My B9 Adaptions

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I kind of missed this section normally I head straight for the B9 section. Any way thanks very much for the help from the forum and the advice/guidance of Zion in getting all these mods done. I bought my B9 as foremost Mountain bike hauler with the added benefit if dump runs and lugging the odd load. It was a facebook market place steal which makes spending a few quid on it very palatable for a 2nd car.


While the berlingo is easy to park, the tinted windows and the bike rack stowed the rear view mirror meh esp in low light. I had a few people creep behind the van while reversing and spook me, on motorways I really have to study the mirror to see what's behind me. So I decided to install rear view camera along with a list of "might as well while I have it apart" jobs that I had on the back burner.

I bought the K7 pro rear cam I really wanted the Auto vox T9, but they don't seem in stock. I didn't want to run wires from to back as this was meant to be a quick job he said

Once I received the cam I offered it around and found a spot that it didn't cover any controls on the dash which was over those awkward round cubbies. I had a quick look to see if someone sold a blanking plate for it but no. A quick look on 3D libraries showed a few but nothing I could use as is. So I whiped up my own in fusion360 along with a matching ball mount printed them in ABS, glued them together, smooth with acetone vapour bath (a first for me) it came out rather nice;
 
   

I could have probably made my own clip in blank, that replaces the black cup part but settled for done vs perfect. If it helps here's a link Blank insert cup file I remixed it and removed the holes if you want to use it with suction mount (since it's friction fit you may want a small hole to help pop it out or use something sticky).

While that was printing I cut up all the electrics and made looms for the next steps (I didn't test any before hand because done vs common sense and it was pouring down outside).

First I tackled the dash and installed my first piece with was an idea I stole from peugeotCitroen2CV's youtube which is to take a feed from the 12v socket bring it down to a more accessible place so in the future and terminating it with a fuse and connector block. Mine now runs down to the drivers foot well and need only 1 screw removed to access it.

   

I end up replacing the wire as when I cut the OEM 12v cable it was much thicker so I decided to err on the side of caution and swap my cable for a similar AWG wire.

From that new connection block I ran the supply up to the rear view monitor I used their cable but I cut off the 12v plug and their lengthy connectors to use smaller ones.
   
   

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Then I wanted to add some USB sockets to the car, I thought about into the drivers dash cubby which would have been perfect but I didn't want take that many panels off. I spotted some blanking plates by the mirror adjust and figured I could hack those to work plus it was an easy run to my new 12v take off. I bought this but I really wanted something had a lip or at least square. These had a soft rubber sheath which meant they slightly oval, but they kinda sat nicely in the middle of the blanks and I used a dill and a crap file to make it fit. It held pretty firm with friction but I added hot glue to be sure to be sure. I need to cut the divider on the dash to fit the charger through if I wouldn't have needed too if I'd glued them once in the car but it was raining torrents..

   
   
   

It's ok but not super thrilled with those gaps (done not prefect I keep telling myself)

The my attention turned to the rear. I read about forum members adding a rear boot release which I found myself wanting a few times. I bought a flush mount button which means it has to be pushed in fairly deep to avoid accidental triggering I was going to install it in the same location as other users have but I didn't want an extra plug to disconnect on the rear trim (already have one for my load lights) I could use a 4 pin connector but #lazy. Looking at the door there was grommet top right "why not?" so I did

   

I like the location. Out the way and even if you hit it you still need force on the bottom to open the hatch or it clicks closed.

Cont...

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Then I went to install rear camera. It was annoying job where I wanted the camera it fouled the number plate I'm one of those lucky people that never get away with being cheeky. But I really liked the location of the camera I farted about for an hour before I realised I could just move the plate down and remount it with double sided foam tape.

When I took the plate off I realised they'd just drilled and screwed it into the boot and it had started to rust. I cleaned it up, used some acid primer and painted the holes. The camera bracket had double side tape and a slot easy win for my location right though a bolt except that bolt has a washer... cue drilling out the bracket to clear the washer and then a 2nd hole for the camera cable. I drilled the boot, primed and painted the hole fed in the cable. I used black sugru putty (amazing stuff) to make a water tight grommet.

   

While I had the rear handle off I was tempted to sand and repaint it but the mere mention of that idea to the boss and it was clear she didn't approve..

Then I tapped into the rear 12v socket and ran a Ignition live over to the passengers side and fitted it with a fuse and a block connector for the future if needed and to connect the rear view camera.

Since we're at the back a while ago I changed my tow bar electrics plug (which I had relocated to inside the car) to something less bulky, printed a plate mount for it now it's all neat and out the way.
   

Cont..

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I have a home made jet washer, which I recently re-made with a smaller 10L jerry can I wanted to neaten this install up so I decided to chop up all the cables redo them in a more hard-wire fashion. I added a new male barrel connector to the pump, then a panel mounted female connector off to a switch which has fuse place on the 12v+ supply.

   

Here you can see the 12v take off going to the 12v socket, passenger side power block and the jet wash hook up
   
   

And everything back together. I need to shorten the cable from the jetwash to the car but soldering the barrel connector wasn't fun so I'm dodging that now and looped it out the way.

Eagled eye might have spotted I took this chance to add some cargo eyes to the plastic trim to lash the jerry can. I used an M8 bolt, locktight and a large 3cm washer to stop pull through. That panel is pretty hard to pull off I'm sure it'll be fine to stop the can from falling over when full. In a crash I'm hopeful it soak up some energy before it comes loose. Maybe in the future I'll connect those bolts with a metal bar and the bar to the cargo loop/chassis via a strap.

And back to the front where this all started. Before I put the dash back together I took the chance to replace the icky window switches that has gone sticky I tried to clean them up but the soft touch plastic has turned gooy. I bought replacement of amazon its delayed getting things done because there seems to be 2 types (4 and 6 pin)  I wanted to take the dash apart to check then order them which took 3 days.

   
   

Not as neat as a monitor dash or the mirror cam but this whole car is about 'tool not a jewel' and couldn't justify the outlay. My wires were either soldered, crimped or ferruled, I use hot glue on the back of plugs/switches/screws for added strain relief, lock-tight on metal to metal bolts. I try to use electrical tape to keep wires neat zip ties as I was told on smaller cables they can eat into them or break them.

Still planned is to revisit the loading mat I had bought a roll of cheap rubber that stank, in the interim I switched lino but I have a roll of pvc coin mat I'll shape to fit just need the time motivation to do it. I have some of those wide angle mirror dots to pop on which I forgot about today. I want to make a secured tool storage on the other side of the boot, I have an old tool box which I plan to mod to accept a strap which will tie into the cargo points. I bought some unwin rail and the plan was to install it between the cargo points so I could have lots of pick ups but dam those bars are meaty not sure I want them pointing at the rear passengers if the car was rear ended, so I dropped that idea. I'm pretty sure my strut mounts need doing but its not a DIY job for me, my drive is wonky and I hate jacking cars up on it nor do I feel like messing with spring compressors/ceased bolts. Since I'm not 100% sure that's where the knocking comes from on rough roads I'm not keen to throw money at a garage given some of the prices quoted.

Previous changes;
Replaced the front 12volt socket
Tinted the windows
Load and loading area lighting
Sprayed the steel wheels black, put on new hub caps and all weather tyres.
Converted a T4 fiamma rack
Made custom rear trailer board lights for when the kids bikes are on the back
And made my own load liner
Fixed boot handle trim
DIY jet wash/DIY jet wash MK2
And general replacing or fixing missing bits and bobs

[Sol]

Great write up, loving the mods. What's the power unit for the jetwash? (Pump etc)

I really want a 3D printer. The Acetone vapour smoothing is genius!

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I'm enjoying my 3D printer, I'm pretty handy with cad I have a roland CNC which I used to use, I tried resin printing but the parts warp too much. I printed this with a Pursa Mk3 I like being able to fix a problem with out hours of hands on crafting. The Pursa was pricey compared to an Ender but it works out the box (well after you build it) and lots of support. I really wanted something that was turn on a forget vs hours of fettling. I think its almost paid for its self with the odds and ends I've made.

I used this kit Jet wash but I paid £22 for it there similar alternatives. It only runs when spraying vs all the time which is nice. Before that I bought a £80 Worx battery jetwash and that was very troublesome would work maybe 30% of the time

       
       


First attempt was with a big Jerry can and fed the hose through the filler, weighted the hose with some Alu pipe I had. Hot glued the pump to the back of the Jerry can. The jerry can ate up space, plus despite keeping the can open/empty when not used I found the hose was going slimy inside and mould between the Alu pipe and the hose ick  

I remade it with a 10L can, drilled a 2nd hole and used 10mm copper gas pipe as a pick up. Tons of hot glue holds it all together and keep things water tight-ish. Note you really have to use the right diameter pipe/hose or the pump just doesn't pull water. I used copper as I read it has anti bacterial/microbe properties so hopefully wont go funky. The jerry can seal kept falling out so I replaced it with sanitary silicone. I would love to have it run off a Lipo battery which inturn is charge by the car but its a rabbit hole I don't feel like chasing vs ignition live and leaving the car running

The pressure is that of a garden hose, fine for washing bikes, boots and the occasional icy carpark shower. The added bonus is if there is a zombie apocalypse I can fill it with petrol and we have a home made flame thrower...

[Sol]

Maybe cascade a second pump (same kit) and it may crank the pressure up? Like the concept though.

You could fit a leisure battery in the back to run the pump and charge it when required? I have an AGM jumper pack that is pretty beefy and that can be charged from the rear 12v socket while driving.

Could be worth a shot. Handy for flat battery issues too.