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Logic is a myth
#1
Hi all. Swapped out my crankshaft sensor today for a new one as I had a code and and symptoms. Put the old one back in... Not starting! It cranks hard as usual but only on the very odd occasion does it bump the engine as if I wants to go. It nearly got there once but died before it got going.

So what gives? What possible damage could I have done removing a tiny sensor. I wasn't rough with the cables or anything and everything is back as it was before. There's a couple of things on Google with different cars but no solutions for me ?

If anyone has any ideas it would be more than I have. Thanks
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#2
Do you have DiagBox? You would check there for cam/crank synchronisation = yes and also be able to read cranking fuel pressure. Most ECUs don't actually throw a meaningful code for crank sensor failure, as it will always show no signal when the ignition is on but not running or cranking. Did you disconnect the battery before messing with the sensor? If not, I'd do that now. Leave at least 3 mins after ignition off, then disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes, then reconnect, wait 3 mins and try again.
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise
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#3
Really don't know too much about engines, I'm just a YouTube mechanic lol. Not sure on the diagbox... The battery was disconnected, I've checked all fuses. The car basically started this morning but died straight away with clouds of smoke coming from the back. I have a feeling it's carbon build up as when I removed a pipe it was absolutely filth. I just took the top of the EGR valve off (I haven't got them damn pliers to remove the rest) and the pin was a bit stiff. I loosed it a lot by giving it a spin and that's the closest I've got it to starting so I imagine the other bit of the EGR is stuck open?

Is there anyway to give things a clean without the removal of everything? Thanks
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#4
I believe this is the EGR pipe... It was almost fully blocked so I used a Hoover and hosepipe to carefully remove what I could. The manifold is the same and I hoovered out what I could using the hose. Could I have blocked something which is now causing it not to start?


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#5
Oh and since clearing the codes and nearly getting it going this morning I have the following codes which I've sorted (at least I thought) previously.

P1351, P0113, P0104

I changed the Mas for a new one and it made no difference at the time. Why would these come back? I'm so done with this van ?
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#6
P1351 = No pre-heat, relay supplied but glow plugs not supplied

P0113 = Inlet Air Temp signal from flowmeter open circuit or short to positive

P0104 Flowmeter no signal.

Ok, yeah carbon could be a big issue here. Cleaning is hard without dismantling. Carbon chunks can block the doser butterfly, the egr valve rotation, even jam a valve open in the intake side - it looks like you're getting fuel but not enough air, hence the smoke and shutting down. Not sure how easy you could recover from here without a tear down.

There are possibly methods but whether it's recommended is dubious, however if you're in a jam and have no mechanic to strip it down and decoke it, you might be able to soften the carbon to a liquid and pump it through by using Mr muscle oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide) but I'm not saying do that as a recommendation, I've cleaned turbo hot impeller vanes and egr pipes on Audi this way, it was me who came up with this - prior to that people were spending £3k on turbo rebuilds and teardowns. But, it does work. Needs a good hour to work, then needs flushed out or blown down the exhaust by the engine itself. Radical, and for the desperate to try if it's the last resort where the HDi intake is concerned. If left to dry out after treatment, it sets again. Must be blown out or sucked in after one hour and no more.
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise
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#7
People will tell you Mr muscle eats aluminium, will dissolve the head etc etc, in the concentration of Mr muscle oven cleaner spray, it's not strong enough but it will soften carbon to a liquid state and the engine can blow it down the exhaust, or ingest and burn it if need be (intake side) or you take the bits off including the intake and clean them in the garage with this stuff then reassemble. If I was desperate, and at the end of my tether, I'd fill the intake after the intercooler with the foam, leave it an hour then try to start it. Also the EGR too.
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise
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#8
Thanks for your advice. Tbh I'm so fed up with it I'm at the end of my teather and may well give your advice a shot. It's not worth spending money on in the garage, I just wanted another 6 months out of it before it goes to the scrapyard but it's looking unlikely at the moment. It's 2010 but looking like a 90s van ? I always buy lemons.
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#9
Worth a try then mate. It's £4 a can from Asda or Tesco, I use a silicone tube on the end spout after pulling the spray nozzle off, then put the tube into the intake as far as it will go, press down on the end where the nozzle would be till it comes out of the intake, leave for an hour then start it. Same with the egr side. Do them one after the other, wait one hour and try, it could do the trick if the next route was the scrap yard. I came up with this for Audi TDI issues on AudiSport and it was a game changer.

Now people tout it on YouTube like it's been their thing....no one did it before me in 2009.

Works like a charm if you do it right.

I drove bangers for years, then realised I had to up the money quite a bit to get out of the high mileage / other people's problems bracket etc.
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise
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#10
My old man, said "if you can't afford to buy a new Jag, you can't afford to run an old Jag"....sage words lol
My Van: 2012 B9 1.6 HDi Enterprise
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