Injector seal leaking

[BLINGO BOMBA]

As mentioned in an older thread, got home fine after i noticed injector 2 chuffing & whistling at speed, so will look at changing cylinder head seal & copper washer on no.2 cylinder. Some of the videos look straightforward, but some of the comments state otherwise!

ive ordered 2 head seals & 2 copper washers from Citroen, but the videos show people using a kit containing several o rings, washers & spacers, i guess these are from Europarts or similar.?

However, since the injector started leaking chuffing, when starting from cold, the engine makes an awful racquet fot 20-30 secs then sounds normal.

Is this racquet probably due to the leaky injector or is it a coincidence?

The racquet appears to come fron the cambelt train (noisy pulley bearing.?)
But I guess it could be rough running due to leak. Seems ok on hot start up.

Dont want to waste time doing injector if I need to take to a garage to investigate the racquet.

Any advice appreciated, Thanks.

[BigVtwin996]

As mentioned in an older thread, got home fine after i noticed injector 2 chuffing & whistling at speed, so will look at changing cylinder head seal & copper washer on no.2 cylinder. Some of the videos look straightforward, but some of the comments state otherwise!

ive ordered 2 head seals & 2 copper washers from Citroen, but the videos show people using a kit containing several o rings, washers & spacers, i guess these are from Europarts or similar.?

However, since the injector started leaking chuffing, when starting from cold, the engine makes an awful racquet fot 20-30 secs then sounds normal.

Is this racquet probably due to the leaky injector or is it a coincidence?

The racquet appears to come fron the cambelt train (noisy pulley bearing.?)
But I guess it could be rough running due to leak. Seems ok on hot start up.

Dont want to waste time doing injector if I need to take to a garage to investigate the racquet.

Any advice appreciated, Thanks.

Me and a mate did all 4 injector seals on my 2.0HDI in less than 2 hours... we probably took a lot longer tan other people would but we followed this process.....

Obviously engine had not been run for quite a while so thee was no pressure build up....
slackened off fuel-> injector pipes (in pairs) so they could be moved out of the way....
Removed the fuel return pipes as needed
Undid first injector clamp..
The injector was surrounded by crud so a wipe clean was done
Luckily the injector came out easily

the injector body was cleaned with a lint free cloth carefully avoiding touching the tip of the injector..

the injector port was cleaned again carefully ensuring no crud dropped down...
we had a strange case a guy who had changed the seals had used a Used seal and silicon sealer...
my mate carefully dug this all out .....
next... he is a bit pernickety...
Using a brass bar slightly smaller than the port hole... he cut some lines across the face and used this to clean the head/injector face.... the logic being the brass s soft and any crud is trapped in the cuts as the bar s turned.... and being brass it is soft so does not damage the face....

the new seals (copper washer and plastic thing) were inserted and injector put in and the clamp and nut loosely tightened...
the process repeated for the other injectors...

Ok speaking to a local garage mechanic he said they rarely replace the fuel pipes even though they are recommended and high pressure ... unless they are corroded or were hard to remove...

I think the injector retaining nuts are something like 23 ft lb.. so were torqued up in stages to 21.5 ft lb
after it was done...

the engine was turned over for a few seconds in bursts (no one near the engine) not allowing the glow plugs to heat up...
the injectors and pipes were checked for any signs of leaking... All was good

The engine was started and not revved and run for about 10-15 seconds.... turned off and left for a few minutes....
again checked for leaks... All good

The engine was then run at tickover for about 5-10 minutes...
this was to allow the copper washer seals to warm up slightly....
Engine turned off and left for a minute..
the injector retaining nuts were checked/re torqued at 21.5 ft lb - and yes they did need a little turn...
then finally tightened to 23 ft lb
the logic being that warm, the softer copper seals would perhaps deform and seal better...
all seems ok....
Perhaps not the way some people would do it but it worked for us...

No idea about the noise but it could be the belt tensioner.. which is why they are changed when a belt is changed... perhaps it has never been changed as some people do a belt only....
I was always told change the belt the tensioner pulley and the water pump at the same time...

[SergioFR]

I dont know what is your engine. But if it is the 1.6hdi the defect is the injector studs they became loose. I change 4 times and i thound the way to do hold them for good. With silicone and locktite and thevright torque and tightening sequence.

Timing belt it as a diferent sound...

[BLINGO BOMBA]

Ta for replies, i havent tackled the injector yet, as i need to concentrate on an abs warning light, will post this separately.
I had a look at the screeching at start up, i got a 15mm spanner on the aux tensioner pulley & checked it was free moving, it didnt make a noise after that! I have since had the aux belt changed.

[BLINGO BOMBA]

Finally tackled the injector seal, took ages to free the injector but got there eventually. Problem now is im struggling to refit the leak off pipes at top of injectors. Tried smearing with fresh diesel but they dont want to snap in tho they look ok
Rang Citroen for replacement o rings, they say need complete fuel pipes, o rings not available separately.
Is there a knack to fit these or shall i use brute force?

[saskak]

Finally tackled the injector seal, took ages to free the injector but got there eventually.  Problem now is im struggling to refit the leak off pipes at top of injectors. Tried smearing with fresh diesel but they dont want to snap in tho they look ok  
Rang Citroen for replacement o rings, they say need complete fuel pipes, o rings not available separately.
Is there a knack to fit these or shall i use brute force?

I replied to your other post on fitting the leak off adapters, but the o-rings can be bought separately. For example here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203003095171

[BLINGO BOMBA]

Ta for that, useful to know. Unfortunately i need it for mot on Thursday, so wiill need to try brute force!
Thanks again.

[saskak]

Ta for that, useful to know.  Unfortunately i need it for mot on Thursday, so wiill need to try brute force!
Thanks again.

Wiggle them in as much as they can go in and then push from the top vertically, it should push fit nicely with a click.

[BLINGO BOMBA]

First connector clicked straight in this morning! The other needed a fair bit of downward force via a hammer handle! All good & no leaks.
Ta again

[saskak]

First connector clicked straight in this morning! The other needed a fair bit of downward force via a hammer handle!  All good & no leaks.
Ta again

Excellent effort. For these that were hard to push in eventually you may need to replace the o-ring as it is most likely damaged. It would not leak, but if you are doing the test again you may want to replace them. Good luck with the MOT.