[Engine] SOLVED: RHS (O/S) engine mount 1.6HDi (2007)

[saskak]

Hi All,

I have a vibration at ~1500 rpm through all gears and most likely the engine mounts have gone. Replaced pretty easily the gearbox (N/S) mount. The rubber on top looked alright, but underneath (inside) it was disintegrating a bit. The car is 1.6HDi (M59; 2007; 9HXC engine). The car shakes a bit less, but the other (O/S) mount is also about the same age and probably a goner.

I have a question about the right hand side or O/S engine mount. The torque setting for the rubber bushing is 45Nm, but the only thing that there is, is a small torx on top and I sincerely doubt a small torx bit will manage 45Nm without breaking. In addition, the rod on the top and the bottom of the rubber bushing are not connected, i.e. if I torque this to 45Nm it will be the rubber that absorb the torque.

Here is the bushing I am talking about (N 9 in the picture), in the same document it said 45Nm:    

Here is my Febi replacement bushing. There are three groves in the rubber (3rd photo more visible), so with some sort of a special tool one can torque this, but what kind of tool is that?

           

Many thanks for any help.

[saskak]

The only tool I managed to find is only sold in Australia or so it seems (https://www.ozwidetools.com.au/peugeot-e...stallation) and it is exactly what I was looking for. Quite steep for the equivalent of ~£100.


   

[cancunia]

200 AUD Plus shipping, plus UK VAT / Duty. Almost makes it worth thinking about going to a main dealer!

Can you put 2 locknuts on the thread to hold it in place? I think friction between the mount & the face of the bush will play a part too. The drop links between the suspension strut & the roll bar are held quite firmly and don't turn once there's a bit of tension on the threads.

[saskak]

200 AUD Plus shipping, plus UK VAT / Duty. Almost makes it worth thinking about going to a main dealer!

Can you put 2 locknuts on the thread to hold it in place? I think friction between the mount & the face of the bush will play a part too. The drop links between the suspension strut & the roll bar are held quite firmly and don't turn once there's a bit of tension on the threads.

I was also thinking about locknuts, but the bush shaft (top) is way too thin for the 45Nm torque force. I can also slightly bend the shaft with hands, the rubber is that soft. I can probably tightening as much as I can and mark it with a permanent marker and see if it moves once into place.

I will see if I can manufacture some sort of tool with bolts and steelcsheet, but do not have welding equipment to make it right.

[cancunia]

I expect that the dealers just do them 'tight'. You could use a nylock nut and/or some threadlock.

[saskak]

I expect that the dealers just do them 'tight'. You could use a nylock nut and/or some threadlock.

Haha, now thinking about it, I can do it "tight", but it might be a problem to undo the original one.

[geoff]

When I did the same mount on a C15 I used a piece of ABS pipe cut to shape to suit.

[saskak]

When I did the same mount on a C15 I used a piece of ABS pipe cut to shape to suit.

Thanks geoff. Did you manufacture something on top of the pipe to suit a wrench or was it by hand?

[geoff]

Just a hole for a tommy bar

[jj9]

Can you not use some sort of strap wrench on it?

Something like this...






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