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Rear Window
#1
I have an M59 (according to Gadgetman) a 2006 variant on a UK 55 plate.

Heated rear window element is shot. I think about 3 lines at the very top work so it's as effective as a chocolate tea pot.

Is it possible to replace? I've had some quotes for the entire rear glass which is overly costly and unnecessary.

I don't think it's possible to repair the element with paint on stuff, since there's just so much missing.

all suggestions welcome thanks.
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#2
Off the cuff thoughts: despite your last comment, electrically conductive paint would seem the most immediate answer; you could do one strip at a time with masking tape, and then its neighbour once the paint's dry. Two important points: it must form an electrical circuit with the remains of the window element, and also the line thickness and width will probably have a big effect on electrical resistance over such distances, hence affecting power consumption and heating effectiveness. It may even be possible that a painted line might overheat in spots where painted too thinly, possibly causing heat damage to the glass - or am I being melodramatic?

My next thought was conductive aluminium foil tape, but a quick look online suggests it only comes in wide widths - however conductive COPPER foil tape is available as narrow as 6mm (1/4") (see ebay item 292383331948 but there are many others) and might work - but again although its thickness and width will obviously be constant, it might not be the right thickness and width. Plus, copper-coloured lines on your window might be more distracting than silver ones? Up to you whether to experiment or not. Again, the tape must make electrical contact with your window element, so I would suggest a small bottle of conductive paint to touch up the ends of the foil tape.

Last thought, and certainly much less faff and hassle - how about one of those small ceramic footwell heaters, aimed at the window? Yes they are uselessly underpowered as cabin heaters, but for this use might work? Might even be worth trying as a pain-free experiment, temporarily plugging it into a cigar lighter socket possibly via an extension lead. But if it works, you could even wire it up permanently to turn on and off via the rear window heater switch, feeding power to it via a suitable relay.

You'd ideally need to find out how much power a working window heater element actually uses (anyone know?) - the fuse is probably 40 amps but that includes a large headroom. You can work out what amps a ceramic heater uses very easily - for example a 12v 300 watt one will use (300/12) = 25 amps. See ebay 143434703463 for example, but there seem to be hundreds of competing models.

HTH, Rasputin
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Rasputin for this post:
  • saskak
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#3
PS if the ceramic heater idea proves promising, there are more powerful alternatives designed for permanent installation - for example 163918033551 or 153713260759. Being able to direct the flow of heat via pipes seems a useful feature - a bit like an exhaust manifold in reverse?
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#4
Thanks Rasputin, I think you might be on to something there. I will look into that as a viable alternative.
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#5
(07-11-2019, 01:16 PM)Riff Wrote:  Thanks Rasputin, I think you might be on to something there. I will look into that as a viable alternative.

I fixed mine by (accidentally) reversing into a metal pipe that was sticking out of a neighbours pick-up. Autoglass replaced it under the insurance cover, no charge.
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to oilyrag for this post:
  • Riff
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#6
(07-11-2019, 10:10 PM)oilyrag Wrote:  
(07-11-2019, 01:16 PM)Riff Wrote:  Thanks Rasputin, I think you might be on to something there. I will look into that as a viable alternative.

I fixed mine by (accidentally) reversing into a metal pipe that was sticking out of a neighbours pick-up. Autoglass replaced it under the insurance cover, no charge.

Thanks. I'd thought of something similar but... it's not a route I want to go down unless I have to.

Shy
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#7
(08-11-2019, 11:39 AM)Riff Wrote:  
(07-11-2019, 10:10 PM)oilyrag Wrote:  
(07-11-2019, 01:16 PM)Riff Wrote:  Thanks Rasputin, I think you might be on to something there. I will look into that as a viable alternative.

I fixed mine by (accidentally) reversing into a metal pipe that was sticking out of a neighbours pick-up. Autoglass replaced it under the insurance cover, no charge.

Thanks. I'd thought of something similar but... it's not a route I want to go down unless I have to.

Shy
If you do though, make sure you go down it backwards!
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#8
You can find 3mm conductive copper tape if you know where to look.

It's available from Greenstuffworld.com (spanish webshop), and they also have conductive paint.
It's a hobby store, so beware that money tends to find a way out...
(I paint miniatures as a hobby. )
[-] The following 1 user says Thank You to Gadgetman for this post:
  • Riff
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