57 Plate 1.4 Petrol Van Steering Rack replacement

[Mickjands]

Hi all
I have some questions on this topic.
Its a power steering rack that is leaking oil but otherwise operates ok.
- How easy is it to change the rack without a ramp ie on axle stands, the Haynes manual is a bit vague but it doesnt look like there is too much dis-assembly involved, can i just wiggle it till it comes out the side?
- Is there any real chance of repairing the leak when removed or should i forget that idea.
- Does anyone think it is worth getting a second hand rack or is that asking for trouble should I just go straight for an exchange rack.
-could anyone who has done it recently list the tasks involved before getting the rack out

Thanks for your help, I look forward to your answers

[Gadgetman]

Steering racks are generally made to be fidly to remove.
(I haven't tried it on a Berlingo, yet. Fingers crossed that I never have to)

If you can find a recon kit for your rack, it's probably possible to do yourself. but I wouldn't do it.
There are people who can do it for you, though.
(Mike from Wheeler Dealers always manages to find these type of experts, so... )

A new rack sems to cost anything from £200 to $400 depending on manufacturer.
A recon unit sold by a workshop(will usually take your old one as part exchange) should be a bit cheaper. I think...

If you order a replacement, you can have the new part ready to install when you start the job.
If you recon it or get someone else to do it for you, you may run into delays.

A secondhand rack from a breaker is now at least 12 years old. And you have no idea of how it has been stored or treated. I wouldn't risk it with such an important part.

If it seizes up on the M25(or whatever the road is called) or the Harewood hill climb...

[Sol]

I'm an engineer, and while I am getting to the age where I no longer want to lie under a car for hours, I'd have thought long and hard before tackling a rack myself and on axle stands may be one of the hardest jobs you do, even though it may look easy.

You will have as a minimum:

Disconnect steering knuckle - loosen and remove pinch bolt and pull knuckle joint and spline apart to separate the steering column from the rack itself, having centred the wheel / wheels and some method of keeping the steering wheel still in the centre position while the knuckle is disconnected. Then disconnect the 2 hydraulic hoses, catch the fluid and bag the ends to keep them spotless.

Next you will have 2 x ball-joints to separate, rack mounts to get to and undo (behind the engine) and then you might be able to pull the rack out of the wheel well (maybe)

Then you need the replacement rack, inner track rods, rack gaiters, track rod ends and finally reassembly, hydraulic fluid, bleeding and wheel alignment. Recon racks usually don't come with track rods, inner or outer, and the other parts you need for completeness / MOT.

[Riggsy]

I'm an engineer, and while I am getting to the age where I no longer want to lie under a car for hours, I'd have thought long and hard before tackling a rack myself and on axle stands may be one of the hardest jobs you do, even though it may look easy.

You will have as a minimum:

Disconnect steering knuckle - loosen and remove pinch bolt and pull knuckle joint and spline apart to separate the steering column from the rack itself, having centred the wheel / wheels and some method of keeping the steering wheel still in the centre position while the knuckle is disconnected. Then disconnect the 2 hydraulic hoses, catch the fluid and bag the ends to keep them spotless.

Next you will have 2 x ball-joints to separate, rack mounts to get to and undo (behind the engine) and then you might be able to pull the rack out of the wheel well (maybe)

Then you need the replacement rack, inner track rods, rack gaiters, track rod ends and finally reassembly, hydraulic fluid, bleeding and wheel alignment. Recon racks usually don't come with track rods, inner or outer, and the other parts you need for completeness / MOT.

I've just replaced the rack on my 2003 2.0hdi and it was quite straight forward.
There is not much room in the engine bay on the 2.0 but there is a lot more room in the 1.4.
I did mine of axle stands under the door seals as you may need to drop the subframe a bit to get the rack out .
You need to disconnect both track rod ends . Set the steering straight ahead and take the ignition key out which will lock the steering . There are 2 big bolts fixing the rack to the subframe , you need to disconnect the hydraulic pipes from the rack , some screw in some push in and held in with one t40 screw.
Undo the universal joint bottom of the steering column, don't be tempted to turn steering wheel with this disconnected as you will break the clock spring behind the steering wheel. Try and feed the rack out ! If there is not enough room , if not you will have to undo the subframe bolts and let this down with a trolly jack z just put some marks on the subframe to allign it when you put it back together.
Probably best get a recon rack of eBay , mine was about £100 2 year warranty , make sure you get the right one as there are about 4 different versions .

[Riggsy]

I'm an engineer, and while I am getting to the age where I no longer want to lie under a car for hours, I'd have thought long and hard before tackling a rack myself and on axle stands may be one of the hardest jobs you do, even though it may look easy.

You will have as a minimum:

Disconnect steering knuckle - loosen and remove pinch bolt and pull knuckle joint and spline apart to separate the steering column from the rack itself, having centred the wheel / wheels and some method of keeping the steering wheel still in the centre position while the knuckle is disconnected. Then disconnect the 2 hydraulic hoses, catch the fluid and bag the ends to keep them spotless.

Next you will have 2 x ball-joints to separate, rack mounts to get to and undo (behind the engine) and then you might be able to pull the rack out of the wheel well (maybe)

Then you need the replacement rack, inner track rods, rack gaiters, track rod ends and finally reassembly, hydraulic fluid, bleeding and wheel alignment. Recon racks usually don't come with track rods, inner or outer, and the other parts you need for completeness / MOT.

I've just replaced the rack on my 2003 2.0hdi and it was quite straight forward.
There is not much room in the engine bay on the 2.0 but there is a lot more room in the 1.4.
I did mine of axle stands under the door seals as you may need to drop the subframe a bit to get the rack out .
You need to disconnect both track rod ends . Set the steering straight ahead and take the ignition key out which will lock the steering . There are 2 big bolts fixing the rack to the subframe , you need to disconnect the hydraulic pipes from the rack , some screw in some push in and held in with one t40 screw.
Undo the universal joint bottom of the steering column, don't be tempted to turn steering wheel with this disconnected as you will break the clock spring behind the steering wheel. Try and feed the rack out ! If there is not enough room , if not you will have to undo the subframe bolts and let this down with a trolly jack z just put some marks on the subframe to allign it when you put it back together.
Probably best get a recon rack of eBay , mine was about £100 2 year warranty , make sure you get the right one as there are about 4 different versions .
Autosteer direct off eBay I can highly recommend for the rack