[Engine] Valves DW8

[geoff]

I've reduced the thickness on the same shims twice now ( many K's miles apart ) and didn't have a problem, I found that the shim metal was still " hard " on the second time and my impression at the time was that the shims were not case hardened but made of a quality steel that was effectivly hardened all the way through, certainly good enough to take a second reduction in thickness.

Anyway, if it were me I'd just not worry about it and reduce the thickness as needed.

If you find you must worry then it is simple you just buy new shims from the main dealer.

They are not very expensive and come in a HUGE range of sizes but often even Citroen will be unable to provide you with the exact size required and you either accept a compromise on shim thickness ( err on safety with a wider clearance ) or you reduce the thickness of a new shim to suit your needs.

edit :  Unless you have a surface grinder - not many people do    - the best way to do it is attache some wet / dry paper to a sheet of flat metal / glass and rub the shim over it and turning frequently through 90 degrees to assist an even thickness.
I use a micrometer to measure the size exactly but a vernier caliper would suffice.

[cancunia]

As Geoff says, some fine grit wet&dry on a flat surface. Rub in a figure of 8 and rotate the shim 90 degrees regularly, do both sides rather than just one, use a micrometer or vernier to check progress.
There are plenty of posts on valve shim lapping by hand, mostly on vintage bike forums that will give you more details.

[Art b]

Great thread...
I wonder if I'll be doing mine before long..?

[geoff]

Well you'll be well armed for the job.

There is no set mileage for this work, much depends on the work the vehicle has done, as long as yours is an eager starter in colder weather you can put all such thoughts to one side.

[Arbe]

Well you'll be well armed for the job.

There is no set mileage for this work, much depends on the work the vehicle has done, as long as yours is an eager starter in colder weather you can put all such thoughts to one side.

We have been off line for a while so thanks for all the info, I am using a fine wet and dry stone and one of those fine metal sharpeners you use for fine router bits. I had my calculations thrown out some what because when I first measured I could not get any feeler gauge under the cam so I had to presume we needed to start at zero I was wrong and it was more so the shims I bought all need taking down. Off to the grindstone again. Please not my local garage said that it sounded like this was the third time my head had been done, which means that i was sold a van with incorrect mileage, unless they have it wrong, i wonder what the original shim size is .

[cancunia]

It's best to use a sheet of glass with W&D paper IMHO, but so long as the surface is flat and you keep turning the shim.

[Art b]

FYI


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-XU-an...:rk:9:pf:0

[Arbe]

Well shims all done now. have to start the process of putting back together, does anyone have the number of the Loctite gasket sealer used for the cam cover please ? is it 518

[Art b]

Well shims all done now. have to start the process of putting back together, does anyone have the number of the Loctite gasket sealer used for the cam cover please ? is it 518

I used a red gasket sealant from a local motor factors £4.50 a tube,,

I put a bead on ,
then let it set for a couple of hours then bolted it up..
Used less than half a tube,

[Arbe]

Update all complete and the engine put back together. Once we adjusted the throttle cable properly the engine started without problems. On several test runs we still experienced air entering the system. Re did the derv filter and made sure we torqued it up tight and placed the filter in the lid and re clamped all seems to be good touch wood, but have bought a one way valve to fit to fuel line just to make sure air is sorted out.