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Wireless charger.
#1
Hi, could someone help me solve this. I've connected a wireless charger to my Berlingo, via the 12v socket. I simply added another socket, and plugged in the charger to it. It all works fine, no fuses blown. I never use the original socket, so in effect, I've not really changed anything.

The problem I'm having, is on long journeys, I'm unsure of the time, but longer than 30mins, the car turns off the 12v supply. At first I thought the fuse was blown, but I checked it, and it wasn't. As it was night, I locked the car, the following morning, unlocked it, and turned the ignition, socket working again. 

Can someone explain why its turning off the supply, after a certain length of time, and how do I stop it doing that? 

This car is driving me up the wall. The radio has a variable delay  on turning on and off. 

All I want is hands free, and in-car charger. These are simple standard things. I'm actually using the equipment, less a new iso harness, which worked fine in my other car.

 
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#2
Sounds like the timeout for safe mode is triggered and shuts off the 12v to the sockets, radio so battery doesn't go flat leaving you unable to start. This should only happen when the motor is not running. Should not happen when motor is running and alternator is providing juice. System seems to think you're drawing power from battery and battery is not being charged. Does this happen when the wireless charger is plugged into the native 12v socket? How is this second socket wired into the system?
2010 Berlingo Multispace HDi 110 with FAP.  Persamos green.

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#3
Hi, thanks for the reply. The car going into eco mode was my first thought, after a blown fuse. It doesn't say eco mode on the display, though, which it usually does when the engine isn't running, and the car detects a battery drain. I've not tried it directly in the native socket. I will do, tho. The 2nd socket is simply wired in parallel. So, a splice from the live, and a one from ground, going to respective connectors on the 2nd socket. Some additional information, I forgot to put in the initial post. On the adapter, that plugs into the socket, there are two USB ports, for the charge lead. One is 1 amp and the other is 2.1 amps.
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#4
I've tested the alternator, as thought it could've been that, but it's fine. Its running at 14.2v. And the battery is 12.2v without the engine running.
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#5
Blooming computers eh !

The standard approach would be to visit the dealership and shell out / cry into your wallet.

If it was me I'd take the existing socket out of circuit and then run a seperate 12v fused supply and earth return line direct from the battery.
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#6
Is there any how to threads on here. I'm happy to give it a crack, with a bit instruction. Could it be possible the charger is draining too much current? I have noticed the phone getting extremely hot, lately.
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#7
Smile 
It can't be pulling too much current, or you would have other issues while driving it. My guess is the connections aren't good, try just using the original socket mate. As the car has 2 anyway, why did you add another one? 

Mine stay on constantly when the van is running, I have a dashcam, a phone charger and a hands free radio link plugged in all the time and it never shuts off while running. I do have the circuit diagram for the sockets so I'll post it in a minute for you.

A straight fused link from the battery will work but won't switch off with the ignition so maybe not so useful.
My Van: 2007 1.6 HDi 600 - currently on 62,000 miles  Sleepy
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#8
Smile 
Ok here are the schematics, shows the full system for aux sockets right back to the BSI which may help you trouble shoot it.


Attached Files
.zip   Aux_Circuits.zip (Size: 296.8 KB / Downloads: 2)
My Van: 2007 1.6 HDi 600 - currently on 62,000 miles  Sleepy
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#9
I added the additional socket, as it's tucked under the centre console, so the wiring is hidden. I used the socket, as it was the simplest way, of connecting the USB cable, to the power source, via an adapter. This method worked fine in my other cars, which is why I used it again. The splices, are soldered, so I don't think there's a loose connection, although I will check. I am having problems with this cars electrics. I posted another thread, regarding the radio. Everything was working fine, a few weeks ago, when I first done the work, then it just started playing up. The date, on the clock jumped forward by 11yrs. The radio acquired a delay while turning it on and off. I've sent the iso adapter back, and waiting for its replacement. I'm not particularly expecting to see that resolve the issue, as I don't think that the adapter is at fault. Anyways, I'm getting sidetracked, I'll check the connections, and the original socket, tomorrow. I also have another adapter, I can try.
I definitely want the supply switched, last thing I need is a dead battery, as the key doesn't work in the door locks. Another problem I have... How to get a replacement original door key, when I don't have the code.
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#10
I should add, I think I said in the original post, but if I didn't, I'll clarify. The original sockets, lighter and 12v socket ceased to work, as well as the charger. All power was cut. It wasn't until I locked the car, left it over night, unlocked it, and turned the ignition, all sockets resumed power. It wasn't just the charger that stopped working.
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