Posts: 2
Threads: 1
Thanks Received: 6 in 1 posts
Thanks Given: 0
Joined: Aug 2013
Location: Ireland
Reputation:
0
Hi all,
I do apologise if this question has already been answered. I have exhausted a search and can't find anything.
I need to replace the universal joint on the steering column where it meets the rack, and would appreciate any tips before I start the job. I know the O.E part number is 4103H5.
It looks like I un-clamp the joint from the rack and then undo the pinch bolt on the column and slide the joint shaft up the column to release it from the rack. I also have to fit and tie rod and track rod end. It looks like I will have better access to the rack when I have the tie rod and track rod end removed.
•
Posts: 2
Threads: 1
Thanks Received: 6 in 1 posts
Thanks Given: 0
Joined: Aug 2013
Location: Ireland
Reputation:
0
Just an update on the job above. It wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Refitting only took a matter of minutes after an hour or so removing the joint.
I jacked the van up on an axle stand. Inside I removed the pinch bolt on the steering column. 13mm nut and 13mm bolt.
Underneath I removed the bolt on the joint to the rack. Again a 13mm nut. Pried down the Collar washer and pushed out the bolt.
This is where it got awkward. The splines on the upper steering column were very dry, so plenty of lube spray, GT85 or WD40. I used GT85. I clamped a vise grips on the lower shaft and tapped it with a small lump hammer to free it. Once it was free I lubed the splines with grease. After this removal was straight forward. I slid the joint up towards the steering wheel as far as it would go and manipulated the joint up and out through the bulkhead into the drivers footwell.
Refitting was a lot easier and fitting the grommet into the bulkhead took a couple of minutes. Just had to make sure that the flaps sticking into the engine bay were pushed in towards the shaft when pushed into place. A firm shove ensured that the grommet snapped into place.
I hope someone else finds this beneficial and is able to save some head scratching time!!
Posts: 213
Threads: 68
Thanks Received: 26 in 22 posts
Thanks Given: 22
Joined: May 2012
Location: Near Basingstoke
Reputation:
2
Great, thanks for your write up Leppy80..
How did you know the UJ needed changing ? What symptoms / fault were you experiencing ?
My 'lingo has a 'knock' when steering left to right and feels like a heavy thud when the steering wheel is rocked from side to side. Is this the same as your experience ?
Did you fit a genuine part ?
Black Hyundai i30 1.6CRDI 2011
Silver 1.9D Mutispace desire 2004 DW8B non Turbo..
White 1.9D Van 2005 DW8B non turbo..
Silver MGF 1.8 16v 1999
•
Posts: 1,726
Threads: 41
Thanks Received: 405 in 362 posts
Thanks Given: 134
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Galloway
Reputation:
31
AJ
I'd check your road springs for the ' knock' and you can get heavy thuds from a broken spring.
if it is broken then change the top strut bearing while your there.
2020 Rifter 1.5 allure
2010 B9 red XTR w a v.
2001 1.9d DW8B white Berlingo
2005 2.l green Berlingo
2001 1.9d DW8B white Berlingo
berlingo 1.4 red multispace
1993 xud 1.9 red partner
•
Posts: 213
Threads: 68
Thanks Received: 26 in 22 posts
Thanks Given: 22
Joined: May 2012
Location: Near Basingstoke
Reputation:
2
Cheers Brodfather...
I have replaced the top mounts and bearings already but a great suggestion..
I did get some help for this one ( the Wife took some time off cooking and cleaning ) and by rocking the steering wheel discovered the Lower U/J is the culprit... It is quite scary to think that all that is keeping the steering wheel in contact with the road is a flimsy looking joint getting dried out.. I'm going to put a grease filled bag or something over the new one when I fit it..
Bloody Seasons greetings means nothing when your car breaks down and the parts will not be available until after 3rd of Jan... Oh well crack open a bottle I say...
Black Hyundai i30 1.6CRDI 2011
Silver 1.9D Mutispace desire 2004 DW8B non Turbo..
White 1.9D Van 2005 DW8B non turbo..
Silver MGF 1.8 16v 1999
Posts: 35
Threads: 11
Thanks Received: 2 in 2 posts
Thanks Given: 2
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: UK
Reputation:
0
has anyone else replaced the UJ rather than just lubed it? Big improvements? I see there are some generic parts available at 30 quid rather than 90 for the Peugeot one. Any thoughts?
•
Posts: 35
Threads: 11
Thanks Received: 2 in 2 posts
Thanks Given: 2
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: UK
Reputation:
0
23-04-2024, 10:50 AM
(This post was last modified: 23-04-2024, 03:38 PM by pondweed.
Edit Reason: update
)
After lubing a year ago and problem subsiding, I'm now getting more advanced wear, I think. 119,000m.
Just another heads up as to whether anyone has tried the £30 pattern part, or found the original part discounted anywhere? (I hear from Fish Brothers that they cannot supply the H4 variant any longer - presumably LHD? but can still do the H5 at £150. I've just found one for 105 on ebay. Beware of the small print for the H4 pattern parts on line... seems the steering wheel will be 1/4 out and need placing on spine again to centre.)
Posts: 35
Threads: 11
Thanks Received: 2 in 2 posts
Thanks Given: 2
Joined: Oct 2012
Location: UK
Reputation:
0
Just done the changeover. New OEM part for RHD. 119k. Play on lower joint of the UJ. Upper part moves less and was extremely stiff. Leppy's howto is excellent. Just got to crack the putting the nasty supergrommet back in now. I wonder if its possible to re-UJ the original unit...
Lower 13mm is a nut onto loose bolt with the spring retainer
Upper, under dash is a captive nut, so just a bolt. No washers on either.
•