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Which driveshaft is right?
#1
AAAARGH!

I was just trying to replace the flywheel and fit a new clutch on my beloved Berlingo(1.4i, 1999 5 seater), and there were complications...  
For some reason or other, my engine has a 180mm clutch plate, and a flywheel that fits it. One of the fun things about getting engines from a breaker, I guess... It probably wasn't original to the Berlingo it was pulled from. And since the clutch was misbehaving(assumed cause was the breather tube from the engine to the airbox had come loose and oil had sprayed everywhere in that area... ) I figured that swapping both clutch and flywheel at the same ttime was a good idea. Besides, I already had the right flywheel from my old engine. 
What could go wrong... 

The hub nuts were solid... (M24/1.5, the type you hammer on with a chisel or something to lock in place). Nothing a new 1metre breaker bar couldn't help with... 
The lefthand driveshaft needed a new gaiter. No problem.

The righthand driveshaft wouldn't come out... No problem, I bet if I wigle it around for long enough, the gearbox will slip off anyway... 
It did, but I ruined the rightand seal. No problem. Can order a new one. 
Incidentally, 2 of the bolts for the gearbox was missing.

Gearbox on the floor, I went to attack the clutch. Huh... Plate looks clean?   
The throwout bearing? not so much. 

Removed the flywheel...   
Yeah, the oil seal on the crankshaft is a goner. 
No problem. I have to order that driveshaft oil seal anyway. One more part won't make a difference...   

Parts arrive, and it's time to handle the elephant in the engine compartment... 

Thhe righthand driveshaft. 
I dumped liberal amounts of WD40 and other lubricants as close to the rear engine mount as I could get it, and gave the end of the driveshaft the occasional lovetap with my 4lbs hammer. Repeat for a couple of days. 
Not budging. Now we're into 'not okay' territory.
Laying on your back on one of those 6wheeled boards, on a car that's barely high enough, and wih old engine oil dripping... Even reaching the 4 bolts holding the rear engine mount onto the engine... was a pain. 
Incidentally, 3 of those bolts also hold the alternator bracketry. Maybe it was possible to attack it from above?
Never mind, got it out... 
Mounted in a vise it was possible to knock the cr@p out of it. 
The motor mount is back in the car...   

The driveshaft is not. The bearing (that sits in the hole in the engine mount) is caput. The same is the inner gaiter. And I'd have to do a bit of filing if the axle is to ever be used again.  

So, now I'm trying to figure out which of the many driveshafts will fit my car. 
The old one is 890mm give or take who knows how much.(There's a lot of play in those joints), the inner splines count 22 and the outer 25, no ABS. 
Searching on the usual suspect stores lists driveshafts with lengths of 875, 880, 890, 895, 897, 899mm 
(There are shorter lengths, too, but lets be reasonable here)   

I tried using the Catcar site, but it tells me 'not found' when I enter my VIN. Another claimed it to be a 2006, and a third listed it as a B9, I think. 

Also, any idea where I can find the correct bolts to fasten the gearbox?
They seems to be M10, flanged allen head, and 70mm (tip is pointed not flat)
I can machine a couple of standard M10 hex heads to have a similar point, but I don't really know which type of steel they're using.
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#2
Sounds fun! The bolts are socket head & pointed so that they can be fitted by machine. The easy option is to go for high tensile but the original torque figures are a mere 30lb ft, so almost anything will do the job (better than no bolt at all!). Standard bolts with flanged heads are readily available on Ebay but normal bolts with a washer would suffice, which you should be able to pick up locally.
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#3
30lbs/ft. Yeah, regular stainless will be enough, then.

I think I'll use threadlocking fluid on them, though. Because I don't want to lose more of them.
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#4
Huh..

The bolts holding the clutch assembly onto the flywheel is different sizes?

The ones from the flywheel with 180mm clutch seems to be M6, but the ones on the 200mm are M7?
And of course, there's one bolt missing.

AAArgh!

Oil seal and flywheel went on without too much issue, though.
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#5
M7s are a PITA to get hold of, my local nut and bolt supplier recons that it is only the french automotive business that uses that size (I had to buy new longer ones when I replaced my rotted steel sump with an alloy one

Peter
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#6
I just learned that these specific bolts are listed as 'NFP' by Citröen...
That is 'No Further Production', and the document date is in 2011.

Elfed!
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#7
Plenty of M7 on Ebay - from stainless to HT - anything is better than nothing. Also, the cover plate probably sits on dowels and they resist any twisting movement as much or even more than the bolts. Motorbike shops will certainly stock M7, often HT, so you should be able to source what you need with no issues.
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#8
A lot of the motorcycle shops are now pushing TI bolts of dubious quality.
At least the online stores.
No MC shops nearby that I can just pop by unfortunately. They're all just out of reach.

I just placed an order for 12.9 black bolts online, but since they won't be here until next week, I'll keep an eye out for other promising locations.
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#9
Still haven't gotten any bolts.

I did get the new driveshaft, though...

But it has holes on the end for castellated nut and a split pin, not the groove that you hammer a part of the edge of the nut into.
And of course it didn't come with either nut or pin.
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#10
The right size cap M7 cap screws for holding the sump on are as expensive on Ebay as they are from Citroen

Peter
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