Seized door lock barrel

[Mike_]

Hi all,

I have a couple of questions related to my 06 Berlingo van and would very much appreciate any help!

1. The rear door lock barrel has been seized for a while, I removed it at the weekend and gave it a good clean with WD40 but it's still not budging, any tips on how to free it up?

2. When messing around with the lock and understanding at which point the lock should begin to turn, I found that with the driver's door lock (the only one that works) I can unlock my van with just a flat head screwdriver?! Why would this be the case?

3. I've seen on ebay that you can buy new lock barrels, if I was to purchase one of these, I take it i'd need the new key to unlock the van and my existing key to start it? i.e my current van key wouldn't work with the new lock? (Although going by the fact I can unlock the drivers with a flat head, I'm not so sure!)

4. Lastly an alternative I was thinking of was to buy one of the keyless entry kits of ebay for £10, does anyone have any experience with these and recommend one and more importantly how to fit one?

Thanks for any help!
Mike

[Gadgetman]

Citröen's door locks have been bottom of the barrel stuff forever, and possibly a barrel filled with a corrosive liquid...
In other words, the seized up bareel is seized up because the parts inside is rusted up.

The rear door is it 'barn doors'(two doors) or just the single with a top hinge?
Because the top hinged door uses a slightly different cylinder(at least it does on the M49)
I've yet to find a kit with a cylinder that fits the top hinged doors.

Get a kit that has enough lock barrels, and swap out everyone, even the one for the ignition. Then transfer the metal part of the new key over to the plastic/electronics part of the old key.

Keyless entry?
Isn't that just a brick?
They kind of suck if the battery runs down.
Imagine not being able to open the car to access the hood latch so that you can pop the hood and connect the battery charger...

[notsofast]

When messing around with the lock and understanding at which point the lock should begin to turn, I found that with the driver's door lock (the only one that works) I can unlock my van with just a flat head screwdriver?! Why would this be the case?

After my M49 van was broken into years ago I got a mobile van lock guy to fit mortice locks for proper security. I also investigated how easy it was to unlock the old barrels - basically they'd turn using just my thumbnail. When I asked the lock guy why the lock was so poor, he said, 'because it's French'. I half laughed and said, 'ha ha, yeah, but why is it so poor really?', and he said, 'because it's French'......

[Mike_]

Hi Both,

Thank you for your replies and for the chuckle.

It doesn't sound like there is much hope saving the existing barrel, I will research a full set of barrels then including the ignition and petrol cap.

My thinking for the keyless entry would be that I could use the button when approaching the back doors (barn doors) so I don't have to unlock the drivers door then walk back (1st world problem) but I'd still be able to use the key if the battery ever went flat. The van is only used for the odd diy job so a full mortice lock isn't necessary although it would be nice if it was harder than sticking something flat into the lock to unlock the thing!

Thanks,
Mike

[Mike_]

Hi guys,

Just to follow up on this.

I bought one of these keyless entry kits and tried following this youtube video for instructions:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIPvZLRLXOE&t=6s

I've taken both the passenger and interior door covers off to access the wires leading to the door locks and have been prodding with my test light to see what happens.

On the passenger side I have found 1 wire that when the test light is touched against it, it unlocks the van but i can't find a wire to lock the van.

On the drivers door I've found 1 wire that will lock the van but not a wire that unlocks the van.

I would have thought that for both locks (or at least the drivers side for sure) i would be able to find 2 wires controlling the locking and unlocking? Do i have to run 1 wire to the unlock wire on the passenger door and 1 wire to the lock wire on the drivers door? I imagine there is something I'm missing so if someone could enlighten that would be great! 

Many thanks,
Mike

[Gadgetman]

You won't find two wires...

If it's like a central locking kit I was experimenting with in an earlier car, the actuator only uses Gnd and Pulse, and have 'position' signals to know which position the actuator is in.

Pulse once, it opens. Pulse again, and it locks.

Test light?

I would feel much more comfortable if you used a voltmeter and measured the wires while pushing a button.