Headlights on all the time

[Celtic Pagan]

Hello all.
I'm new to the forum and have been trying to rectify this problem on my 2004 2.0Hdi enterprise van. 

It initially started about a year or 18 months ago and symptoms were that the headlights would come on as soon as I turned on the ignition but the indicators wouldn't work unless the light switch on the stalk was in the on position. 

I did some research and the problem seemed to suggest that there might be water damage in the BSI unit. As I knew the floor on the driver side was wet when I bought the van I was convinced it was due to water ingress. I later discovered there was a leak on the radio antenna which I sealed.

I removed the fuse box and BSI unit to inspect it and expected to find all kinds of corrosion and staining but there was nothing. I decided to give it a spray of WD40 and put it back together because I'd not seen any evidence that there was any water damage. I thought once it dried out properly and the penetrating oil did it's job any remaining dampness would disappear. It seems to work and I had about a year or so of reliable use although every now and again, if I'd not used the van for a few days it would show the same fault. A good run with the heater full on usually did the trick and I ignored the problem.

Recently however the problem has come back following another leak in the same place which is now covered with sikkaflex and completely sealed. This time though it's not clearing and one day it's fine the next its back the same. I've had it on a fault code reader which didn't show anything and I checked the pink and white wires and all connections etc again for corrosion but didn't find anything wrong. I've now got the fuse box/BSI unit apart again to see if drying it out on a radiator overnight might do the trick but I'm not hopeful of success. 

I read somewhere online that it was possible to replace the fuse box side of the BSI by purchasing a used unit and unsoldering the 16 pin connecting blocks between the 2 boards and fitting the presumably working board from the replacement unit. It's not possible to replace the complete fuse box as the BSI side of it has a unique code to the vehicle but this would be a relatively cheap alternative to going down the reconditioned route and having to get all new coding etc done. The trouble is I can't seem to find the article I saw and wondered if anyone on here could point me in the right direction or indeed advise me on how exactly to go about doing the swap.

The van is only worth about £500 but it seems a shame to have to scrap it for the sake of a bit of solder. 

Thanks in advance.
Ian

[V6BOY]

Get a second hand ECU,BSI and transponder chip (key) from a donor vehicle so no coding needed.

[Celtic Pagan]

Get a second hand ECU,BSI and transponder chip (key) from a donor vehicle so no coding needed.

Hi and thanks for the reply. 
Would that mean I would need to replace all the locks and ignition barrel? 

Have you done it yourself?

[cancunia]

I've not done a BSI & ECU swap so can't answer directly but there are a few posts on here on the subject. Your locks should not need to be altered but you will probably need to re-register the keys & remote so the new ECU recognises the transponders.
Your problem does sound like it's damp related, but if not the BSI, perhaps the ECU connections by the battery and that large fusebox thing between the battery & radiator would be worth checking.

[Celtic Pagan]

I've not done a BSI & ECU swap so can't answer directly but there are a few posts on here on the subject. Your locks should not need to be altered but you will probably need to re-register the keys & remote so the new ECU recognises the transponders.
Your problem does sound like it's damp related, but if not the BSI, perhaps the ECU connections by the battery and that large fusebox thing between the battery & radiator would be worth checking.

Hi cancunia and thanks for the input.

I checked all the fuse boxes, all 3 of them, and the usual wiring faults again yesterday. I've had the fusebox/BSI unit on a radiator for 24 hours and replaced this morning to no avail. If anything it's worse. There's been little or no rain for about 3 days and the van interior is bone dry.

What I was originally considering was swapping only the fuse and relay side of the unit. It's joined to the other half of the board by two 16 pin connectors. The BSI/ECU would remain the same so there was no need to program anything. 

V6BOY then suggested I could replace the complete Fuse box/BSI unit as long as I had the transponder key for the new unit. At least I think that's what he was suggesting. I wanted him to elaborate a bit because I wasn't sure if I needed to change the locks and ignition or just tape the key next to the ignition barrel. If that's the case it's a simple fix and I'm surprised it's not common knowledge. The van is my lifeline in this remote part of the world but it's just not worth going down the BSI refurbishment route due to the expense and because it affects the indicators it will fail the MOT in May. 

I can get a replacement part easily enough but the transponder key might not be so easy.

[mikeB]

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago affecting central locking. I ended up separating the 2 boards in the BSI and found the connections between the two were suspect. You are correct in assuming the servo board can be replaced leaving the board with all the settings and VIN in place.

See this thread, especially end of page 1 onwards

https://www.berlingoforum.com/thread-2370.html

Good luck

Mike

[Celtic Pagan]

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago affecting central locking. I ended up separating the 2 boards in the BSI and found the connections between the two were suspect. You are correct in assuming the servo board can be replaced leaving the board with all the settings and VIN in place.

See this thread, especially end of page 1 onwards

https://www.berlingoforum.com/thread-2370.html

Good luck

Mike

Thanks for the reply Mike. My central locking only locks the 2 sliding doors. It stopped working on the rest about the same time of the original water leak. I assumed it was just a wiring issue but now I'm not so sure. The other (unrelated) problem is that the drivers door and the nearside sliding door tumblers are knackered. The drivers only started after a recent heavy frost and thankfully security isn't much of an issue here. 

I'm currently trying to get hold of a fuse box and transponder key so I can try replacing the complete unit. Failing that I'll Dr  Frankenstein it.

[V6BOY]

Get a second hand ECU,BSI and transponder chip (key) from a donor vehicle so no coding needed.

Hi and thanks for the reply. 
Would that mean I would need to replace all the locks and ignition barrel? 

Have you done it yourself?

I can confirm I have done this myself, no need to change locks ignition barrel ect. You can remove the transponder chip from the donor key and replace it in your original key.

[Celtic Pagan]

Get a second hand ECU,BSI and transponder chip (key) from a donor vehicle so no coding needed.

Hi and thanks for the reply. 
Would that mean I would need to replace all the locks and ignition barrel? 

Have you done it yourself?

I can confirm I have done this myself, no need to change locks ignition barrel ect. You can remove the transponder chip from the donor key and replace it in your original key.

Thanks for that but can you please tell me how to get the key apart. It looks like the little rectangular block for the transponder is in the front of the plastic part and there are 2 tiny holes on the side where the metal part goes into the plastic. I don't want to go in blind as I only have the one key and it's already bent so I'm afraid to straighten it in case it breaks.

[Gravity]

Take your key to a local key maker and get another one cut - before it breaks! True, it will not work on remote, but it will open the locked car in emergency.

My wife can't drive, but she often needs to get into the car - so she has this type of key.

Gravity