Clicking from fuel pump area

[Stretch]

Hi guys, 1st post so apologies if I don't get the protocol spot on, the background being running fine, started cutting out while driving to start off it would restart straight run another mile or two then cut out again, I'd had the same problems in a Saab previously and anew fuel filter fixed that problem so changed said fuel filter eventually got it running took about 40 minutes of priming and a most of a can of easy start, done a couple laps of the town (6 or 7 miles) parked it up problem solved....started it again just before bed started first time, noticed Eml light was on so disconnected the -ve terminal overbite to clear the code.....reconnected the battery next day turned it over wouldn't start, checked priming bulb took about 20 pumps to get it hard again can still hear air bubbles in that area, still wants to go with the easy start but definitely seems fuel related so had a mate put his code reader on it yesterday only code showing up is to do with crank sensor, he reset codes we turned it over again no codes this time, he checked the injector rail and there's definitely no fuel getting to the rail, seems to be just recirculating around the pump....we both noticed a clicking/buzzing noise coming from the pump area, upon reading the forum for the past few days I'm now thinking it could be the solenoid in the hp pump, either that or the fuel predssure regulator or sensor, I'd like to hear of your experience with these symptoms please and which process of tests could be used to narrow down the fault...he also checked all the fuses and the relay which all seemed good....the buzzing/clicking noise has made me think it's the solenoid rather than the pump itself...borrowing my dads fuel pressure tester later, going out now to check firstly the vacuum pipe on FPR then start there with the testing? Thanks in advance guys if I've missed anything sure I'll find out soon....have a good day ? 
Berlinger 600 hdi x 75 variant GB9HWC
1.6hdi
VIN VF7GB9HWC94313708
Engine number JB790061343

[Stretch]

Just to add the clicking doesn't start until you turn the key to try start it(2nd position on ignition barrel if u turn key to 1st position no noise, try to start turns over but not starting when u stop trying the noise is then constant until you pull the power plug from the pump or turn key off

Confirmed the noise is from the solenoid gonna whip it off in the morning didn't have the correct hex socket to get it off pull out the plunger then put it all back together see if that cures it if not I'll also look at testing the fuel pressure regulator and sensor...took some pictures today if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary let me know I'll upload them now

Al

[Stretch]

Also couldn’t find the fuel relay looked all around the firewall at passenger side is it in this fuse box? Could someone also be kind enough to point out the fuel related fuses so I can double check them too

Thanks

[Sol]

I'd replace the crank sensor first. And check you haven't also induced an air leak when doing the filter.

No crank timing signal = no injection sequence so no fuel pressure produced.

[Stretch]

Going to a scrappy today to try source another Crank sensor and water pipe thanks for the input

[Sol]

No worries bud. The crank sensor is infamous for breaking down hot, so that would explain your cutting out. Then when it gives up all together, no start. The ECU uses it to time the injection sequence so it follows it stops doing that when it can't see the crank pulses.

Older rotary pump engines needed no crank signal as the distributor pump was mechanically timed to inject fuel into the right cylinder at the right point BTDC and incorporated some mechanism for injection timing advance during cold start etc.

Modern common rail motors have no such distributor so the ECU relies entirely on the crank sensor to time everything.