Advice required for engine and gearbox removal please.

[Sierra Charlie]

I need to change the cambelt on my engine. In addition the 3rd gear synchro on my gearbox is worn ( I have previously fitted replacement gear selector rods, this did improve things but I have to double declutch when changing down into 3rd gear ).

I have the option to purchase a decent second hand gearbox. I was thinking about removing the engne and gearbox complete. Has anyone taken their engine and gearbox out complete, if so does it come out of the top with an engine hoist or does it need to be dropped out from the bottom?

My thinking being, easier access to the cambelt. Plus I can seperate the engine and gearbox to fit the replacement box together with a new clutch.

Any help and advice gratefully appreciated

[ffrenchie]

According to the Haynes manual it should come out downwards as a complete engine and box unit.

[Gadgetman]

According to the Haynes manual it should come out downwards as a complete engine and box unit.

Don't you lift it up in the M59?

On my M49(mostly the same car... ) with a 1.4i, you definitely lift it. And there are lugs already on the engine to hook it up with.
(I used a chainfall)
The big issue on that is the inlet manifold. It tends to hit the wall, and could snap off the connector for the vacuum ppipe that goes to the brake servo.

The gearbox alone can be dropped down. But it's a pain...

[oilyrag]

If leaving the engine in place, then taking the gearbox out is not that difficult, nor is changing the clutch assembly. 
Again, the cam belt change is not too bad either.  Taking the engine out disturbs a lot of pipework, exhaust, fuel & water systems, along with wiring to all sensors etc.  The last thing you might want to do is generate a 'code' that wasn't there before, or a broken pipe connection, which could be costly.
Taking the gearbox alone out disturbs none of these, and the same with the cam belt change in situ.

[Sierra Charlie]

Many thanks ffrenchie, Gadgetman and oilyrag for your replies.

Looks like I have started a debate here 

As stated in my original post I was thinking of removing engine and gearbox complete mainly for ease of working, however if the cam belt is relatively straight forward to do ( I recall a neighbour of mine stating the cam belt on his Peugeot 3008 1.6 diesel was awkward to do.......different car I know but he mentioned working space was tight ) then I suppose it makes sense to try and change it with the engine in situ especially considering the comments about disturbing pipework, fuel and water systems, wiring and sensors possibly generating fault codes, something which I hadn`t considered.

Many thanks again for your contributions, much appreciated 

[geoff]

I'd do the job in situ as two seperate operations.

Timing is ok, a bit fiddly in places but not hard just time consuming.
Hardest part to be honest is engagng the flywheel locking pin in the hole - file a decent chamfer on the pin.

Good advice is to make a drawing of the auxilliary belt route around the various pulleys / take a photo maybe before removing the belt !!

Similarly with the timing belt !

Haynes is quite good on the timing belt on the 1.6 Hdi once you sift through it.

Gearbox - not that heavy just sit in a comfortable position to refit it / hump it into place without excessive load on the input shaft.

Enjoy !

[geoff]

Oh and don't forget to slacken the crank pulley bolt before the stripdown begins unless of course you have a windy gun.

[oilyrag]

If your old gearbox is a scrapper you could use the input shaft to align the clutch plate, if not then buy the alignment tool (usually universal). It saves a lot of cursing and takes away a lot of the risk of damaging the plate by hanging the gearbox on it whilst trying to get the shaft centred. Some clutch kits may contain a plastic tool for the job, so check that out before buying a tool.
Good luck!

[ffrenchie]

According to the Haynes manual it should come out downwards as a complete engine and box unit.

Don't you lift it up in the M59?  

On my M49(mostly the same car... ) with a 1.4i, you definitely lift it. And there are lugs already on the engine to hook it up with.
(I used a chainfall)  
The big issue on that is the inlet manifold. It tends to hit the wall, and could snap off the connector for the vacuum ppipe that goes to the brake servo.  

The gearbox alone can be dropped down. But it's a pain...

According to Haynes pre 2002 lift up anything after goes down. I wouldn't try to lift out in a lump with ours the two jobs would be separated and done in the car.

[Sierra Charlie]

I'd do the job in situ as two seperate operations.

Timing is ok, a bit fiddly in places but not hard just time consuming.
Hardest part to be honest is engagng the flywheel locking pin in the hole - file a decent chamfer on the pin.

Good advice is to make a drawing of the auxilliary belt route around the various pulleys / take a photo maybe before removing the belt !!

Similarly with the timing belt !

Haynes is quite good on the timing belt on the 1.6 Hdi once you sift through it.

Gearbox - not that heavy just sit in a comfortable position to refit it / hump it into place without excessive load on the input shaft.

Enjoy !

Thank you very much geoff for your reply and the details you enclose, all sound advice.

Will do the jobs as seperate operations as you suggest