspects for me would be 1- glow plugs, and if you suspect they've done 80,000 + miles then change them anyway, followed by 2- glow plug relay.
Drop links are a fave suspension wear point, making some quite rattly/thumpy suspension noises. Quite cheap to buy and replace. Memory tells me that there are two possible types fitted, metal units and plastic so a quick nose underneath should tell which type you're blessed with.
As to the rear seat hook cords, one of mine had broken and I found it fairly simple to replace the "thin twine" with something a bit more substantial. A couple of granny knots later and bingo, all good to go........... so maybe things aren't quite as bad as they first seem.
Good luck,
Les

[geoff]

Yep, battery voltage sounds on the low side, but if it is still capable of "lots of cranking" to try and get things going then it can't be too dead.  

Prime suspects for me would be 1- glow plugs, and if you suspect they've done 80,000 + miles then change them anyway, followed by 2- glow plug relay.

Drop links are a fave suspension wear point, making some quite rattly/thumpy suspension noises. Quite cheap to buy and replace. 

 My 1.9D would crank and start on a very weak battery, if it turns it will pretty much always start with these engines unlike Hdi

Glow plugs - don't just change them ( spend money ) test them for the cost of 30 mins work at home.

Glow plug relay -  don't just change it ( spend money ) test them it for the cost of 30 mins work at home.

Drop links - yes a fave and cheap / easy.

Tailgates and doors rattle so it may not be the rear suspension.

... Anyway OP item 1 .. bet you a fiver it is valve clearances ............................. also with V/V clearances set correctly the engine will start pretty much by just touching the key let alone turning it - been there and done it more than once.

[Micoclarke]

Thanks everyone for the replies so far.

A little update, the starting issue seems to have leveled out (initially I thought it was getting worse) and it consistently needs about 2-3 turns of ignition to get going in the morning - pumping throttle to add fuel seems to make it worse.

The plan is after work today to check the glow plugs and relay with my multimeter, then replace parts if necessary. I'll also clean out the throttle body etc. to make sure everythings running as smoothly as possible. + new fuel & oil filters.

I re-checked the battery yesterday, it's sitting at 12.6 when car is off (no key in ignition) and 14.6 with engine running. According to the numbers you guys have given me that looks alright for the moment, the batteries look expensive so maybe I'll change towards next winter.

I've mostly been working on trim parts (squeaks and rattles so far). Geoff, I've reset the tailgate striker (was loosely fitted) and replaced the white clips holding the tailgate inner trim panel. This seems to have stopped a fair amount of bangs and rattles from the rear!

Wyvern, I thought about changing those thin twines for something else, I'll keep you posted . Yes perhaps the problems aren't quite so bad!

Last thing, the gearbox/engine shunt remains and is probably my biggest issue after the starting problems. After perusing a few more online forums the symptoms seem to be pointing towards an engine mounting issue so I'll get the car jacked up this weekend and have a look.

Got my Haynes manual delivered yesterday, so we're all set.