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Coolant replacement
#1
               
I’ve owned a 2007 Partner (1.4 petrol) for seven years and replacing engine coolant has been a bit of a ‘fiddle’.
So I gave the matter some thought and this is the result.
Firstly I have to say this is an experiment with a cold engine. Further, I haven’t replaced coolant just carried out a major top due to coolant loss resulting from pressure cap failure.
However, this is the procedure.  
Get hold of a used sealer tube, (the type that uses a ‘gun’ to force the sealant out) it should be 46mm inside diameter. The piston should then be 44mm inside diameter.
First remove the nozzle end – not much more than about 3mm -I used a hacksaw.
Remove as much of the old sealant as possible – from both sides of the piston.
Remove the piston from the tube – I bumped it out using the shaft of a hammer – taking care not to damage /distort it too much.
Drill two 6mm holes in the face of the piston and get hold of some flexible tubing 6 mm diameter by not less than 1.5 metres long. I cut the one end of the tube at an angle
Remove the cap from the coolant bottle and push the piston over the threads.
The piston I used was a tight push fit over the threads.
Thread the flexible tube (angled end first) through the sealer tube, and then through one of the holes in the piston.
Now push the sealer tube over the piston and route the flexible tube over the front of the vehicle.
Disconnect the small pipe from the air intake and remove the air filter.
Open the upper bleed point by removing the valve cap and keep topping up the coolant until it flows out.
When the fluid pours out, open the lower bleed point using a 5mm Allen key.
When fluid flows from the lower bleed point retighten it and, providing fluid is still pouring from the upper point, replace the bleed cap. Just remember to keep the tube topped up with coolant.
We now siphon out the excess coolant –using a siphon gadget if possible - into a container placed on the ground.
(If you don’t have a siphon gadget use the time honoured method. If you’re lucky you may avoid getting coolant into your mouth, if not rinse mouth ASAP).
 If the tube is as low as it can go in the expansion bottle then the coolant level should end up just below the max mark.
Remove the tube and piston and replace the pressure cap.
I did all this with a cold engine, this method may or may not be 100% (if not, repeat with the engine hot, thermostat open) but at least no burnt fingers or mouth.
Good luck
[-] The following 2 users say Thank You to rogera for this post:
  • cancunia, oilyrag
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#2
Having used a similar method, but with a 1 litre White Spirit container, which is large enough to allow hot running, it's good to see  some great recycling going on! 
Not wishing to 'gild the lily' there is a simple addition that can be made to rogera's device. 
This is done at the 'valve cap' on the bulkhead. 
Using a piece of plastic or rubber tube around 2-3 feet long, 3/16th diameter . With the valve cap removed slip the pipe onto the threads. If there is any coolant there simply hold the pipe up and loop it into the sealant container. Fill as normal via the silicone sealant tube with the pipe in place - this will vent out any air and you'll reach the point where the coolant level is too high in the sealant bottle.
Stop filling and lower the additional  tube into a 'catch' bottle. The coolant in the silicone tube will then fall down to below the filler neck, and beyond, down to the correct level.
You will have captured any excess coolant which can be used for top-ups. Swiftly pull the tube off and screw on the valve cap - you'll lose a few cc when you do this, but not via your mouth.
Antifreeze in any quantity is extremely poisonous, causing liver & kidney damage as well as blindness, so best not get any at all in the mouth!! It can be absorbed directly through the membranes in your mouth and throat.
If you want to do the topping up with the engine running you'll need the bigger container as an expansion vessel but be aware that the tube that you fit to the valve cap is on the suction side of the water pump. This means, unless the free end of the tube is submerged in the your new reservoir it will suck in air if you rev the engine, and defeat the 'bleeding' object. At tickover there's no great pull, but if you have a problematic heater matrix blipping the throttle will shift any stuck bubbles and you'll see them if you have a clear pipe.
Thanks for a great post rogera Big Grin
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