Driveshaft CV Joint Boot Replacement

[cancunia]

I've noticed a small nick on the outer cv joint boot of one of the driveshafts so need to replace it. I've ordered a new boot for it but am wondering how best to get the new one on. I'm not sure if the one I've ordered is a 'stretchy' version that can be slid on over a cone or if I need to get the joint apart.

Anyone have experience of changing the cv boot? Did you take the joint off the shaft or use the 'cone' tool?

Thanks

[ArozNick]

I've always used a cone tool. Brought one a while ago, figured that there are always going to be cv boots on cars, so it seems to be a wise investment.

[cancunia]

I've always used a cone tool. Brought one a while ago, figured that there are always going to be cv boots on cars, so it seems to be a wise investment.

I'm beginning to think the same. I bought a new CV Boot but am not sure if it's possible to use a cone with it, it's due to arrive tomorrow. Is there a way to tell or will all CV boots work with a cone?

[Kieron G]

On the ones I changed you have to give the cv joint a clout with copper hammer to separate it from the shift. There is a spring clip holding it on. Also mark with tippex before separating it so it goes back on the splines in same position.. Obviously only clout the cv joint on the part which fits on drive shift so as not to damage it. I think there is a different type of arrangement as well from reading the Haynes when I changed mine. Hope this helps

[cancunia]

On the ones I changed you have to give the cv joint a clout with copper hammer to separate it from the shift. There is a spring clip holding it on. Also mark with tippex before separating it so it goes back on the  splines in same position.. Obviously only clout the cv joint on the part which fits on drive shift so as not to damage it. I think there is a different type of arrangement as well from reading the Haynes when I changed mine. Hope this helps

I've seen a few videos of getting the joint off the end of the shaft and was thinking about that for mine as I have the shaft out from the gearbox and in a vice with the old boot off. I gave the part next to the shaft some clouts with a rubber hammer & also with a steel hammer via a block of wood but although the joint looked to move slightly it was not coming off. I have a brass drift which I'll try with the hammer later today.

[Gadgetman]

I've never used one of those cones...
I've still managed to replace the gaiter.
I leave it near boiling water for 10 minutes, then take it out, wipe it off and it's as easy as 1, 2, 3, to stretch it and pull it over.

The only gaiters I've everr had an issue with is the 'two part' models.
These comes in two halves and a tube of glue. They're supposedly so easy to fit that you don't even need to pull the driveshaft out!
What a pity then that gluing them together is such a horrible affair....

you will need a tool for the metal locking strips. And get a few extra strips because no one does it right the first time.

[cancunia]

I've never used one of those cones...  
I've still managed to replace the gaiter.
I leave it near boiling water for 10 minutes, then take it out, wipe it off and it's as easy as 1, 2, 3, to stretch it and pull it over.  

The only gaiters I've everr had an issue with is the 'two part' models.
These comes in two halves and a tube of glue. They're supposedly so easy to fit that you don't even need to pull the driveshaft out!  
What a pity then that gluing them together is such a horrible affair....

you will need a tool for the metal locking strips. And get a few extra strips because no one does it right the first time.

Thanks for the boiling water tip. I've done the locking strip before on a previous Berlingo and used a tool for cutting fence wire, the jaws are very similar to the special tool, the main difference is that the jaws come together from the pivot point as opposed to direct from the side.

[Gadgetman]

I've never used one of those cones...  
I've still managed to replace the gaiter.
I leave it near boiling water for 10 minutes, then take it out, wipe it off and it's as easy as 1, 2, 3, to stretch it and pull it over.  

The only gaiters I've everr had an issue with is the 'two part' models.
These comes in two halves and a tube of glue. They're supposedly so easy to fit that you don't even need to pull the driveshaft out!  
What a pity then that gluing them together is such a horrible affair....

you will need a tool for the metal locking strips. And get a few extra strips because no one does it right the first time.

Thanks for the boiling water tip. I've done the locking strip before on a previous Berlingo and used a tool for cutting fence wire, the jaws are very similar to the special tool, the main difference is that the jaws come together from the pivot point as opposed to direct from the side.

No, the big difference is the... thing... in the middle that flattens the joint. 
   

[RattyCortina]

Can you still get those split boots? I remember the fitting advice said not to have your fingers around the shaft when gluing it together...

[cancunia]

Thanks for all the replies, in the end I managed to get the joint off the shaft after a few sharp taps with a hammer & a brass drift. With the shaft in a vice I laid the drift on the shaft and hit it with the hammer. Previous attempts with a rubber mallet as seen on You Tube & a block of wood had no effect. After putting the gaiter on the shaft (no way was it going to stretch) the joint went back on after a couple of taps with a rubber mallet.
I crimped the bands with the wire cutter and as Gadgetman noted they did not get pushed flat at the same time but the result looks ok, time will tell.