Locking the flywheel/crankshaft

[eternaloptimist]

In the middle of a timing belt and water pump change on a late Mk2 1.6HDi. 

Given the amount of oil around the crank pulley I've decided to fit a new crank oil seal. Easy enough, but I can't get the locking pin into the flywheel to keep the crank in place whilst I take the pulley off to get to the oil seal - the flexi section of the exhaust is in the way. Any neat ways around this?

Ancillary question - how important is to to pin the fuel pump? I've read it takes 12 rotations of the crank to get all the timing pins aligned, but for the life of me, I can't seem to get it right. Doesn't help that I can't see the end of the fuel pump pulley.

[geoff]

Not sure what year a later MK2 is but on my '07 hdi I always disconnect the flexi joint to get better access, a quick and easy solution.

Locking pin - can be a nuisance, on mine I ground / filed a decent chamfer on the end of the pin which helps a lot.

You will definitely need to pin the pump for the belt installation.  

Cannot see ?  just jack up the engine a bit higher to get a better view.

Early six segment pulleys pin at 5 o clock position
Later three segment pulleys pin at 12 o clock postion

Try a chamfer on the pump locking pin for ease of entry / helps to find the position as the pulley starts moving over the hole.

Having difficulty .... always good to stop for half an hour for a cuppa and a sit down as you'll come back refreshed and usually the job simply gets done without any fuss. .... Lol !

[brodfather11]

If its a 1.6 with a fuel rail then you dont need to pin the pump.

[Sol]

Yep, is it a B9 or an M59, 1.9D or HDi? You posted in the M59 section so it could be either if it is an M59.

B9 only come as HDi and have an HP rail so no pump locking required as @brodfather11 says. It's a pressure pump but not a rotary injection pump like the old diesels. HDi injector timing is electronic.

[eternaloptimist]

It's a late M59 1.6HDi. Registered Jan 2008. I said 1.6 HDi in my first post and described it as a late Mk2.

Anyhow, some progress. I know it's important to pin the diesel pump on a non high pressure system, but I've seen conflicting reports on the need to do it for this engine. After a bit more work, I've found my pump is one tooth advanced, that's why I couldn't pin it. No problem, not critical, easy to fix.

However, the flywheel's a different matter. After a bit more fiddling, I managed to get the pin over the top of the exhaust flexi and started looking for the locking hole. When the crank and cam are pinned, the pin for the flywheel doesn't fit. Laying under the car with one finger pressing on the end of the pin as I contort myself to move the ratchet with my right arm, there are two holes where the pin fits, 180 deg apart. Neither line up with the pin positions on the crank pulley, they're about 10 to 15 degrees off.

I know I can ignore the flywheel pin for the cam belt change alone, but I'll lose the pinning of the crank when I take the crank timing belt pulley off to replace the worn crank oil seal.

If I pin the crank and cam and remove the belt and water pump, then unpin the crank, turn it back approx 10 to 15 degrees to pin it at the flywheel, remove the crank woodruff and pulley, do the seal, refit woodruff, pulley, remove the flywheel pin then turn the crank back so it's pinned, I'm not going to have a problem am I?

What am I missing?

[Sol]

No idea. But yeah the M59 isn't a mk2, the B9 is a mk2. The M59 is just a facelift of the M49, all else is the same on both vehicles. The B9 is a completely different vehicle which is why we were confused.

And of course you did put 1.6 HDi, I see that now. Why the pump position would matter on an HDi, I have no idea.

[jj9]

1.  Pin the flywheel.
   
2.  Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt then screw back in finger tight.
   
3.  Unpin the flywheel and rotate the engine Forwards with the crankshaft pulley bolt until you can inert the timing pins.
   
4.  Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt (it won't be that tight as you cracked it off at #2)
   
5.  Fit the new oil seal & timing belt.
   
6.  Remove timing pins & rotate engine Forwards until you can inert flywheel locking pin.
   
7.  Tighten crankshaft pulley bolt.
   
8.  Unpin flywheel.
   
9.  Turn engine over until you can insert the timing pin to check you got it right.
   
10.  Job done.
    

.

[eternaloptimist]

I'd already removed the crank pulley using an impact gun when I was stripping it down to do the belts.


I pinned the crank and cam, then removed the crank pulley, did the oil seal and put the crank pulley back on. The timing pin went straight back in. I'll lock the flywheel when I torque the crank pulley back up tomorrow. Ran out of daylight today.

[jj9]

You've got it cracked.

.

[eternaloptimist]

All done bar making sure the cooling system is properly bled. I found the bleeder on the thermostat housing - is that it or is there another?

Should have made a better mental note of how the aux belt tensioner was oriented; that took a bit of head scratching.

Oil and a full set of filters next, then I'll be on the lookout for some better tyres than the budgets that are fitted. And maybe some alloys. Possibly. After that, I want to make sure the seal around the Modutop is seated properly. It's sitting better than it did, but I'd rather it didn't lift and fly off at motorway speeds. The previous owner did about 3k miles a year pottering around.