Fuses What A Pain
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Have I overlooked a much easier way of doing it? Changing a (cigarette lighter/power socket) fuse this afternoon turned out to be a bigger job than I expected, I had to take the complete glovebox out to get at it.
It made me smile when I found the spare fuses and the plastic fuse puller in the fuse box cover then had to get my torx screwdrivers out to take the glovebox out, not exactly a side of the road in the dark sort of job like its been on other cars.
.. unless I'm missing a much easier way of doing it.
Matt
Matt
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I needed to replace the cigarette lighter/power socket fuse, the whole fuse panel is deep inside, inaccessible behind a loom even after taking the fuse cover off. again .. unless I'm missing something obvious.
Matt
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(28-03-2018, 06:27 PM)Matt Haigh Wrote: Have I overlooked a much easier way of doing it? Changing a (cigarette lighter/power socket) fuse this afternoon turned out to be a bigger job than I expected, I had to take the complete glovebox out to get at it.
It made me smile when I found the spare fuses and the plastic fuse puller in the fuse box cover then had to get my torx screwdrivers out to take the glovebox out, not exactly a side of the road in the dark sort of job like its been on other cars.
.. unless I'm missing a much easier way of doing it.
Matt
Hi Matt, Just come to the same problem, for the same reason. To replace the 30 Amp F9 fuse. When you say you removed the complete glovebox, do you mean the left side of the lower bulhead too? The chunk going to the door frame. That F9 fuse is really way to the left isn't it. Typical Citroen/Peugeot design!
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This a oldish post but I wonder what happened to paramans post posted today at 1.15 pm (?) according to the latest thread box. Its went missing . Anyone read it?
But when I post this the reference to paramans post will also disappear ! .....
Catch 22 !
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(28-03-2018, 06:27 PM)Matt Haigh Wrote: Have I overlooked a much easier way of doing it? Changing a (cigarette lighter/power socket) fuse this afternoon turned out to be a bigger job than I expected, I had to take the complete glovebox out to get at it.
It made me smile when I found the spare fuses and the plastic fuse puller in the fuse box cover then had to get my torx screwdrivers out to take the glovebox out, not exactly a side of the road in the dark sort of job like its been on other cars.
.. unless I'm missing a much easier way of doing it.
Matt
Solved it. Well, provide you don't mind getting low down. I removed all the glovebox bolts seen (10) and still could not remove it. So, a bit late in the day consulted the Haynes manual on removal. Oh! There is a bottom section to remove first! 2 of those plastic fastenings where you pull back a tab on the top of them which allows them to pull out. Then 3 clips to unclip and out comes the underplate. Not without a bit of wriggling I must say. At this point I shone a light up and could see and access all the fuses. The left hand ones are still a fiddle but much easier than through the glovebox opening. I used thin nosed pliers to pull the F9 30 amp mini fuse out and to partially replace. I replaced it with, according to my Tepee Handbook, a spare plugged into F15. Tested 12v sockets front and back. Working again. Job done. Well not quite! Replaced the bottom plate and all those removed glovebox screws. Went to lock the car and no clunks from the locks!! Found fuse diagram in Haynes and discovered F15... the so called spare...was in fact for the locks. So much for official PSA handbook mis information. Had to go to town and buy a new fuse after all. At least I knew what to do on my return. Quicker the second time but, as you say, not a nice on the road job. The F9 fuse blew because a cool box supply plug tip and fuse came apart on taking it out of the rear 12v socket and was not noticed. The bits must have shorted the socket next time the car was used. So a good idea to always check on 12v plug integrity before using!
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(06-06-2018, 05:10 PM)paraman Wrote: (28-03-2018, 06:27 PM)Matt Haigh Wrote: Have I overlooked a much easier way of doing it? Changing a (cigarette lighter/power socket) fuse this afternoon turned out to be a bigger job than I expected, I had to take the complete glovebox out to get at it.
It made me smile when I found the spare fuses and the plastic fuse puller in the fuse box cover then had to get my torx screwdrivers out to take the glovebox out, not exactly a side of the road in the dark sort of job like its been on other cars.
.. unless I'm missing a much easier way of doing it.
Matt
Solved it. Well, provide you don't mind getting low down. I removed all the glovebox bolts seen (10) and still could not remove it. So, a bit late in the day consulted the Haynes manual on removal. Oh! There is a bottom section to remove first! 2 of those plastic fastenings where you pull back a tab on the top of them which allows them to pull out. Then 3 clips to unclip and out comes the underplate. Not without a bit of wriggling I must say. At this point I shone a light up and could see and access all the fuses. The left hand ones are still a fiddle but much easier than through the glovebox opening. I used thin nosed pliers to pull the F9 30 amp mini fuse out and to partially replace. I replaced it with, according to my Tepee Handbook, a spare plugged into F15. Tested 12v sockets front and back. Working again. Job done. Well not quite! Replaced the bottom plate and all those removed glovebox screws. Went to lock the car and no clunks from the locks!! Found fuse diagram in Haynes and discovered F15... the so called spare...was in fact for the locks. So much for official PSA handbook mis information. Had to go to town and buy a new fuse after all. At least I knew what to do on my return. Quicker the second time but, as you say, not a nice on the road job. The F9 fuse blew because a cool box supply plug tip and fuse came apart on taking it out of the rear 12v socket and was not noticed. The bits must have shorted the socket next time the car was used. So a good idea to always check on 12v plug integrity before using!
Thanks for that paraman, I'll be sure to test out your process soon when I've got toput a piggy-back fuse in for a dash-cam I'm planning.
Matt
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(06-06-2018, 05:10 PM)paraman Wrote: (28-03-2018, 06:27 PM)Matt Haigh Wrote: Have I overlooked a much easier way of doing it? Changing a (cigarette lighter/power socket) fuse this afternoon turned out to be a bigger job than I expected, I had to take the complete glovebox out to get at it.
It made me smile when I found the spare fuses and the plastic fuse puller in the fuse box cover then had to get my torx screwdrivers out to take the glovebox out, not exactly a side of the road in the dark sort of job like its been on other cars.
.. unless I'm missing a much easier way of doing it.
Matt
Solved it. Well, provide you don't mind getting low down. I removed all the glovebox bolts seen (10) and still could not remove it. So, a bit late in the day consulted the Haynes manual on removal. Oh! There is a bottom section to remove first! 2 of those plastic fastenings where you pull back a tab on the top of them which allows them to pull out. Then 3 clips to unclip and out comes the underplate. Not without a bit of wriggling I must say. At this point I shone a light up and could see and access all the fuses. The left hand ones are still a fiddle but much easier than through the glovebox opening. I used thin nosed pliers to pull the F9 30 amp mini fuse out and to partially replace. I replaced it with, according to my Tepee Handbook, a spare plugged into F15. Tested 12v sockets front and back. Working again. Job done. Well not quite! Replaced the bottom plate and all those removed glovebox screws. Went to lock the car and no clunks from the locks!! Found fuse diagram in Haynes and discovered F15... the so called spare...was in fact for the locks. So much for official PSA handbook mis information. Had to go to town and buy a new fuse after all. At least I knew what to do on my return. Quicker the second time but, as you say, not a nice on the road job. The F9 fuse blew because a cool box supply plug tip and fuse came apart on taking it out of the rear 12v socket and was not noticed. The bits must have shorted the socket next time the car was used. So a good idea to always check on 12v plug integrity before using!
If Anyone else has problems changing the F9 ( or any adjacent fuses ) the answer is a small pair of forceps which will lock on to the offending fuse without slipping off ( as happens with long nosed pliers ), I recently had to change the F9 fuse which had blown due to a faulty item connected with the cigar lighter socket & was starting to despair as this fuse is nigh on impossible to change without dismantling the underplate when I remembered I had a pair of forceps in my toolbox & Hey Presto ! job done in a few minutes ! If you can live without the accessory socket for a few days you can pick a pair up on Ebay for a couple of quid & they're a good item to keep in your toolkit !
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(28-03-2018, 06:27 PM)Matt Haigh Wrote: Have I overlooked a much easier way of doing it? Changing a (cigarette lighter/power socket) fuse this afternoon turned out to be a bigger job than I expected, I had to take the complete glovebox out to get at it.
It made me smile when I found the spare fuses and the plastic fuse puller in the fuse box cover then had to get my torx screwdrivers out to take the glovebox out, not exactly a side of the road in the dark sort of job like its been on other cars.
.. unless I'm missing a much easier way of doing it.
Matt
I have had the exact same issue, i started to undo all the screws etc, until i had a go with long nose pliers worked a treat i also managed to lose the little useless plastic tool they give.
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