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I have had a result with the key issue the remote tester arrived and neither of our keys was transmitting. Batteries were still all good. On close inspection I found that on one of them the negative battery connector had a broken (dry) joint on two of its legs. I have re-soldered it and it is now working on the car. On the other remote I have found the lock switch is permanent closed circuit. When I make a battery connection the RF tester flashes as if the button was pressed. I have ordered some new switches so may be able to fix that one as well.
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24-04-2021, 08:16 AM
(This post was last modified: 24-04-2021, 08:16 AM by Sol.)
Ah ha. Good result. Proper fault finding, I like it.
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Second key working now it was a bit of a fiddle soldering the four little connections on the switch back to the PCB.
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One last thing on the key issue both of my keys now work from a good distance like new. As the cases were a bit tatty I got two rebuild kits from eBay. They are really cheap but it's a minefield to make sure you get the correct ones. There are two battery holder types and two blade types and four possible combinations!!
I did not get the new replacement blade cut at a lock shop I replaced the old one into the new case. That is a fiddley operation, after taking the top off the case you have to hold the press button still and press it down a bit then rotate the blade slightly to line up the slot that lets it come apart. At the same time the spring will loose its tension so try to fly out. The fun part is tensioning the spring and lining up every thing to get it back into the new case.
The real issue I had with the new case was that the battery positive connection bit on the new case did not contact the connector on the PCB when assembled so I had to bend it a little.
Now both my keys look and work as good as new.
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25-04-2021, 01:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 25-04-2021, 02:05 PM by Sol.)
Excellent. I have done the same thing on my SRi key and the Audi A3 I had before the Berlingo. It's a fiddly operation swapping the key blade huh!
I spent ages tensioning the spring to give the blade a nice strong flick when the button is pressed to unfold it. Winding it backwards is a nightmare.
My new technique which is much better, is to drift the tiny roll pin out that holds the blade into the socket part that rotates. That way you can leave the spring bit alone. But the roll pin is strong and small, takes a bit of hunting to find the right thing to drift it out with. I used a fine panel pin and long nose pliers to hold it so fingers don't become part of the hammering equation ...lol
A bit of wood with a hole in it helps to allow the pin to drop down while the key lays on its side as you tap it out.
Drift the black roll pin out of both old and new keys, pull the old and new key blades out respectively, slot the old blade in the socket of the new key, push and tap the roll pin back in. One end is tapered, goes in first or there will be swearing...as it pings under the cooker....
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Sounds like fun. I did get a new case for one of my Citroen Relay Camper keys and it was the wrong battery holder type that's how I first found the minefield of key repair.
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