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[Engine] Engine vibration at ~1,500 rpm (all gears)
#51
I had a horrible vibration at exactly 1500 rpm but it's more noise than movement in the body. My work site is huge and I have to drive at 15mph there on all roads so at 1500 in second is exactly 15mph. I traced the vibration noise to the air box, more exactly the pipes to and from the airbox. I disconnected the intake pipe from the air pickup and the filter box, and the noise is gone. I put it back, the noise is back. Still to sort it properly. The noise is so loud, people up the road turn and look!

I also get a bad clutch judder if pulling away slowly with the van loaded, at the same rpm, so bad that the whole van jumps.

So, I think the HDi has a natural vibration at that rpm and in your case it could be a bad engine mount.
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise
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#52
(Yesterday, 07:22 AM)cancunia Wrote:  
(17-10-2020, 10:26 PM)Thisisnotaspoon Wrote:  Just read through the thread as my new (to me) 2.0 HDI does something simiar at about 1850rpm. I noticed it as the M4 50mph limit sits at that in 5th gear. Drop to 4th and it goes away. Shift back to 5th and it builds, you can feel it over a period of seconds build untill the whole car is oscillating. Accelerate over 2000rpm and it goes again.

Might have to take it out at night on some quiet roads and see if I can replicate it in other gears.

My 2.0 did something similar at 50mph in 5th & 40mph in 4th, although it was not a major issue in mine. Changing the MAF (for a different reason) seemed to solve the problem. I can't remember if I mentioned it in this thread, if so apologies for the double post!

I did think of the MAF, possibly the engine trying to transition from  NA to the turbo and getting stuck oscilating between the two?

It feels like when you're driving down the horrible concrete sections of motorway and you get the washboard effect. Could be engine mounts, or could be the whole suspension is just tired.

Part of me (the part that has an MG Midget semi permenantly in bits) wants to go through the car and fix everything so its perfect.

The other part has to keep reminding me I bought it for £650 as I needed van sized transport for a job and it's only going to make me money if I dont keep spending money on it ?. If it lasts past ~15,000 miles between now and April it's a bonus. If it works as a mini-campervan next summer untill the cambelt is next due I'll consider it to have done very well!
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#53
I think it is the third (rear) lower engine mount, as I had an oil catch can that I had to mount on the metal above the radiator. I also had a silicone hose going from the oil catch can to the crankcase breather.

To cut the story short, basically the silicone hose was acting as a stabiliser to the engine as it was linked to the overall chassis of the car. When I had this, the vibration was almost unnoticeable. I also have the other two mounts replaced. I think Brajo had a suggestion to put a rope around the engine and see if the vibration disappears, but the silicone hose was doing the same job.

I will have to see how to cut the metal sleeve and stick a new poly thingy inside.
smile, you are alive!
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#54
On PUG 405 lower engine mount I used this method to cut metal sleeve of engine mount.
I don't know if it is possible to do on berlingo , but you can try.

Take small metal saw. 
   

Then disassemble the saw. Put the metal teeth trough the engine mount.
Assemble metal teeth backward. See pic. Then the whole saw is "hanging"
downward. Than cut the sleeve carefully. Like you are cutting "pipe" from inside
out. After you cut it you can push it out easy with your hand.

Best regards,
brajomobil
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to brajomobil for this post:
  • saskak
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#55
(Today, 07:40 AM)brajomobil Wrote:  On PUG 405 lower engine mount I used this method to cut metal sleeve of engine mount.
I don't know if it is possible to do on berlingo , but you can try.

Take small metal saw. 


Then disassemble the saw. Put the metal teeth trough the engine mount.
Assemble metal teeth backward. See pic. Then the whole saw is "hanging"
downward. Than cut the sleeve carefully. Like you are cutting "pipe" from inside
out. After you cut it you can push it out easy with your hand.

Best regards,
brajomobil

Thanks Brajo,

I had a look and that's how I thought of doing it, but the exhaust is too close to the mount. I think I have a junior hack saw and will have to do it with small movements.
smile, you are alive!
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