EGR valve location 1998 1.4 Berlingo

[Ruicastro1998]

Thanks for having me everyone. I just got my first euro car 1998 Berlingo  gasoline 1.4. I have looked everywhere online as to the location of the egr valve so that I may clean it . Greatly appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction and if you per chance know if the EGR is mechanical or electrical. Thanks a mil and once again thanks for having me

[oilyrag]

I don't think you'll have one on a petrol motor ...mine hasn't!

[Ruicastro1998]

Wow that would explain why I was having trouble locating it and supports my strong suspicion at the time but now I have have a bigger problem turning the neighborhood atmosphere into China. Never knew it could run without EGR. Thanks for the heads up greatly appreciate it

[saskak]

As oilyrag suggested the older petrol models do not have EGR, only diesels.
The EGR is mainly there to reduce the combustion temperature. Diesels achieve much higher compression than petrol engines and this leads to increased heat and the production of NOx. To reduce the NOx, EGR inert gasses are introduced in the combustion chamber and becase there is little to no oxygen from EGR gasses the temperature is reduced.

[Gadgetman]

You have issues with it smogging up the area?

I'm assuming that it drinks a bit of oil, too?

I would suspect the head, or even the cylinders?

Pull the plugs and do a compression test. you should get around 10x compression if the engine is tight.

Find which cylinder(s) are misbehaving and crank it to top so that both valves are closed.
(This needs to be done with the head cover off, of course... Actually, it's all easier to do if you jack it up and put it on stands, yank off the righthand front wheel and the timing belt covers. )
Now, get a compressor, and you can also find an adapter that lets you connect air through the sparkplug hole in the cylinder.
Blow!
And listen to where the air escapes.

Exhaust: Outlet valve doesn't seal properly.
Intake manifold: you guessed it... Inlet valve.
Air coming up the oil passages and up to the top? Cylinder rings, or worse; damaged piston walls.
Or air escaping around valve stems; Valve stem seals.

It IS possible to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head. Ed from Wheeler Dealers did it on a car once. He used a compressor to keep the valves in place(need that compressor adapter... ) and a tool to compress the valve springs. Remove the two collar pieces, the 'bowl' they're in, and the spring. The oil seal is a cap around the stem.
These were completely expired on mine.

Replacing the piston rings or the cylinder sleeve requires that the head be removed. And the sump removed, and the coolant drained. you know, the full pain. (Do coolant first... )
you'll need to fab a couple of brackets that fits across the engine.(I used 8mm Aluminium) Just a strip of alumnium with two holes that match the bolt patterns so that you can strap them across to hold all 4 liners down. It can be a good idea to cut a semi-circle along the lengt of the pieces to match the inner diameter of the cylinders(or so, ) They're needed to stop the liners lifting free when you push the piston up from below. you only need it on one side, though, if you don't mind moving them around a bit now and then...

It's all explained in the Testament of Haynes which may or may not be found on this very site.

Lapping the valves, if they are the problem is a bit of a job...


Do you have the version with a single coilpack sitting on top of the spark plugs, or the older type with a coilpack sitting next to the engine, above the flywheel?