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[Engine] Low Turbo Boost (still)
#1
Hi All

I posted about this issue about a month ago or so, and you gave me some pointers to look at. The van has never been very powerful but I always put it down to it being a 75bhp model, so I had it remapped to 115bhp, still no go. The chap that done the remap said from the start that it didn't feel right. Anyway after your replies I have now checked the Turbo Actuator and can confirm that the lever swings over about 1.5 seconds after the engine starts. I have removed the intake pipework and it is all clear. I have now removed the boosted side of the Turbo pipe work and it is all clear. Yesterday I removed the Intercooler and flushed it out 3 times with 98% Acetate, the first flush was like over brewed tea, by the time I flush it through the third time it was almost clear when it came out. Still no real boost. The Turbo does spin but I have no way of telling how well it spins. The EOYLS need refilling now and the display is now saying that the DPF is in danger of clogging. Which leads me to another questions, does anyone know if the DPF is near clogging will this mean that the exhaust gases will struggle to pass through the honey comb section in the DPF and cause sufficient back pressure on the Turbo blades to slow it down and therefore reduce boost. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Kind Regards

Tom
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#2
I think it definitely will. If the gas flow is slowed down the turbine will not spin properly.
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise 
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#3
Thanks Zion

I thought it would be the case but I didn’t know if any one else had experienced anything like this as well.
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#4
Yeah exhaust flow and temperature is king when it comes to boost mate. If your DPF is clogged or near clogged, you won't make much boost. An engine is just an air compressor at the end of the day, with a shove in the middle of the cycle. Gas flow is everything.

Low eolys doesn't mean the DPF is clogged yet, but it's harder to clean on a regen if there's no fluid. Do you do much motorway runs at steady 70 for a good 15 to 20 mins to allow a regen to take place normally?

If it's all short town trips, your DPF soot load will probably be high. Once it gets above 45% it will spit the dummy itself anyway due to impending clogging. Take it for a spin, try to get to 70 and keep at a steady speed in 4th or 5th and do not drop below 65 for a good 20 mins. It may clear itself. Then get the eolys bag changed
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise 
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#5
(30-05-2020, 09:01 PM)Zion Wrote:  Yeah exhaust flow and temperature is king when it comes to boost mate. If your DPF is clogged or near clogged, you won't make much boost. An engine is just an air compressor at the end of the day, with a shove in the middle of the cycle. Gas flow is everything.

Low eolys doesn't mean the DPF is clogged yet, but it's harder to clean on a regen if there's no fluid. Do you do much motorway runs at steady 70 for a good 15 to 20 mins to allow a regen to take place normally?

If it's all short town trips, your DPF soot load will probably be high. Once it gets above 45% it will spit the dummy itself anyway due to impending clogging. Take it for a spin, try to get to 70 and keep at a steady speed in 4th or 5th and do not drop below 65 for a good 20 mins. It may clear itself. Then get the eolys bag changed

Hi Zion

Unfortunately the van has only had a couple of proper runs in it 8 years. We bought it 2 years ago from a small local office cleaning company who operated around the Elgin area in the N.E. Scotland. The first 6 years (62K miles) its longest trip would have been would have been about 20 miles to a site and 20 miles back. We have covered 30K miles in 2 years with some longer trips (60 miles and back). The problem is this, the nearest dual carriage way from me is 45 miles away, and it is about 3 miles long. Perth is 120 miles away from me down the A9, there is a couple of short dual carriage way stretches (the longest being 5 miles), once I clear Perth the is a 26 mile stretch of A9 Dual carriage way but it has average speed cameras the whole way, the other alternative is the motor way from Perth to Edinburgh, but it is very busy and the boys in blue hide in unmarked cars. So as you can see, getting the van up to heat for a sustained period is far from easy.

Kind Regards 

Tom
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#6
What fault / diagnostic codes are you getting?
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#7
I think I'm right in saying that if you pull the vacuum tube off the wastegate actuator and plug the tube with a small bolt (to stop vacuum loss and crap being sucked in), the WG will close fully? (May be wrong here and it's the other way round) but if so, that would force max boost, probably result in overboost and limp mode after that but it may prove whether the boost control solenoid is allowing boost to build or just letting it go through the wastegate instead.
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise 
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#8
It’s a poor show that anyone would “remap” any vehicle that has issues,
It is so important to make sure that everything is at its best before altering any parameters.
There is very little possibility of repairing your van by asking for suggestions on here.
You may just get lucky, but really the vehicle needs to be viewed by someone who is capable of looking at live data, to see what’s wrong.
As your van appears to have a DPF, this could well be blocked, but generally the Ecu wil tell you.
You really must get the van diagnosed & get some information ,before throwing more parts at it.
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#9
(31-05-2020, 10:24 AM)Lighty Wrote:  It’s a poor show that anyone would “remap” any vehicle that has issues,
It is so important to make sure that everything is at its best before altering any parameters.
There is very little possibility of repairing your van by asking for suggestions on here.
You may just get lucky, but really the vehicle needs to be viewed by someone who is capable of looking at live data, to see what’s wrong.
As your van appears to have a DPF, this could well be blocked, but generally the Ecu wil tell you.
You really must get the van diagnosed & get some information ,before throwing more parts at it.

I had 2 vans remapped at the same time, the other was empty as it is only used to small jobs, this particular one is always fully loaded and just the right side of legal weight limit, we all put the slowness down to it only being 75bhp and very heavily loaded. The chap did say it didn’t feel right, it was me that said to go ahead and see what happens. The remap was done 6 months ago, the DPF and ELOYS issue isn’t a recent issue which I am looking into tomorrow. Wasn’t looking for a fix from people as without seeing it they can’t pin point the fault, was looking for suggestions on where I should be looking, someone else may of had similar issues to me. There isn’t much more to look at tbh now, the DPF really, if the Turbo is done that isn’t an issue as it will be getting replaced with a billeted unit soon.
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#10
(31-05-2020, 08:41 AM)Zion Wrote:  I think I'm right in saying that if you pull the vacuum tube off the wastegate actuator and plug the tube with a small bolt (to stop vacuum loss and crap being sucked in), the WG will close fully? (May be wrong here and it's the other way round) but if so, that would force max boost, probably result in overboost and limp mode after that but it may prove whether the boost control solenoid is allowing boost to build or just letting it go through the wastegate instead.
The Partner van I have had a vacuum tube, the Berlingo seems to have a different mechanism, it seems to have some sort of solenoid that pulls the wastegate lever over, which it is doing as far as I can see from watching it, it takes about 1.5 seconds from the engine starting.
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