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Where to get new dpf from
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02-10-2022, 05:59 PM
Has anyone bought a replacement Dpf for their B9 van?
I’m getting a dashboard message coming up every time I’m at motorway speeds saying risk of particle filter blocking. I’ve tried all the tricks to get it to regenerate, but never knowing when it’s going to actually do it is hard. My 2012 Van is on 150,000 miles and thinking is it worth replacing it with a new one and getting the Bsi reset.
Has anyone bought one and recommend where to get them from, plenty online but if anyone can point me anywhere specific that would be a great help.
Thinking of replacing it and taking it to my local mechanic to fit it
And I’ll do the reset with my lexia kit.
Cheers
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Have you tried redex dpf cleaner. I put one in every now and again. Hard to know if it s working. I’ve had no problems but who knows. Give it a try see if it helps.
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03-10-2022, 10:34 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-10-2022, 10:43 AM by Sol.)
This message comes up automatically after 100k miles. whether the DPF is actually blocked, or not. They can be cleaned out, no need to replace. Its only a mesh filter, albeit fine steel mesh. I'd take it off, block one end, fill with a 10% caustic soda solution and leave for a few hours, then drain carefully into a bucket and run a hose through it until it comes out clear. Caustic is the only thing that will dissolve carbon, be careful, it eats eyes and burns skin. Goggles and rubber gloves are a must. Stir with a wooden stick and pour carefully in, have the DPF upside down (against the normal flow direction)
Mr Muscle oven cleaner will work (same stuff) but will be easier to get caustic soda crystals and mix yourself as Mr Muscle foam is too small an amount to do a DPF. I've done turbos with it very effectively but it would be a dear way of doing the DPF. Caustic soda can be had from amazon or supermarkets. Sodium Hydroxide is its Sunday name, a big bottle of drain cleaner based on the same chemical, also will work very well.
At a push, if you want to not use chemicals, jet washing it backwards should work, but may be a bit slow to shift it all and a bit messy. Maybe bung with cloth and gaffer tape where the jet nozzle goes in and use just enough pressure?
Then use DiagBox to tell it you have replaced the DPF under the replacement parts menu.
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(03-10-2022, 10:34 AM)Zion Wrote: This message comes up automatically after 100k miles. whether the DPF is actually blocked, or not. They can be cleaned out, no need to replace. Its only a mesh filter, albeit fine steel mesh. I'd take it off, block one end, fill with a 10% caustic soda solution and leave for a few hours, then drain carefully into a bucket and run a hose through it until it comes out clear. Caustic is the only thing that will dissolve carbon, be careful, it eats eyes and skin. Goggles and rubber gloves are a must.
Mr Muscle oven cleaner will work (same stuff) but will be easier to get caustic soda crystals and mix yourself as Mr Muscle foam is too small an amount to do a DPF.
Then use DiagBox to tell it you have replaced the DPF under the replacement parts menu.
Thanks Zion,
Is there a guide on how to remove the dpf filter to clean it? I’ve searched but can’t really find anything.
If I can remove it I will definitely your the caustic soda solution.
That’s good to know about the 100k thing. I’ve noticed the fans running when I turn the engine off a few times so I wonder if it’s been trying to do a regen, but I’ve just not noticed. Although the other day when driving I did notice the engine bog down for a moment and the tone changed, wonder if that was the beginning of the process?
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03-10-2022, 10:51 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-10-2022, 12:06 PM by Sol.)
Yep, it turns on all electrical loads and the idle gets a bit hunty, also the fans will run like buggery if you stop it in the middle of a regen. Anyway, it knows the mileage so will alert you whether it is full of soot / oil ash, or not.
The DPF should be a big drum shaped object just below the turbo, leading to the exhaust. Its the first thing after the turbo, before the main downpipe joins the exhaust under the engine. Should have a flange joining it to the turbo hot side outlet. The other end will go to the exhaust pipe.
Attached is the FAP removal document:
B9 FAP Removal.pdf (Size: 227.27 KB / Downloads: 30)
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(03-10-2022, 10:51 AM)Zion Wrote: Yep, it turns on all electrical loads and the idle gets a bit hunty, also the fans will run like buggery if you stop it in the middle of a regen. Anyway, it knows the mileage so will alert you whether it is full of soot / oil ash, or not.
The DPF should be a big drum shaped object just below the turbo, leading to the exhaust. Its the first thing after the turbo, before the main downpipe joins the exhaust under the engine.
Perfect thank you!
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03-10-2022, 12:07 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-10-2022, 12:08 PM by Sol.)
(03-10-2022, 10:52 AM)Mjd84 Wrote: (03-10-2022, 10:51 AM)Zion Wrote: Yep, it turns on all electrical loads and the idle gets a bit hunty, also the fans will run like buggery if you stop it in the middle of a regen. Anyway, it knows the mileage so will alert you whether it is full of soot / oil ash, or not.
The DPF should be a big drum shaped object just below the turbo, leading to the exhaust. Its the first thing after the turbo, before the main downpipe joins the exhaust under the engine.
Perfect thank you!
Added the procedure document in the post #5 above.
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• Mjd84
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