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Wire throug the front door
How the hell can i Get a speaker wire through the door loom?
ITS so tight and no room.  2009

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Are you replacing the existing speaker wires, with new ones then? If you are you could at the speaker end cut the terminals off the existing wires and splice your new speaker cable to the old [existing] speaker cables cover them with a small amount of tape and then pull the old cables out of the loom you have exposed and it it pull the new cables through. Hope that makes sense!
Use silicone spray as lube. Fine wire or old cassette tape and a vacumecleaner to install a pull wire.
(21-08-2017, 08:02 PM)berreke Wrote:  Use silicone spray as lube.  Fine wire or old cassette tape and a vacumecleaner to install a pull wire.

I had similar issue, when trying to get cable from crossover in the door to tweeters. I gave up after an hour and instaled the tweeters into door panel behind mirror.
2013 Peugeot Partner 1.6 eHDI Automatic
Id go with the "Old wire" methode if possible, if else;

In the field I work (IT and electronics) we have special nylon spring for this problem.

Not sure what its called in English (sorry im dutch) but it looks like this:

A cheap one will only cost you a few pound
2007 Peugeot Partner Zenith RIP Sad
2010 Seat Ibiza ST 
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to mission for this post:
  • Tomcat3
More important question, why do you want to replace the factory wiring in the first place, even with a semi decent amp the factory wire will be fine?? What are you replacing the wire? It will make no difference to the sound produced by the speaker overall, genuinely curious??
I've never seen one test done blind where anyone, audiophiles, car audio nuts, high end home audio nuts could tell the difference between cables (I believe in one case they did back to back blind tests with a coat hanger wire vs a mid range speaker cable and no one could tell the difference, if it's for a 50watt rms amp for example that's not a huge amount of amps, roughly a maximum of 14v and 3.5a roughly at four ohms which a speaker isn't in reality when it's playing, it will always be less, so a 1-1.5mm cable will be fine, which is probably what a car stereo speaker will be run off

If this is for mid drivers in a door with crossovers just use the factory wiring from stereo to speaker and run an input to a crossover from the amp or stereo and then a wire from crossover to tweeter in the dash, and one from crossover to the back of the stereo to tie into the back of the stereo for the mid
(29-08-2017, 07:20 AM)doofer Wrote:  You might find it difficult to open the door if a coat hanger was used :-)

The hifi world is full of dodgy claims and mugs with too much money and not enough sense.  There's some science at the root of it, but the extent they take it to is just downright stupid.  The fact is that something that costs more sounds better to the one who's emptied their wallet!

This cable must sound amazing!...

If it's not expensive enough already, you can pay extra for a "Burn-In" or "Deep Cryogenic Treatment"

People believe this garbage though - just read the customer reviews (if they're genuine of course).

These companies must laugh their heads off at their customers - surely they must know that they're running a scam.

You are funny in a twisted way Doffer  Big Grin Big Grin

You have a very sensible and good point though, i have mates (the term mates used in this term to explain idiots who are NOT my mates but they think they are) who say listen to this it cost me £££££ - me "yes ist great" Me really its just loud! 

I must be getting old - mind you i still like a bit of Motorhead on my ceap standard Berlingo van set up  Huh Big Grin Big Grin
It's amazing what people can get sold!! As long as speaker cable is of a decent quality and a reasonable size it makes zero difference as far as I'm concerned, we used to do back to backs with the most expensive leads vs the mid range stuff in my old job at a car audio place in the showroom and we couldn't tell any difference, we'd even get the reps to distinguish between there flagship for better sound and a 15-20 quid rca lead and they always declinedor failed to be able to... make of that what you will and they were pedalling this stuff out
I just buzzed out the cable from behind the headunit with a 9v battery to identify it and then joint it there to go to the amp as I presume thats what you are doing. Tried getting a cable through but gave up didn't want to mess with that rubber cable guide.

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