25-07-2017, 11:45 PM
Had to accept the reality of a leaking matrix at the weekend and replace the damn thing. This thread is the source of all the info I needed:
https://www.berlingoforum.com/thread-12793.html
Thanks to Lighty for his help too
A few additional observations for those doing this job:
*Fully remove the dash. The guide says leave it in place because you can get enough room behind it - don't bother, it's a pain in the arse. For another 10 minutes disconnecting about 10 wires to the dash switches you get way better access to the heater. You won't need to separate the matrix pipes later on, too. Much less worry.
*Disconnecting the passenger airbag wire was annoying though. I broke mine. I still can't figure out how you are supposed to undo it. It went back together though it is a sturdy connection, even with some broken off. It may be possible to leave the dash on the seats with this connected and access everything you need.
*Don't remove the glove box, nothing was attached behind it (though my matrix has been done before, some screws may not be on mine).
*Dash speakers come off easily to disconnect the wire.
*Especially if you have air con: the guide says the heater box won't move because of air con pipes - you can separate it. Two 10mm top and bottom at the back, one 6mm at the front. The matrix section comes away easily and you can thoroughly clean inside it. Mine had a fair bit of water. You may be able to visually inspect the evaporator too, though I didn't do this.
*Disconnecting the heater cables from the heater box is fine, if you remove the metal clips the cables can be moved to allow detachment. Mark where the clip goes along the cable sleeve because this affects the position of the selector knob. On at least one you can adjust the position with everything in place, which I ended up doing. I'd suggest testing the knobs full range with the dash test fitted to make any adjustments easier.
*You can access the third dash bolt under the wiper without fully removing the wiper motor. If you just undo the motor mount there is enough access under it. It was annoying but I couldn't figure out how the motor actually came out fully before I just gave up and fiddled the nut off with the motor in place (ooo er).
*When replacing the dash, do the passenger door reveal hex bolt first. The captive nuts on the chassis would easily come off and I had to pull the dash away several times to reattach it. I found running the nut up and down the thread made it easier to get on without the bolt torquing the nut and breaking it off the chassis. The drivers side nut can be reattached with the dash in place. Still annoying though.
*When replacing the steering column, don't do what I did and do up the column to shaft pinch bolt before I did up the 4 bolts that hold the column to the chassis. When I did the bolts up later the column was way too tight against the lower shaft. The steering felt weird on my test drive like there was no assistance in places. I think the column position was causing binding in the UJs. I realised my mistake and undid the pinch bolt. The column and wheel can slide up and down around an inch and I found halfway along that travel worked. I did up the pinch bolt and the steering was cured, back to its old self on the following test drive.
*As described by the guide, the engine to matrix union was a bit of a bastard. Grease the o-rings and swear a bit and it'll clip on right in the end.
*Get a genuine matrix. The bolt holes line up properly and it'll last longer than the three years my old pattern part managed.
£110 Inc vat for mine.
*Check if your coolant needs changing. Why is your matrix leaking?
My car is a 2007 1.6 16v forte. Descriptions of much older models sound exactly the same.
Took me ages (7 hours total) but I enjoyed it. It was fun finding what goes on behind the fascia and how it's all packaged. I hope these observations help others do the job!
https://www.berlingoforum.com/thread-12793.html
Thanks to Lighty for his help too
A few additional observations for those doing this job:
*Fully remove the dash. The guide says leave it in place because you can get enough room behind it - don't bother, it's a pain in the arse. For another 10 minutes disconnecting about 10 wires to the dash switches you get way better access to the heater. You won't need to separate the matrix pipes later on, too. Much less worry.
*Disconnecting the passenger airbag wire was annoying though. I broke mine. I still can't figure out how you are supposed to undo it. It went back together though it is a sturdy connection, even with some broken off. It may be possible to leave the dash on the seats with this connected and access everything you need.
*Don't remove the glove box, nothing was attached behind it (though my matrix has been done before, some screws may not be on mine).
*Dash speakers come off easily to disconnect the wire.
*Especially if you have air con: the guide says the heater box won't move because of air con pipes - you can separate it. Two 10mm top and bottom at the back, one 6mm at the front. The matrix section comes away easily and you can thoroughly clean inside it. Mine had a fair bit of water. You may be able to visually inspect the evaporator too, though I didn't do this.
*Disconnecting the heater cables from the heater box is fine, if you remove the metal clips the cables can be moved to allow detachment. Mark where the clip goes along the cable sleeve because this affects the position of the selector knob. On at least one you can adjust the position with everything in place, which I ended up doing. I'd suggest testing the knobs full range with the dash test fitted to make any adjustments easier.
*You can access the third dash bolt under the wiper without fully removing the wiper motor. If you just undo the motor mount there is enough access under it. It was annoying but I couldn't figure out how the motor actually came out fully before I just gave up and fiddled the nut off with the motor in place (ooo er).
*When replacing the dash, do the passenger door reveal hex bolt first. The captive nuts on the chassis would easily come off and I had to pull the dash away several times to reattach it. I found running the nut up and down the thread made it easier to get on without the bolt torquing the nut and breaking it off the chassis. The drivers side nut can be reattached with the dash in place. Still annoying though.
*When replacing the steering column, don't do what I did and do up the column to shaft pinch bolt before I did up the 4 bolts that hold the column to the chassis. When I did the bolts up later the column was way too tight against the lower shaft. The steering felt weird on my test drive like there was no assistance in places. I think the column position was causing binding in the UJs. I realised my mistake and undid the pinch bolt. The column and wheel can slide up and down around an inch and I found halfway along that travel worked. I did up the pinch bolt and the steering was cured, back to its old self on the following test drive.
*As described by the guide, the engine to matrix union was a bit of a bastard. Grease the o-rings and swear a bit and it'll clip on right in the end.
*Get a genuine matrix. The bolt holes line up properly and it'll last longer than the three years my old pattern part managed.
£110 Inc vat for mine.*Check if your coolant needs changing. Why is your matrix leaking?
My car is a 2007 1.6 16v forte. Descriptions of much older models sound exactly the same.
Took me ages (7 hours total) but I enjoyed it. It was fun finding what goes on behind the fascia and how it's all packaged. I hope these observations help others do the job!
![[-]](http://berlingoforum.b-cdn.net/images/collapse.png)
