Front Door Latch Adjustment?

[cancunia]

This is actually for my Pug Expert, but the front door locks look the same as the B9 so thought I'd ask here. 
My front passenger door does not close fully and makes a vibrating / banging noise if it's shut even moderately hard. It looks like the striker loop needs to move inwards or the door lock outwards just a couple of mm but I can't see how to make any adjustments?



Thanks

[Sol]

Now, I have a similar issue. My missus shuts the van door like pansy potter, and it makes a horrible bang as the striker loop bottoms out (I'm sure it does) so I've done this adjustment before on other vehicles but not yet on the B9.

You need a multipoint star bit, spline they call them usually more points than a torque bit.

Draw round the striker with a pencil, Chinagraph if you have one but normal carbon pencil is fine too. Make a clear line right round so you know where it started out.

Slacken the star (spline) bolts of the striker, not too much - but don't remove them. Tap or push the striker back say 5mm from where it started, nip it up, make sure it's fairly straight, and try the door again.

I want the door to close on the seals with a dull thump, not a bang. I'm going to do both of mine. The passenger side is worse than the drivers but both bottom out before the seals are compressed.

[cancunia]

Just been out to look at mine again. Unfortunately the striker position is fixed by a pin on the back of the plate. The 2 screws holding the striker plate are Torx but be careful as it looks like the retaining plate in the body is not held in place other than by the 2 screws.

I found the attached on Service Box, seems that you need to cut the indexing pins from the striker plate.

Update:

Indexing pins removed, turned the striker plate over so the unused side of the loop was now being used & adjusted the plate as far as it would go towards the inside, I got about 2mm side movement out of the plate. Door now closes a lot better with far less clang.

[Sol]

Brilliant, did you use a magnet to hold the back plate while the striker was off? Or just put the bolts back in one at a time?

[cancunia]

Brilliant, did you use a magnet to hold the back plate while the striker was off? Or just put the bolts back in one at a time?

I used a long M8 bolt in the top to hold the backplate while I got the striker plate clear of the pins, then put the bottom bolt back in tight to get the top bolt out.

[Sol]

Thanks mate. It seems daft to fit locating pins on something that may need adjusted. Merci, Citroën!

[cancunia]

Thanks mate. It seems daft to fit locating pins on something that may need adjusted. Merci, Citroën!

I think the hinges have a similar setup.

There's no warning in the document about the backing plate dropping down so maybe it won't, but I didn't want to find out.

[Sol]

Me either. I think it would fall down, hence my comment before about not taking the bolts right out.