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Air Con Condenser Replacement
#1
Hi,

Had my 2007 1.6HDi regassed last year, no large leaks showed up under vacuum, but failed within a month of regas. While leak testing condenser area was setting off the leak detector but technician assumed it was an error as the vacuum didnt decay noticeably.

So I am looking to replace the condenser, assume there is no pressure left now anyway.  Does anyone know or can point me in the direction of which way to approach this from?

I can see the pipe connections and could possibly undo them through the bumper with an extension bar. It looks as though if I remove the bumper I would have to take off the bumper, crash bar, fans etc.

If i take out the radiator from the engine bay, it looks as though i may be able to access the back of the condenser without the hassle of removing the bumper etc. Any ideas? Now owuld be a good time to tell me I cant get the rad out from behind and ill just crack on with the bumper if required Smile

Dave
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#2
How did you get on with this task, got a leak which garage think down to condenser as it didn't hold vacuum.
Q i'm looking at is replacing the O-Rings which size is needed for the pipes joining the condenser.
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#3
Obviously not a common job, not much interest in this post as yet, eBay do a set of ac o rings for £6-7.

I am ordering the condenser this week and will let you know sizes once out. May get time during the week or next weekend.


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#4
Been looking last 24hr, thinking taking bumper off, as not done a rad removal yet so one job at a time.
FYI Eurocarparts have a sale on so condenser is £68 from £100.
Found O-rings after asking the Q can get different size packs.
So more the case getting the monies out and tackle it.
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#5
(23-06-2019, 08:07 PM)drc200 Wrote:  If i take out the radiator from the engine bay, it looks as though i may be able to access the back of the condenser without the hassle of removing the bumper etc. Any ideas? Now owuld be a good time to tell me I cant get the rad out from behind and ill just crack on with the bumper if required Smile

Dave

I took my radiator out last year to get the exhaust heat shield off. I managed to get it out with the bumper still in place, there were some brackets on the top edge that I managed to get off with an 8mm spanner, they had to come off before there was enough clearance. I'm not sure if that'll give enough access to the condenser but it's worth a try.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to cancunia for this post:
  • drc200
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#6
Condenser ordered, then the fun starts later this week. Going to go in from engine bay, if worst comes to worst can always revert to bumper off. Update to follow


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  • Tomcat3
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#7
Keep us posted on the outcome.
Are we there yet????? Huh
Ex 1.6hdi van now 3 seater 1.4 multispace
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#8
It’s done! Took me a couple of hours including lunch. You should probably remove the bumper and associated parts as well as the radiator.

I clamped rad hoses x2 folded them out the way, I un-clipped the top left 6?mm pipe. Carefully levered up the two plastic tags that hold the radiator in, tipped rad back and lifted out, its slightly tight against the heat shield ( top and bottom joints between plastic and ally) delicate parts don’t touch anything.

With rad out the way, 10mm socket and extension through the grille to undo top and bottom pipe connections. Tip condenser back and remove pipes. Top one came easily, bottom one was a pain it had corroded and stuck, I grabbed the base of the fitting with water pump pliers and wobbled back and forth till it let go. Releasing the top pipe allowed a bit more room to access the bottom one.

Swapped rubber bush mounts from old to new, slipped in new condenser and fiddled a bit to get the nuts on that hold the pipe connections.

O rings, there are 2 on each connector, top ones are bigger bottom are smaller. Despite saying it comes without o rings some were cable tied to the condenser.

Comparing to a set I got from amazon the bottom ones are likely to be 7.65 x 1.78mm

Top ones are likely to be 10.82x1.78mm

Popped rad back in, levering the plastic clips again, they are screwed from the front but would need the white grille removed and may still not be 100% get at able.

Filled up, bled coolant and ran up to temperature. Washed rad through while off the van, seemed clean inside few bits of fluff etc came out washing across the fins.

I will get the AC people out in the next couple of weeks and get refilled, while they also regas our toyota. Might ask if they can replace the fill valves as I remember seeing a bubble or two coming from the fill valves when the dust seal is removed. This might explain why no leak was found at the last top up.


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[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to drc200 for this post:
  • Tomcat3
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#9
Good stuff, sounds like a fairly straightforward job after all.
Also interesting about the valves as I think that's what's wrong with mine. I didn't watch when mine was tested, but can't see how a vacuum test can be done without leaving the test hoses connected which means that at least one of the valves is probably not tested.
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#10
My ac person pulls a vacuum to remove any remaining gas, this is then held to check for any gross leaks, it’s then pressurised with refrigerant, you could use some soapy water in the two ac connectors once gassed to check for leaks. If it’s known you have a leak but not where, it can be filled with nitrogen and a dye then any leaking dye shows up under uv or for smaller leaks a sniffer used to locate it.


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