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Excessive fuel consumption, 2.0hdi
#1
Hi all,

The consumption of my Peugeot Partner 2.0hdi is horrendous,  I did 181 kms and it gobbled up 15 litres thus only 12km/l though it was a leadfooted drive. It has been this way since early this year but I thought it would go down considering all I have done. Here is a summary,

Engine kicks strongly in the morning but has a little vibration and nasty smelling smoke till it clears when its warmer - I suspect glow plugs, yet to replace.
Timing belt replaced 2 weeks ago,
MAF Sensor replaced with a used unit two weeks ago,
No check engine light,  I sprayed a can of EGR cleaner down the inlet pipe after disconnecting the MAF and engine now has no hesitation in acceleration.
Alignment is not too good after a botched alignment, but its not too bad, I dont think it should cause it to plunge.
Its about 1000kms to service which I do every 6k kms. I had changed from Quartz 9000 to shell helix ultra. no drop in oil level service to service

Where should I be looking?
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#2
Binding brakes?
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#3
(14-06-2020, 11:18 PM)Zion Wrote:  Binding brakes?

Brakes are fine,

I checked the exhaust temperature by hand and it was hot therefore a clear case of overfuelling.
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#4
Ok what's the fuel pressure? Should be 300 bar at idle and max out to 1800 bar at full tilt.

Do you have Lexia / DiagBox to diagnose and log stuff?
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#5
(15-06-2020, 05:22 PM)Zion Wrote:  Ok what's the fuel pressure? Should be 300 bar at idle and max out to 1800 bar at full tilt.

Do you have Lexia / DiagBox to diagnose and log stuff?

Its 150 miles away, and wont be going there at least for one month. I'll order a set of glow plugs and clean the MAF tomorrow using servisol snd see if it helps.
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#6
(15-06-2020, 05:22 PM)Zion Wrote:  Ok what's the fuel pressure? Should be 300 bar at idle and max out to 1800 bar at full tilt.

Do you have Lexia / DiagBox to diagnose and log stuff?

Update:

As I was cleaning the MAF, I observed that one of the elements was broken off. Fortunately I had another one which I cleaned and installed. I tested the car and now it feels punchy at low revs. Exhaust still feels hot, I dont know if it has any significance though.

I hope to order for the glow plugs later today.

Regards,'


Victor
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#7
Ah that might well explain it, the ecu uses a default airflow value if the MAF is faulty. Surprised you didn't get an EML.

Point 2 - depends on where you detect the exhaust temperature, but it will get mighty hot for most of its length on any car.
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  • Civvic
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#8
(16-06-2020, 09:11 AM)Zion Wrote:  Ah that might well explain it, the ecu uses a default airflow value if the MAF is faulty. Surprised you didn't get an EML.

Point 2 - depends on where you detect the exhaust temperature, but it will get mighty hot for most of its length on any car.

In my experience I have never seen my van give a check engine light for MAF sensor issues and I think this is the case for M49/59 models. Maybe they just resort to default and leave you to figure out that they have gone for lunch  Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin .
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#9
Yeah good point. My head's in B9 land mostly now. I did have a bad MAF on 2 different cars now I think back, and the behaviour was very different for the same issue now I think about it. One was a Subaru Legacy turbo that would be fine until you sat at a junction waiting to pull out, then when you hit the go pedal to get away, ....it would just cut out and leave you sticking out of the junction like a plum. It would of course start again straight away.

The other was a VR6 that ran fine like nothing was wrong but suddenly did 17mpg...I forgot about that one. Not that it ever made 30mpg normally but 17 was noticeable when I started getting <200 to a tank of fuel.
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#10
(16-06-2020, 10:57 AM)Zion Wrote:  Yeah good point. My head's in B9 land mostly now. I did have a bad MAF on 2 different cars now I think back, and the behaviour was very different for the same issue now I think about it. One was a Subaru Legacy turbo that would be fine until you sat at a junction waiting to pull out, then when you hit the go pedal to get away, ....it would just cut out and leave you sticking out of the junction like a plum. It would of course start again straight away.

The other was a VR6 that ran fine like nothing was wrong but suddenly did 17mpg...I forgot about that one. Not that it ever made 30mpg normally but 17 was noticeable when I started getting <200 to a tank of fuel.

Update 2:

Last week I realised that there was misfire when I jabbed accelerator lightly to raise the rpm from 800 to 1200rpm, this was observed when the car was cold and appeared to disappear when the car became hotter. I decided to give it the Italian tune-up treatment. About 15 minutes of 4,500 to 5000 rpm while letting it idle in between.

The revs are now more smoother and the power has improved and the misfire seems to have disappeared even when the car is cold.

Thanks.
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