Coolant system overhaul

[notsofast]

Well, I've connected one end, but the other end won't go on fully - it gets to about 3-4mm from the 'stop', at which point the hose is deformed on one side (it bulges out over the connector). I'm feeling a bit defeated tbh - I've never done anything so frustratingly difficult. Maybe I should reconnect the original hoses, cut them near the bulkhead and use a connector (if one is available in that size). I'm even thinking it might've been easier to change the heater matrix......

[oilyrag]

Just cut a suitable length of one of the original hoses, which you know will fit, and use that as the 'bridge'. 
This leaves the bulkhead connector in place, a full length hose and a part length one. If anyone wants to re-instate the heater they just need to use a suitable connector on the cut hose.

[notsofast]

Thanks. Yes that seems like a good idea. I didn't have time for any lunch today and that might have been affecting my mood earlier.  At least today I have changed the air filter and put in the new thermostat - I know they're simple jobs but still a first for me.  It's all a learning curve.

[notsofast]

Local parts stockists said they don't have stocks of hose connectors in the right size, so this morning I've had another go at the new hose. I heated it with nearly boiling water and added more washing up liquid to the male connection point (I didn't add any inside the hose due to the nearly boiling water - thought it might just wash it off).

Anyway, it went on much more easily, as far as the small stop 'bump' near the base of the connection. I'm assuming this is on far enough? (The end of the male connector does have a rim that's slightly wider than the rest of it).  I don't think I can pull it on any further, though it does look as if an existing hose on an adjacent connection might have gone on further. See pic below:

   

The hose in the middle is the new hose - you can just make out the stop 'bump' facing the camera by the end of the hose. The hose to the left is an adjacent hose/connector. The hose underneath is the old heater hose.

[oilyrag]

Ideally you'll want the clip like the one shown fitted - with a small portion of the end beyond the clip. You'll probably get away with a Jubilee clip there, as they tend to be narrower, but I wouldn't trust an original type spring clip.

[notsofast]

Yes I intend to use a jubilee clip. If I have time I might try and reheat it and push it on again, though time isn't really on my side.

I started to get the new rad out for refitting, and have noticed in a couple of places the outlets are different. On this pic showing the new and old rads side by side (old on top), the drain plug hole on the new rad is blocked (I guess they changed the design):

   

Do I punch or cut through the block somehow, or just manage without a drain plug (and drain coolant in future by disconnecting the bottom rad hose)?  I don't know if the drain plug on the old rad will fit.

Then on this pic (old rad on right), the new rad has a hole below the top outlet, whereas the old rad has a kind of blanking plug - I assume I just transfer the plug from old to new (assuming they're the same thread size)?:

   

[oilyrag]

The lower drain on mine is blanked & I'd leave it alone. The top one can be used as a bleed point when cold filling once transferred.

[notsofast]

OK, thanks. Got to go to Machine Mart now to get more new tools (need bigger allan key for undoing that old rad blanking plug).  I know right at the start of this thread you said to allow a bit more time than I thought, but I never envisioned this would take days (and daily shopping runs)!  Hopefully getting close to the home straight now.

[notsofast]

Progress report. The rad and expansion tank are in position and connected up to all the hoses. Haven't yet reconnected the air intake pipe/duct (spent 3 hours yesterday running around getting tools etc.).

This evening I've been trying to carefully route the new heater-bypass hose so that it doesn't go anywhere near any exhaust pipes. It's not easy to do this without the hose kinking a bit and touching the paintwork of the bulkhead - but does this matter? i.e. will kinks smooth out when hot coolant is inside them, and will the paintwork be OK? It might be easier to avoid this by taking the hose up fairly high, though I'm also trying to avoid this so that a big air bubble doesn't form inside the hose.

[oilyrag]

The kink will probably get worse as the pipe warms up - it's not a big issue and any problem might only show itself on a very hot day - it's no different to a blocked heater matrix. The touching on the bulhead could eventually eat through the hose - add a piece of domestic foam pipe insulation fixed with tie-wraps. I have insulated my heater pipes entirely with this in order to get more heat to the matrix and a warmer car.
Set the system up with the pipe low down to purge air and if needs be then fix it in the raised position.