Brake Pipe & Unions
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The advice on the classic car Forums I use is to use Kunifer and not to use copper !
My own advice would be to use Kunifer.
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Has anyone actually got first hand experience of copper brake pipes fracturing though? Theoretically it's possible but I'm yet to see anyone with first hand examples of it happening on a car other than second hand anecdotes read on the internet.
It seems that the advice against copper comes from a particular Australian province which bans the use of copper brake pipes - it's an MOT failure apparently. But when you consider that until about 25 years ago US law mean't all cars had to have sealed beam headlights, anything else was illegal it doesn't mean being illegal in certain markets goes hand in hand with it being dangerous.
I had an old Volvo that had copper pipes from the factory...
So long as the pipe used is automotive brake pipe and not something bought cheap from a plumbers merchants and it's supported properly I can't see why it would break.
I would avoid brass unions though, they're great in theory but in practice it's too soft, it cross threads and strips threads too easily on such small fittings. Stainless ends would do, but in reality the mild steel ends rarely cause a problem, they just look scruffy.
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(18-12-2018, 04:29 PM)geoff Wrote: The advice on the classic car Forums I use is to use Kunifer and not to use copper !
My own advice would be to use Kunifer.
Aye, the classic car crew would say that as they're a bit "Whitworth" and love to make their lives harder.
There's nowt wrong with copper, used on loads of cars and never ever had any problems.
.
My vehicle .... 2006 (m59) Berlingo Multispace Desire - 1.6 HDI 92
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Now't wrong with over engineering and anyway who needs that mamby pamby Metric stuff .......
Queer stuff that Metric can't beat the " real thing " go Whitworth young man !
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Yeah! Stuff metric! Nothing like a 3/8" male fitting into the M10 female for a rush of blood to the head.
(Read that as a Once Upon a Time Series 2a Land Rover Faux Pas by Yours Truly)
Trouble is I have a drawer of Imperial and Whitworth spanners that just get to sleep these days.....
I know - Br*xit! Let's make Britain Imperial Again? Whitworth for PM! Now there's a camp-pain.
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Seriously - used both pure copper & kunifer and cannot see much benefit in the latter. First flares I did in copper are now (cough) 23 years old and they've not shattered, stretched or died in any other way. Probably outlive the Landie.
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I'm a big fan of over engineering stuff, but only if it doesn't hinder the job.
We've been hindered too long. . .
remember trying to put slot head screws in . . . drilling a pilot hole with one of those hand cranked drills, then you had to drill a clearance hole for the shank of the screw, then the counter sink . . . then you had to try to put the screw in with a screwdriver that kept on jumping out of the slot, that carry on was really fun
Now you get a screw that drills it's own hole as it goes in and also countersinks itself, all done with a screwdriver bit that doesn't jump out of the head once
Nah, give me progress. . . but not EGR's or DPF's that's not progress.
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My vehicle .... 2006 (m59) Berlingo Multispace Desire - 1.6 HDI 92
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(18-12-2018, 06:35 PM)jj9 Wrote: . . . drilling a pilot hole with one of those hand cranked drills ....... that carry on was really fun
Nah, give me progress. . .
Reminds me of that job we had to do when working on site with no electricity and we needed to drill and tap multiple threads into steel, the threads were 1 inch BSF and three inches deep. The only way to do it was the hand cranked drill. In those days we had to make our own bolts on a lathe so it gave us good incentive to get the thread cut correctly, also taught us how to sharpen a drill properly too.
Progress ..... that was the battery drill surely.
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The following 1 user says Thank You to geoff for this post:1 user says Thank You to geoff for this post
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It must be ok to use copper, even Halfords sell it!
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/...ubing-25ft
Personally, I'm a Kunifer user, but from reading around it's pretty much a personal choice thing. Copper will work harden how much will depend on where it's used, how well it was annealed to start with and who's been doing the pipework.
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(18-12-2018, 05:18 PM)jj9 Wrote: (18-12-2018, 04:29 PM)geoff Wrote: The advice on the classic car Forums I use is to use Kunifer and not to use copper !
My own advice would be to use Kunifer.
Aye, the classic car crew would say that as they're a bit "Whitworth" and love to make their lives harder.
There's nowt wrong with copper, used on loads of cars and never ever had any problems.
.
The really hardcore ones use steel pipes, because anything else is the wrong colour.
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I have Kunifer on my everyday old Land Rover and steel on my ultra original early Land Rover, anything else would devalue it.
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